Oh, don't worry... the Booms will throw by sheer output and the beam is beautiful, but I don't like laser spots.
I ignored the Download wiring method... seems overcomplicated and I was skeptical of it. Techjunkie's was much simpler. (to me)
Rich
Hmm, looks like I'll be using the Booms :)
Yeah, I just posted on Download's thread trying to understand more about it, and I think I got it now. You just have to be careful about voltage. I'm just not too excited about getting batteries that can handle the type of current that Techjunkie's method needs. Hmm...we'll see.
By the way, does Digi-key sell LEDs as well?
EDIT: Maybe I'll just get 3 C-size Tenergys. I just wasn't looking forward to getting another charger that can fit them, but that seems like an easy way to go.
OMFG that's one sweet shiny thingy! Two thumbs up from here.
I'd call it The Neutralizer.
But you do understand than this thread is worthless without an outdoor beamshot, do you?
I had to use four C's-4.8V-to get full current. So get at least that many.
I'm very skeptical on Download's wiring-sounds like a good way to smoke something. I'm pretty good at wiring and I'm afraid I'd bitch the works on that one.
I'd do the Techjunkie method and be done with it. The way it is done-with each LED neg. going to each emitter ensures the same current levels go to each LED. And don't worry about the amps, because the thing is so damn bright you'd be using it on low or medium anyway!
****
I know the pain of adopting another battery type, but then I got the TK70 with a charger and the Mag mod floodgates opened then after that was out of the way.
Rich
You win! Neutralizer it is.
If I decide to go with XP-Gs instead of XM-Ls, do you think that the Boom for the XR-E could work?
http://www.ledil.fi/node/2/p/114
EDIT: Well, they are special order for Digikey anyways, so scratch that.
XRE would not work and it'd look fugly 'cause the XPG hole is so much smaller.
Rich
Well, I just ordered all of the parts for this for a Mag 3C. Hopefully mine will turn out 1/10th as good as yours.
Keep us posted! Remember you'll need 4.8V to get everything out of it. That's why I used a 4C host. With a 3C you'd have to grind out the tailcap and use four sub-C's. A totally sucky job without a machine shop, but that's for rich guys.
Rich
Do you know why it requires 4.8v? I plan on just running the 3 x XML each with their own current regulators (one MCU controlling all of them). Or is just due to voltage sag with that much current that I would need more voltage?
I think with the current that 3 cells just couldn't quite do it. It will still work with 3 cells and it's still damn bright, but I wanted to push it to the limit on high. With 3 cells I only got ~4A on high-with the fourth cell it jumped up to ~10A.
Rich
Hey Rich,
Did you have to modify the Booms to get them to to mount on the stars without having them touch the solder connections? I got the parts this week, and the base of the reflector covers most of the solder connection on the XM-L star, so I didn't know what to do. And did you just use the adhesive tape that came on the Booms?
- Jon
OK.... here's what I did, in steps: The very first thing: I ordered a couple extras so when I ruined one, I had a spare and the ruined one I used for fit testing. ALSO! Like any reflector, they pick up dust, etc. insanely. Installing these was the last thing I did before putting the lens in. Otherwise it's too much handling and they will get scratched, fingerprinted and dusty.
1) Took the adhesive tape off and discarded.
2) Carefully scraped the chrome off the bottom of the reflector for better adhesion to the star. You will see where the bottom is recessed-that goes over your + and - connections. When the star is wired, you must keep the connection as flat as possible for clearance. Chrome, having been removed, won't potentially short.
3) See the four "nubs" on the reflector? Cut 'em off or file them down so your wiring will clear and it's much easier on centering and clearing the heatsink-assuming you're using the PTS-2. Carefully! Please!
4) Make sure all of your wiring has been routed so it will not interfere. That's why I chop the nubs.
5) Except for your two solder connections on the star, scrape/sand the other pads so they are perfectly flat so the reflector doesn't ride up on them and rock and roll.
6) OK, now get some Locktite crazy glue gel in the blue bottle. GEL ONLY! Not regular runny crazy glue! When you're ready to put the reflectors in, squeeze a small amount onto a file card, paper, whatever.
7) Critical! Use something with a fine point and pick up a small dot (gel will cling) and dab it onto the reflector bottom on each side of the emitter hole on the outside circumference of the reflector only. Don't put the glue anywhere near the emitter hole! Then the glue won't squeeze far enough to get near the emitter and ruin it.
8) This is where you've gotta be good-With two fingers, lower the reflector onto the star as centered as possible. Don't get any glue on the emitter-it will instantaneously and permanently cloud the dome, yes, even faster than that. You have about 1-2 seconds before the now spread out glue dries-so work fast and get it centered! Of course make sure the hex on the reflector is aligned correctly per my pictures.
