Great pictures Werner, thank you! They are very helpful. I’m happy that it’s a solid pill. Also it’s great that the driver can be resistor modded.
Were you able to get to the switch easily? I plan on just doing the simple standard mods (spring bypass on driver & switch, XML2 on Noctigon, resistor mod). Hopefully I’ll get mine soon.
OK I have received mine. They pull a little more than the S7 they pulled 650ma these pull 850. However I don’t know why but I had an XML U2 1C lying around so a simple change. The thing is it now pulls 2.8amp!
What I don’t understand I why.
Marc.
I forgot to say. I only have one mode. High.
Marc.
You have maybe shorten the negative wire some where and put it in direct drive.
That’s what I though but it was such a simple swap I can’t see any short. I guess it can’t harm it at 2.8amp.
Marc.
If you only have one mode when there should be five, it does sound like you have a short somewhere.
Mine arrived today as well and I pretty much agree with all the comments so far. Internally it’s a step up in quality compared to the other budget S5s out there, so it’s a bargain at $3. The metal switch housing is very unusual at this price, but I particularly dislike that sharp tail cap. Luckily all body parts and internals are fully interchangeable with the ‘other’ S5s so you can mix-n-match. I now have the best of both worlds - threaded pill for better heat sinking and a more comfortable tail cap that also tail stands a lot better.
If, like presterjohn, you dislike the thin pencil beam of the XP-E, a simple but effective mod is to put some Blenderm tape over the lens. This acts as a diffuser and gives a nicer beam for indoor use.
Before:
After:
Nice tip Lancman! I have a few TIR lenses that I got from LEDDNA. I am hoping they fit.
I agree but I don’t know where. However without notice all my modes are back again, but now it seems to be pulling between 1 and 1.2a on high .5a on med and .25 on low. This is with an XML.
overall its a bargain when you compare it to some of the crap at that end of the price range. I.e some of the new sk68s.
Marc.
What centering ring did you use for the XML Marc? Could you possibly post a pic?
If you got one mode with very high amperage earlier, pretty sure you have bypassed the driver altogether. That may have happened if you created a short on the negative side of the emitter, current goes straight to the body and you get your direct drive, one mode. Limited to 2.8A because of the thin wires.
Now somehow the short is gone (stray wire or something?) your driver gets back its function.
@pulsar. That’s what must have happened I guess. What I have done, now that its all working, is put a little superglue on the bare wires where they are soldered on to the led.
@tristan. At first I used the white ring that comes with the reflector, but I think it steals some lumens so I removed it and if you are careful you will get it centred perfectly. Remember the reflector is plastic so no probs with shorts. I’m sorry I don’t have an hosting account so no pics.
Marc.
No worries, thanks Marc. If you want to increase current you could do a resistor mod. If you want DD (while also keeping all the modes) you can just bridge across one of the resistors. I would not suggest it though without a cooper star.
To be honest at 1200ma it’s as high as i wish to go as it only has a plastic reflector. i don’t want to melt it.
as it happens the reflector is perfect for an xml if you remove the white ring. very nice beam as well.
Marc.
I didn’t even think about the plastic reflector…that’s a good point.
I got mine yesterday. It seems quite nice for what it is, a small fixed focus 18650 light with a small LED for low cost and for throw. $3 would be a nice price for an aluminum battery carrying case, if it had not works at all. Thanks Werner for showing the solid pill. The head and tail threads are the same size, and they clean up nicely with oil and friction, because they fit well. From Werner’s last picture, it looks that the current can be increased easily, by shorting across the row of resistors. With the solid pill and with some added heat sink compound behind the star, it looks like it could take more current, in spite of its light weight. It is slimmer and lighter than an SK-68, but longer. I measure 120 x 23.7 mm.
I went direct drive for a while, 2.8A. The head gets hot quickly, which is a good thing, just don’t forget the plastic reflector.
Marc.
The plastic reflector is my main disappointment, it limits this host from being made into a hotrod.
You could change it for an aluminium one from fastech.
Marc.
..or make it into a triple :-) ..