What smacks of snooty BS: Pseudo-Elite ‘purists’ coin everybody else ‘barbarians’, yet they ‘customize’ (bastardize) the original deal whichever way they want and yet point out how the ‘barbarians’ are inherently inferior to them even when a superior unadulterated product kicks its a.
Anybody can ‘customize’ anything in a Monster Garage-guise to facilitate updated coolness. It’s real hard though to leave it classically original, flawed in function, inferior in modern-day performance, and still stand by its originality regardless of facts. That’s why classic-car connoisseurs think those guys are the true barbarians and not the rest of us commoner purveyors of budget ‘junk’. For afterall we’re not expected to know better. But those guys? No free pass. 
Ya know, I’m kinda feeling pretty snooty right now with my unadulterated classic Z2. I should join CPF and lay it out. :bigsmile:
Gentleman , i was about to type 2 pager and decided to ask a simple question. Have any of you mounted both lights t a semi or fully Auto rifle? For the record i do own both Surefire and Solar-force lights. I like them both and each has its purpose. Whomever can answer the first question will tell you exactly what each light is designed to achieve and its inherent flaws.
Own both if your into lights..IMHO
Sold it on ebay for $57 a couple of weeks ago.
if you have another shoot me a PM
That was my last C2
I’m not taking sides here as I said earlier, nothing wrong with the SolarForce.
Diferent stroke for diferent folks.
I will have to have my 2 pennies worth. All I can say is by the pictures post on this forum and the other site, Sloarforce look better quality, but I will only be able to tell is if I ever get them in my hand. That Will never happen one is too expensive and the other model range confuses me.
The DD lights 504 and 502 with the charger and battery had excellent quality and the Ultrafire lights I bought from Manafont had excellent quality but the treads were not that good but I only paid $4 for them.
If you want a work light a Ultrafire will do as good as a Surefire and if I lose it then I have only lost $5. With Surefire it's mostly Hype, say that a light is worth $200 enough times then people will believe it and it becomes true.
If you got the money then buy it, if not Ultrafire it waiting
I’ll toss this bit of info into the mix: http://www.surefire.com/company_history
SureFire started the whole “weapon light” business. The idea was / is; a dedicated, failure proof light for tactical use. [yes everyone already knows this…] Surefire developed the “shockproof” drop-in to withstand weapon recoil. I doubt that SolarForce or XXXFire lights would hold up for long as dedicated weapon lights. Surefure builds the lights to very strict tolerances and have a lifetime warranty, that is the major reason for the cost of a SureFire. OTOH I will say SureFire prices are based on “professional” use by govt. agencies and we’ve all read about $250 hammers and $10,000 toilets for the military……
That said, if someone had a SureFire for sale cheap, I’d buy it, but I wouldn’t pay retail for one. I don’t need a “weapon light” no matter how cool it looks or works.
Because of this PM, Sparky:
You are about as scary as the ball of string is to my cat. Happy Thanksgiving !
WRT the statement that one light is more durable than the next in firearm use, this is also nonsense.
The durability comes from two things - the dropin design, and the shock-absorbing Z32 bezel (with foam ring.)
Since none of the C2s pictured are sporting the Z32, that's out.
Surefire C2 it’s like owning the green lantern ring! gotta have to to represent CPF!
I’m the OP. I didn’t realize the history here between the different websites and the history of the Surefire C2. Years ago, I owned a 1956 Corvette. It was ahead of its time back then, but today it would be woefully outdated. Today, you couldn’t pay me to drive that car every day, but it and all the old Vettes have a cult-like following… to each his own.
Interestingly, I’m a novice, but I was considering a Solar Force L2M before reading this thread. Now, I think I’ll order it. This has been a fun and educational thread.
No worries. I was actually surprised and a bit flattered that you did as I sometimes wonder if people read my dribble.
Looks like the subject of the C2 has a polarizing effect on folks here. All I can say is that if you’ve never had one then don’t knock it until you have. If you had one and don’t anymore then that’s because it wasn’t for you. I’m not here to try to convince you that you’ve made a bad decision to sell it. If you’re a believer then there’s nothing that anyone can say to make us decide to sell ours. My first C2 was assembled from parts and I had paid less than even a used one sells for to assemble it. I guess I had to see what all the hoopla was about. I sold it in a moment of weakness for almost twice what I paid to put it together and almost immediately regretted it. I then assembled the bored one and the L5 was part of a package deal that was too good to pass up.
My Solarforces are nice, but, there’s something about them that just isn’t “it” about them. You can blindfold me, hand me either a 6P or an L2 and I would probably be able to correctly identify which is which just based on the feel of screwing on the bezel. Except for the G2/3, that holds true of almost the entire Surefire line.
Like most things in life, there’s not one single product out there that will appeal to everyone. There will be people who own them for their own reasons and there are people who shun them for their own reasons. This discussion just shows who’s in which camp.
Add to that, they are “water resistant” only, not waterproof and have an extended button to accidently activate!
You know, I take pride in America and American products, but sheesh! This is almost totally worthless by the loosest of today’s standards!
With regards to weapon mounting a Surefire instead of a Solarforce, that’s BS. Back when Solarforce L2s had two-piece bodies that might be true, but, not anymore. The host is nothing more than an aluminum tube to hold onto the important parts like the drop-in, batteries, and tail cap. The only argument that a Surefire might be better comes from the argument that you shouldn’t use 18650s in a weapon light which means that the bored hosts aren’t needed which means that the body walls are thicker which means that you can clamp down harder on them to prevent them from moving under recoil. This means that an L2 would be just as reliable as a 6P when used for this reason. I would never use a C2 nor a L2T for this purpose due to the reduction in contact area on the mount holding it to the weapon.
The light mounted to my shotgun is an L2 with a Neoseikan Malkoff clone drop-in because its my one and only light with a reverse-clicky. I chose this configuration because I don’t want to accidentally short stroke the button in the heat of the moment and have the light turn off right when I need it the most like what might happen with a forward-clicky. With a reverse-clicky it won’t turn on unless I’ve fully pressed on the button so I know there will be light when I need it.
C2= Real, quality, HA TYPE III. It’s just awesome. So much so that I’ll say it again. Knurling, —top notch.
Good luck finding a specimen like the c2, other than perhaps the Armytek Predator, another awesome light.
The C2 host, if you have doubts; get one. A lot of companies offer HA type III, but is it really? To me, the C2 is REAL HA type III.
I suppose Model-Ts do look nice, and CDs have better sound quality than MP3 files.
But…well, you know where I’m going with this.
…
EDIT: Ah, funny! I just noticed that the HD2010 got one vote in that thread. I’m surprised that member hasn’t been banned already!
The real Troll here is ChicagoX
Sorry, anyone by the name of “fartybum” just can’t be taken seriously.