Depends on country, here many houses gets all 3 phases and stoves often can run on anything from 1 to3 phases (They work best on 3). The outlets and light circuits are distributed on the 3 phases. We typically have 10-16A fuses on a phase, UK often has 32A fuses and requires a fuse in each plug.
Yes in the UK we use a rather unique system of “ring mains” to distribute the power, rather than individually fused radial connections. This means at any point on the ring you can draw up to 30A (typically from two 13A sockets) Because the ring connection to the mains has a large fuse or trip, each appliance needs it’s own fuse inside it’s plug, usually either 13A or 5A (used to be 1A fuses also, but scarce these days). Fuses were all very well back in the day, but nowadays miniature circuit breakers back at the consumer unit, each feeding an individual radially connected outlet are so much better, and the norm everywhere else in Europe.
It’s a horrendous system really, so many ways invisible faults could develop, in particular if one of the ring conductors becomes incomplete. and the potential for overloading it is always there. Often the first sign is e.g. a socket becoming noticeably hot, or e.g. lamps dimming when a kettle is turned one elsewhere in the house.
Our plugs are also a dreadful design, and learning to re-wire one properly is something many never manage to learn.
UK BS1363A and BS1362 plugs and fuses are the safest in the world, i fit 50 a week
I agree. Having a fuse in the plug protects the downstream flex or other simple appliances (e.g. table lamps) and the design of the plug itself is very good. The fact that it’s polarized is nice, plus the ground-opened shutters are very reliable and work well (unlike the fiddly shutters in Schuko outlets). Lastly, the fact that the outlet does not have a recess for the plug means the outlet itself can be quite “shallow” and I image it’d be easier to fit in the standard round 35mm deep wall boxes used here in Greece for switches and outlets.
Where do I get them? How much do they cost? And what is their physical dimensions? Has their capacity been tested by anyone on the BLF? I own 3 versions of 26650’s - 3200, 4000 & 5000. The 5000’s are way fatter than the 3200’s and barely fit in my L6. :>)
Good thinking. You are right they seem to have identical spec’s. So now I have a twofer. And I will be ready when I buy my European villa!!! I wouldn’t have thought of that.
Also let’s Liitokala’s Ebay factory store off the hook. I wrote three times and never received a reply. Not great customer service. I held off giving them a rating until I could work out a solution. Now I can give them a rating.
sorry if this has been asked before, but I’m wondering when performing a nor test does the ma matter. I know that at 1000ma it will charge at 1amp and discharge at .5amp and would obviously be faster than the 500ma selection but my question is when selecting 1000ma charge will it make the test more/less accurate than the 500ma selection?
hope that makes sense
thankyou
Depends on the battery.
Check my battery reviews, some batteries are nearly the same at any discharge current, at least up to a very high value, other are much more sensitive to discharge current:
thanks for your answer HKJ, unfortunately, those links aren’t working for me?
/Klarus%20LiR16340%20700mAh%20(Red)-Capacity.png)
/Vapcell%20INR18650%202000mAh%20(Black)-Capacity.png)
I own mostly Xtar batteries, 16340, 18350, 18650 and 26650 and I find that the rate does effect the NOR test. I can’t give you a hard number but I would say by 10%.
Received my first Lii-500’s some time ago.
Heats quite alot when charging Eneloops.
Factory-charged Eneloops:
The ones on the 1 & 4 slots took about 300-400mah.
Ones on the 2+3 took over 700mah…
I think it has issues of stopping the charge in time and thus heats the batteries…
Can you be more specific? What temperature are you talking about?
It’s not unusual for NiMH cells to get pretty warm when charging at 1A, in my experience. And the fact that all channels are pretty close together on Lii-500 may result in an even greater heat accumulation.
I’ve seen temps of around 40C when charging NiMH on my Miboxer which has more room between channels.
What was their voltage once removed from the charger?
I got 54°Celcius on middle ones.
Too bad I did not measure terminating voltage.
Hmmmm…. When I am charging Eneloops on my Lii 500 they barely get warm. All slots are equal. I charge AA’s at 1000ma. AAA’s at 500 ma.
I am no expert… but something does not sound right about the temps you are getting.
Recently bite the bullet and ordered a (Colaier branded) Lii-500 device, its analyzing functions will come in handy. 
Just a little question regarding the Nor test: is cell capacity displayed onscreen just after the discharge is done? I say this because I'd find irksome having to wait for it to fully charge the cell(s) afterward (which I may not want anyway).
Thanks and cheers :-D
Yes it does. At that point the NOR icon stops flashing on and off and is now on steady during the charge cycle.
In my experience it has been a good charger. Just be sure to keep it away from windows and direct summer sunlight as it can cause damage to the display.