tangsfire hd2010

[wight]

Try switching to thick leads. Stock leads (on any DMM regardless of brand/model) will do nothing but muddy the water.

Here is some information:

Test leads for your Multimeter

Well I went out today and got me some MM plugs and some heavier wire to make some test leads .. We all know that thinner and lower quality leads don't handle high AMPs well , don't we ? [ well you do now ] , I've mentioned it often ... Anyhow , I got some thicker wire = lower resistance with higher AMPs .. Wow , the first light I had to test was my L2 with the Manafont 3 mode XM-L in it [ of course ] Previously it had tested at 3.8A , hmmm , do you want to know how it tested with the new l…

So you need thicker leads for tailcap readings... where do you buy them?

Using my Excel XL830L cheapie multimeter, just tried measuring some tailcap readings and get consistently lower readings. Leads too thin? I’m using some leads that labels itself as MASTECH 1000V CAT III 10A, bought it at local supermarket. Would a Fluke test lead be good? I’m expecting some people to reply DIY own test leads (btw can’t find any good guide to DIY thick leads), but I’m wondering if there are ready-made around.

I hooked a bunch of meters into the same circuit.

I got spoiled. It used to be, many years ago, that Volt Meters were expensive and not very accurate. Now that they are cheap I can’t stop buying them. They seem like such a good deal in comparison. Anyway, I rounded up a quite a few and hooked them up to see how their readings compared to each other. Since the first time I opened one of these cheaper meters up, I noticed that they seem to be built around a “DMM on a chip” That is, all the important stuff in on one I.C. with a few other parts han…

You can also look into braiding the springs, but you won’t get real measurements without heavy gauge DMM wires.

If you’d like help with your driver post clear pictures of it, front and back. Post the markings on anything which is not legible in the picture.