9) Hold the reflector down with pressure for a couple of minutes and that's it.
***If you don't get it centered before the glue dries, you can still pop it off, scrape the dried glue from the star and reflector, and start over.
Let me know how you make out, and how about some pics?
Usual disclaimer applies... anything I say about ruining, screwing up or emitter dome destruction, don't ask me how I found those out! <g>
Rich
Damn, that was very detailed - thanks! I'm glad I bought 6 reflectors then! This will be a bit harder than I thought it would be. I probably won't get this done for a while, I still need the slave 7135 boards and I don't think there's a source for those in the US.
Ah! Wait just a minute. All the slave boards are standard Shiningbeam or Illumination Supply 8X7135 drivers with all the components removed except the 7135's.
Illumination Supply usually has loose 7135's also, so go for it. F**k long waits from China-not necessary!
Ah, I was hoping there were cheaper versions without the MCU. I'll just order some more from IlluminationSupply. Damn, I just placed an order too but was one driver short.
Well I ordered the last two 2.8 amp drivers from Illumination Supply, but also got some 1.4 amp drivers so I can sandwich two together. They don't have an MCU on them, just the 7135's, so I don't have to pull anything off.
I also ordered 4 x Tenergy Centura C LSD batteries, but have a 3C mag. Think these can handle 8.4 amps? I'm not sure why, but I was originally thinking the amps are spread out among the cells. But 8.4 amps is a lot for a single cell. I'm beginning to think I should just go the Poorman's route with Li-Ion and a resistor. Because like you said, you had to use 4 Tenergy cells probably due to the voltage sag at that many amps, and I wonder how much excess voltage that creates that needs to be burned off by the 7135's.
Also, how did you sand the bezel again? No chemical I have will take off the anodizing, so I hit it with a wire wheel but I think it was too abrasive. Sanding it with 400 grit is now taking off the etched lettering :(
Inserted comments into your post:
Well I ordered the last two 2.8 amp drivers from Illumination Supply, but also got some 1.4 amp drivers so I can sandwich two together. They don't have an MCU on them, just the 7135's, so I don't have to pull anything off.
You're better off with solder-wicking the components off-remember you need eight 7135's per LED. And any more than 3-4 drivers stacked an you won't fit them in the light.
I also ordered 4 x Tenergy Centura C LSD batteries, but have a 3C mag. Think these can handle 8.4 amps? I'm not sure why, but I was originally thinking the amps are spread out among the cells. But 8.4 amps is a lot for a single cell.
I got the white Tenergy premium C's. Do yourself a favor-just run over to Amazon and get a 4C and have it over. With 3 C's it'll still work, but you won't get the current.
I'm beginning to think I should just go the Poorman's route with Li-Ion and a resistor. Because like you said, you had to use 4 Tenergy cells probably due to the voltage sag at that many amps, and I wonder how much excess voltage that creates that needs to be burned off by the 7135's.
Well, it'd be 4.8V. Fresh 18650 would be 4.2. So with sag I don't think you have to worry at all-all of mine are fine. With a resistor that'd be a PIA with heat and you wouldn't have a low or med mode, which you will want. Wait'll you see how bright it gets! I've got really poor night vision and I run mine on low when dog walking, whatever.
Also, how did you sand the bezel again? No chemical I have will take off the anodizing, so I hit it with a wire wheel but I think it was too abrasive. Sanding it with 400 grit is now taking off the etched lettering :(
File! Very carefully... and then I sanded to desired smoothness. The etched lettering in the metal isn't done like that now. Mine was from an old light. The new ones are etched into the anodizing, I think, 'cause it got lost on subsequent lights I did.
This is a complicated light, so don't lose faith or patience! If you do, walk and come back to it later.
To bed-had surgery on a pinched ulnar nerve today.
Rich
First of all, awesome light! Really like reading up on people's mods and all they went through to do it.
I have a question. How would runtime compare with a similarly built Mag on 2 lithium ions (say both 4000mAh cells)? Why go NiMh? Just so it's safer? I'm guessing there is a tradeoff of being a safer light but with less runtime. Guess you could just as easily go with AA -> C (or D) adapters instead of buying the C or D cells.
By the way, was that you that turned your flashlight on the other night? I saw a bright light in the sky and thought maybe an alien spaceship was landing until I realized that it was probably you since you don't live that far away from me.
Garry
Rich, once again, thanks! I think I'm going to try to find cells that can handle 8.4 amps. Tenergy has Sub C cells (which I don't know anything about), but it seems as though they can handle a lot more current.
Garry, you should not have much more current than the forward voltage of your LED's. Having two li-ions would burn up the drivers.