Also, a quick review on the 818.
I saw a few threads on BLF where people were complaining about them being beat up when they got them. Mine on the other hand was perfect when i got it. No nicks, chips, fingerprints, metal shavings, nothing. Haven’t had any problems. All of the threads were actually lubed too.
For $38 shipped to me in three days, I’m not complaining at all.
Keygos M13a : Parachord, 2 cell, 18650, 26650 on sale $25.27 free shipping.
I can’t quite tell what the emitter is, I can tell you its a decent quality c8 probably driven at 1.4a, the driver is one many use, the light has a brass pill (easy to solder too) ok it has an orange peel reflector, I bet the beam is lovely and smooth.
If you want to mod it, its a damm fine base, if its not working its pretty easy to repair it given the internals.
Whichever, you have got a good light there. Welcome by the way, good to have you here.
looks like a cree xte . looks like sku 20217 or 20221 at KD
Awesome. I have thought about modding it in the future. Ill have to research what exactly I could do to it.
It does work though, I just wanted a little information on it for future reference if I decided to mod it. I have actually never had any problems with it, been dropped many of times. I use it mainly for working on cars, so even with the hours at a time and drops it gets on a daily basis, it hasn’t let me down yet. Probably the best $15 investment I’ve made yet.
Thanks for replying here, I’ll be reading up more on other threads. Hopefully soon I’ll beable to offer some information myself.
Winner winner. Yep thats it. Looks like its gone up in price since I bought mine. It’s the 5 mode model.
Thanks!
No worries, glad its doing you good, I use a c8 myself, if you want more runtime in a similar sized light, a keygos m10 is well worth a look. Think same dimensions but a thicker body tube which feels better in the hand, plus with an xm-l its plenty floody, something I feel is usefull under a vehicle.
I’m guessing this one would be more of a thrower than my 818?
You can loose the blinkies….
http://www.intl-outdoor.com/amc71358-5mode-circuit-board-nanjg-105c-p-216.html
This is a higher current version of the same board, ignore that, check the mode list, count the stars from the right, those stars, you solder to the outer ring to select the mode group. Just hang fire though till someone confirms/corrects this with the right info. 
So mine right now is a 5 mode, Low, med, high, strobe, sos. But the first star isn’t soldered to the outter ring? none of them are. I might not be understanding what you were saying completely.
Id definitely like to make it just low med high
This review may or may not help, it does describe the process, you can reverse whatever you do with either a solder sucker or braid.
Basically, I’d want at least a 25w iron, for preference, I use a 40w iron, I want to get the heat in quick, make the joint and get out quick, less chance of heat build up.
I would suggest follow the guide, be sure you can remove the solder joint and try it. I do think someone said you can use a lead pencil to test, ie draw a line from star to ground ring. If it does what you want, solder if not, wipe away and try again. When you find the right group, solder the connection to make it good.
Ok that makes sense now.
Would you happen to have a light that you did this to? Id just like to see a picture of the finished product of a board like this where someone changed it to a different star.
I don’t, yet, I have recieved a rook of these drivers an one is going in a c8 next week hopefully, I’ll post back in here. As I say, I’m not 100% as your driver has the stars but nothing on the battery side of the board, my boards have extra chips but should work the same. I’ll let you know hopefully tomorrow unless my c8 is a crappy version, then I’ll have to swap the board and emitter into my other pill, which does fit.
This is what I’ll be fitting
http://www.intl-outdoor.com/amc71356-5mode-circuit-board-nanjg-105c-p-536.html
I’ll first be trying third star from right to left, I’ll report back.
Ok great. Ill be sure to check back.
If you end up making a whole nother thread Ill just look out for that.
I’ll probably do both, but I’ll fire back to here to help out, I do think all the nanjg boards with stars have a similar setting method, so you should be right.
Thanks for all of your help!
Update on the different modes for this board.
I soldered the second star from the right, or third from the left, to the outside ring. And BAM, three modes. Low, Med, High.
Im happy with it now. One thing seems to have changed though, it didn’t used to be “Next” mode memory, and now it is. Doesn’t bother me too much but I’ll have to get used to it. Kind of weird that changing the mode selection changed its memory too. Or maybe I’m just crazy and it always was next mode memory. I dunno.
Either way, it works.
Thanks for the tip!
I found the same thing, third from left = 3 mode, I did find it needs to be in for a few seconds for the memory to stick. I actually built the board up from 6*7135 to 8*7135, which was one of the reasons to get these boards - see if I can add chips without destroying them. I also built up a 5*7135 ak47 driver to suit a light that needed to have a one sided board, that works too. Very productive night for me :bigsmile:
Edit, I think it has to be off for a few seconds too for the mode to stick, you might be switching on/off too quickly for mode selection to lock.
Good deal!
Yeah I made sure I was keeping the light off long enough, it still seems to be next mode memory. Oh we’ll, it doesn’t bother me much. Im just glad that you pointed out I can change up the modes. Now if only I could do this to my skyray, I haven’t pulled that one apart at all yet to see if its possible