Updated OP, now modded!
A thrower with some decent CRI and tint for a change…
Updated OP, now modded!
A thrower with some decent CRI and tint for a change…
That’s awesome R86, nice mod! I have some of those emitters on the way, and I will give them a go in a thrower for sure.
5A to the emitter. :bigsmile: Congratulations!
So…….I have one of those coming….for some reason I want 6+ amps for my T5 5C1
So…….I have one of those coming….for some reason I want 6+ amps for my T5 5C1
nice job r86, I cant wait to get some of these high cri emitters although my edc’s will be getting them before my thrower builds, there are other plans for those. …
nice mod, 5A high CRI light , everything should be high CRI, and it can be, now the choice in emitter tint is better than it has ever been.
Thanks for the nice comments!
Thanks, and I agree that basically all emitters should have higher CRI than what is typical.
btw, Im not sure of the definition of “high-cri”. I have seen others have used it lately in describing the 80+ CRI emitters as high-cri.
Sure, they are higher than 65, 70,75, and 80 typical. But I believe, that High-CRI is 90+. Or am I wrong?
This page seems to have focus on high-CRI LED lighting, and everything is above 90.
Either way, I agree with your point!
Racer, I just got done installing the same 5 amp driver in my X6S, but I don’t think it is giving me 5 amps. My tail cap current is only ~1.6A on high, and there is a significant delay in changing modes.
Do you have the same delay? And do you mind checking tail cap current? Thanks
Just put in 2 cells at 4+ volt. 2,84A on the tail (which is higher than I though) I can change modes quickly..
Figures. This is the second 5 amp driver from them I have bought. The first doesn’t even work, I had to open a dispute today for that one.
Their 19mm 3 amp driver though seems to work great with a resistor mod.
Nice to know about the 3 amp driver.
When that is said, I have no plans on buying more from lck-led than necessary. Several driver issues (the supposedly 3 mode in my light is a 5 mode), wrong emitter info, wrong package info on emitters, sometimes long response time in order to solve a simple case. etc..
Good luck on your journey to high output! :)
Just a quick update.
I have changed the emitter to T6 3B some time back. I wanted more output, and I wanted to try another emitter. I still wanted to be within the NW range, and have 75 CRI instead of going CW.
This light have a bit limited spill, due to having a very deep reflector, but not as wide as some of the more known throwers. That makes it more of a midrange thrower. CRI is not that important for a thrower. I just wanted to try it. I changed emitter because I wanted a light that was a bit more "harsh" on the eyes compared to the 5B1.
I also fiddled a bit with the driver, tested a few resistors, but was not able to get considerably higher ouput. I believe I saw 5,2A at best. I do hope that others still give it a shot to try and increase output on the driver. Would be sweet if it could do more.
As for beamshots I said I should get back to.
This light was included in this thread, but auto white balance was used:
Experiment MOD: Small Sun ZY-T13 with MT-G2 (now with beamshots and various measurements)
After emitter change it was also included in a beamshot comparison in this thread:
The 5 amp driver you used. Do you know if its the same looking as there 3 amp driver or has it got the larger copper coil thingy on it? It sounds like your not a fan but I could be wrong.
The 5amp driver I used is the one with the larger coil thingy. :)
The driver is good. Although I would not mind seeing even more amps.. J) And I would prefer the 3 mode version.
As a thrower, I think the beam is good too. I just prefer a bit wider spill. Im quite sold on my 3x XP-G2 SRK (with 2 de-domed emitters). Gives me more light, slightly more white light, and considerably more spill without limiting my far distance vision. Sure the, uniqefire out throws it, but not by a lot..
The XP-G2 SRK with mixed emitters is just better allround.
I guess I have started to become picky and need more of everything in order to get my fix.. ;)
As for me changing around on emitters. Nothing unusual for me.. :p
its very similar to the 20mm 3a ld-29? driver, just it has a big donging coil on it and a 22mm contact board.
same slow mode changing that bugged me till I got used to it.
I feel its a very nice driver and as racer86 said elsewhere, its the default goto small 5a driver, nice mode spread, I don’t detect any whine with it and I think but am not 100% that its supposed to be current controlled on all modes.
I’ll have to see if the fluke can detect a pwm frequency or use my usual test of shining it on a running engines pulleys.
Some of the 3 amp drivers from that family I have used whine and some dont. Doesnt matter what I do with the earth. Touch wood I have not had one fail yet. In the early days I believe they had a bad reputation from some suppliers.
As mentioned, my 5A driver have a bit PWM whine on low and medium. But its not that much, and I rarely use low and medium on that light.. 0:)
I received a UniqueFire UF-X6S today.
It was on sale for $19.50 at Tomtop.
But i guess it can really drain your 18650s to death when in series…
Probably goes on and on even below 3 Volts or something…?
It’s my first >1S light.
Never really tested the stock driver.
High chance it will continue to drain the the cells down and below 2,5v. If you are using the stock driver. I would try and find out by using protected Panasonic batteries and do several measurements when their voltage is down to 3v/6v and you continue to use the light.