I mean, who cares?
In the end removing the ballast is the best thing because they waste energy and it's just another thing to fail.
In the end everyone will make their own decision but for me using "ballast compatible" is just a stopgap. And if you're worried about breaking the law because of circuit rewiring, then you probably shouldn't be doing it.
The funny thing about the text from A Plus for me is "without the need for LED starter". WTH is an LED starter?
> who cares?
I do, that’s why I asked what they mean.
One of 20 kinds of electronic ballast is a problem?
What’s the problem? Fail to work? Catch on fire?
Some explanation would help.
Well I don't know what THEIR answer is, but most issues I've seen with LED replacements is that they are so efficient that they do not provide enough load for the driver circuit to operate properly. You see this a lot with dimmers.
It's better to just get rid of the ballast. If you really prefer not to do that, then you'll need to just try it out. Make sure what you buy is UL certified - it should at least be safe in that case.
Hey, Hank. Very glad to got your comments and you care is right. We have the list of the electronic ballasts, which are compatible and which are not. So, we will check we you, or our agent will check your electronic ballast with your, first. Then give you the final replacement solution.
If it is in the compatible range, you just use the LED tube replace your fluorescent lamp.
If not in, you have to do the rewire work for the LED tube light replacement.
Hi, taylorphotographic. Good morning!
Very glad to got your comments.
Who cares? WE CARE!
Yes, you are right. Use the compatible LED tube light is a stopgap at present, which is designed for help people who not as professional as you to save some time and money to hire someone to do the rewire job for them. (remove the ballast will be better, will save more and lower fail)
About the LED starter, not sure you maybe call it in another name. If you really do not know it, you need keep learning, check the following chart from GE Lighting - LED tube light replacement instruction,
Interesting. None of the LED replacements I've done have used any kind of "starter" or other external electronic device. I wired mine direct from incoming power leads to tombstone connectors.
I'm guessing this device is used in situations where it's easy to exchange the starter can than rewire the chassis.
Honestly I haven't even seen a fluorescent starter in decades, but I suppose they are still around somewhere. My house was built in the 70's and no "starters" on any of the fluorescent fixtures.
PT
which points to a site that’s been one of the old reliable sources on lighting — including LEDs — since Usenet was the Internet:
http://donklipstein.com/
Yeah I get what they are I just haven't run into a fixture that has them in a very long time, and I hadn't seen them used on LEDs at all because LEDs don't need "warmed up". I also get that if you have an existing fixture that incorporates these it might be easier to exchange the can rather than rebuild the fixture but fortunately I haven't found myself in that situation.
Some industrial lighting brands will specialize in ballast-free fixtures for T8 LED tubes. If you need to install about 10 fixtures, you can contact the fixture manufacturer directly, and many companies offer volume discounts.
However, I suspect that such a purchase would not be cheap, and you might consider purchasing the most basic fixture frame (e.g., a garage light or factory light) and replacing the tombstone bracket in it with a non-split design. Non-shunt tombstone brackets can be purchased separately on e-commerce sites, often at low prices.