nice set of lights u got there. almost starting to look like some sorta light show. add some more lights with different color tints, point it in several directions and it will be one haha
that it’s difficult to set up a bunch of lights, get em pointed in the right direction and get pics before they start heating up. Some of those (most of em) are heavily modded and heat up pretty quick in spite of the amount of copper I added and such. The 2 skinny L2P based lights (M3 and K3) I had to stick in a box to hold em as the wind was wanting to knock em over onto the asphalt. Being in a hurry is why the focus is off, should have been paying more attention, or should have used a better camera…not like I don’t have one.
Start with a cooler bin and the de-dome will be more to your liking. The benefit to that is that the most powerful lights are up there in the cool range, so de-doming tames the blue a bit and leaves em with plenty of punch.
I’m wondering why you used the cells at 4.05V instead of 4.2V? I have the PD’s, but can’t tell you if they really make a difference…but then my lights are using 7135 chips so they might be limited by the driver.
Got any beam shots? Love seeing the light in action as I don’t really understand lux readings and such, not having a meter of my own.
it was $150 for a fully modded light - he bought 40 from a group buy that was going and they are still available on the marketplace (i think they are 160 now)
i just ordered one from vinh. reason why i asked was because i thought your numbers could have been higher and was gonna suggest vinh. but i guess you did buy from him.
so 360 huh……thats still impressive, i was kinda hoping expecting more though since i hear high standards and mad hype.
Very nice shots ryan. You can never go overkill with thermal paste (unless you use too much). Better paste = better performance.
I like that you limited it to 6.5A, but if you felt brave I don’t think it would hurt to ramp it up direct drive to 8A.
A very usable beam with a very reasonable current. Run times are probably cut in half or less since you’ve nearly doubled the drive current though.
FWIW here are the stock run times which are around 3-3.5A
As for the thermal paste, I even considered using Coolaboratory Liquid Pro or Ultra, which has liquid metal for incredible thermal conductivity, but the gallium inside them eats away the aluminium, so I didn’t risk it. Plus, it’s very expensive and down the road of diminishing returns.
I wish I had a trimpot to adjust the sense resistor but I don’t think any are designed to handle the high current in such a small package. I may go direct drive, I’m not sure.
get one i took a walk with my 6.5a k40 last night - gets on on levels 4-6 in about 5-10 minutes… dial down to level 2/3 to cool off for 5 minutes and then back to TURBO!!!
Ha, it would be very cool to have an infinitely vairable ring, not just six steps.
Max would have a notch and a current of 8A (scary) and would run for a few minutes and the use would tone it down a little. That would be swell.
To those who have a modded K40, after how many seconds can you tell that the unit is heating up at level 6? For me, it takes about 10-12 seconds to sense the slightest temperature change just below the dial.
Is this easy for you? As long as you have a thermometer (contact or non contact is fine) and a timer you can graph it on excel pretty easy - or just post the raw numbers and either I or someone else can chuck them in a graph for you if you’re feeling a bit tired.
Yeah, I’ll have to visit my dad’s university but I’m pretty sure they have a FLIR, or a knockoff. I get to use the scopes in there all day, so it’s pretty fun.