I’d avoid 1-2 nimh or alkaline cell drivers as they have a hard time supplying the 1.4A you want to feed the Nichia. A single lithium cell driver in the range of 1-1.5A in a 10440, 14500, 16350, or 18650 host would work. I took the stock driver and led out of a TF Mini 01 and installed a Nichia and 1.4A Nanjig 101AK and tir optic. I did have to file both the optic and the driver a little to fit and insulate the driver from the pill but it only took an hour or so. It makes for a much nicer tint and better run time.
Well, there’s others I would choose, but most are for XM-L. Also, as was said once here, the 219 on a 10mm star is not a good choice, due to the thickness of the star and the “too close” proximity of the wires to the led. Better off on a 16mm or 20mm star, depending on the size of the host. That means reflowing and if that’s out, it leaves something like an XP-G or XP-G2, that is already on a 16mm or 20mm star.
I think on my first soldering attempt I’ll wish I had a two foot diameter star.
With 2’ I’d solder my left foot to my right. 16mm is a nice size. It heats easily but still has some room. Use flux.
You should also check out the build threads on AA Minimags as someone could make you a pill that you could add a driver to. A 3 x AA would be ideal for nimhs and a 2 x AA could use 14500 and spacer. The mod can be done without doing any cutting or boring but later you could try that too. It just needs to have the ano filed from the end of the battery tube.
How about a c8 upgrade with op xp-g reflector? Nice sized pill so its easier to solder, use a 1.4a two group nanjg driver from fasttech, it’ll also take a 20mm star which I think you can get the nichia’s on to save reflowing.
I like it when my flashlights can have a good output on Li-ions but also run (but with much lower output) on primaries when in need. The 7135-based Nanjg drivers have good modes, high PWM and are robust, but can't use primaries (With the use of the 101AK the mini can't run on cr123 primaries anymore). There are a few boost drivers for primaries (like that TF-mini driver you removed, and in my experience this one) that don't fry on Li-ions, they just go on direct drive in the range of 1.4-2A, with the high Vf of the Nichia it will be close to 1.4A.
If they do, I think the TF-3T6 would be awesome. I think it drives each LED under 1.5A and you can use all kinds of battery configurations (1-3 18650, 4 AA Nimh, 3 4/3af’s, etc).
It would give a flood of high CRI light with some decent throw too. Does anyone know the answer to my above question?
That’s kind of what I was thinking…if I got an LED the size of a cantaloupe and used a manhole cover for a substrate I might have a chance. I tried working with a 16 mm pill a few nights ago and discovered my eyes are just not up to it anymore. My fingers still burn real good though.
Looked at data sheets and it looks like the 219 is 3.5mm square, while the xml is 5mm square. So it seems xml reflectors would work fine. I wonder if the spacer in the following build would put the led to low in a typical xml reflector:
Pretty sure OL uses the same XML tir for XML and Nichia mods. You just get a tighter beam with the smaller die Nichia.
This is what i decided on to build my first nichia flashlight.
http://www.intl-outdoor.com/edc-18650-flashlight-host-p-535.html
I converted a Trustfire TR-801 to Nichia and it worked great. Here is the link to my thread on it. It's a solid host, compact, and easy to mod with a great pill.
I’ve got a non working 7G1, needs a new driver. I could send you to practice your surgery skills. I don’t think it has reverse polarity protection (that’s how I killed it)
Review by gunga here
You can have it, Crelant sent me a new one (great warranty) even though I told them what I did. Not sure why I kept it, I haven’t got flashlight surgery skills
PM sent.
Are you still typing? I didn’t get anything yet
I was in the middle of it and Mr. FedEx delivered a brand new Niteye Eye40 to my door.
Ohhhhh niiiiiiiiiice. Pm replied 
After I crack open the Crelant 7G1 CarpentryHero is sending me, I’ll need you guys to help me select a new driver. I’ll have to decide whether to give it a Nichia or try one of those XP-G2 neutrals.
The tint on the Nichia is great but it has a higher Vf which is a disadvantage with linear drivers. The output start to drop sooner. An XP-G2 R5 3D has much better output, a lower Vf, can tolerate a higher drive current, or run longer before dimming at the same drive current as the Nichia but because it’s not as hi CRI, the tint is more apparent. I like it but then I also like 1D tints. What I don’t like are the 3C tints that appear greenish to me. If you are going to push the output, I’d reccommend the XP-G2. If not, then go with the Nichia. My $.02.