Test/Review of Charger Opus BT-C3100 software V2 update

Another weird quirk.

Put an 18650 in to perform “Quick Test”. Displayed 80. Ok no problem. Took the battery out. Wanted to use the same slot to charge the same battery seeing as it was empty. Couldn’t change modes on that slot with the battery out. Put the battery in, couldn’t change modes still. Just performed another quick test. I did press Mode right after putting the battery in but nothing happens.

Did another Quick Test followed by charge attempt on a different slot, same thing. Seems like the Quick Test locks that bay in until you turn the unit off and on again.

I have kind of noticed those kinds of things. I think there is a certain amount of time that may have to pass before that slot is usable again. What ever it is, it is longer than my patience will allow for. I usually just reset. That brings me to my request. I wish there was a momentary power off button so that I could quickly and easily reset the charger. As it is now, I unplug and replug the power connector. With wear and tear, I can see that becoming an issue in the future.

I LOVE this charger. It is awesome!
I also have the MAHA C9000 that only charges NiMH. I paid $50 for it at the time and was glad to get it. But the OPUS at only $36 has way more functionality with its 4 independent slots and Li-Ion capability that it makes the C9000 look very expensive.

Ok that’s interesting. Yes indeed it does work if you select the slot individually. But from other modes, if you put a battery in and then press mode, it knows you are referring to that slot without having to specifically select it with SLOT. So if it’s already in DISCHARGE TEST and you put a battery in, you can just change it with mode.

But from Quick Test, you need to use the SLOT button to change it.

Thanks, that makes sense I guess. It adds an extra step to press SLOT but perhaps makes it easier to do the quick test. Considering there is very low repeatability and accuracy for Quick Test, probably would’ve been better to give it lower priority and allow mode changes without SLOT. In my humble opinion!

My 2nd unit seems fine. Had an old blue ultra fire 14500
discharge 700mAh. I was surprised.

Hi everybody,

First, please excuse my very bad English, this is not my native langage and I can’t write it easyly.

I just bought this charger and I don’t understand one thing :

Opus tells you can charge at 2 amps if you use the first slot with no other battery in #2 and #3 slots.

I tried to complete the charge of two of my 18650 Li-ion (already charged at about 50%) at 2 amps. Each time the charging current begins at 2A but decrease very quickly 1800…1600…1400…900… from 2000mA to ~500 mA in less than 5 minutes…

I’d like to know if my brand new charger is defective ? May be because my 18650 are crappy “ultrafire 4000 mAh” ?

Thanks !

That sound like a problem with the batteries. If you look at a 2A charge curve, you will see that half the time is spend at less than 2A (Green line is current):

A battery with high internal resistance will have even more time at lower currents.

Thank you HKJ and Gauss163 for this clear explanations.

I did the quick test with one of my 18650 and the result is 215 average (tried all 4 slots). So I think my batteries are in poor condition and this explains why my charger works strangely ? My batteries are about 2 years and about 25 cycles. Stored fully charged (I just read it is not a good idea !).

Well, I think I have now to buy real good new batteries and dispose off this $3 ones !

I have an other question for our specialists :

Is it possible to use our charger with protected cells (the one with the PCB to avoir over charge/discharge) ? I tried to discharge one of mine to check the real available capacity, but it seems that once discharged, the pcb cuts the circuit and the BT-C3100 thinks the battery is removed. So it’s impossible to read the result :frowning:

Same problem if you try to use the “discharge refresh” function…

No way to use advanced functions with protected cells ?

Thanks a lot guys !

I tried discharge with some protected Trustfire and it didn’t work also. I think it’s the protection or the cell itself is causing problems. Always works with quality batteries.

Posting for bladesmith3


photo 1 shows finished
#2 closeup of new opening
#3 the board
#4 the blue arrow points to switch. middle position is 4.35V
#5 the switch is in the middle of the board so the center of the hole is 10mm from the edge. the unit is 145mm long so the center of the hole is 72.5mm from either edge of the back cover.
feel free to ask me any questions.

#6 shows the new charging limit

thanks for the help

Fixed. Thanks for sharing!

so did we ever figure out a great alternative PSU to buy for this charger? I bought on the gearbest GB on July 13, so is it perhaps reasonable to think I’ll get the updated PSU for v2.0?

The PSU issue is the same with both v1 and 2, the difference between v1 and 2 is firmware I believe. There is some difference between Euro and US plugged PSUs (IIRC, Euro was the better one), but neither were ‘good’ as both are underpowered.

Somewhere …a couple have been linked as suggestions. Could be either thread though.

I don’t own this charger…but doesn’t that only work with 26650 batteries in bays 1 and 4? 2A charge is alot…too much for 18650’s?

you can only charge 2 batteries at 2A they must be in slot 1 and slot 4 slots 2 and 3 have to be empty. many 18650 can be charged at 2A. the reason your batteries start at 2A and drop off is the cheap protection circuit and even cheaper batteries. all batteries no matter how well made will drop the charging amps down when approaching full charge.

No, I do not believe that an appropriate, “BLF Approved” PSU was ever settled on. I suspect that many people who care and understand enough to pick one out already have one of considerably larger than necessary capacity. I have no immediate plans to pick out another PSU just for this charger, I have an excess of high current 12v PSUs.

As far as I know, the subject was discussed in the most detail earlier in this thread. I think my post #61 at the top of page 2 is maybe a good place to look as I quote some other relevant posts there.

There are many PSU options at many price points, so the decision is significantly affected by how much you want to spend. (and whether you plan to use the PSU for other things as well!)

EDIT: that said, here is a cheap and potentially low quality / dangerous PSU I selected from eBay based on it’s specifications. It is rated for 10A and we need 10A on only a 20% duty cycle, so that should be fine. It’s got the correct plug already (5.5mm/2.1mm). ~$15-20 is as low as the price on 12v 10A Chinese bricks goes. Make sure it’s center-positive before you plug it up.

For higher quality power on a budget, try and get your hands on a used, first-party (not aftermarket!) 12v Xbox PSU. You’d need to lop the end off and install the correct barrel plug. Or consider a PC PSU as I mentioned in the post I linked to above.

Thanks a lot to Gauss and HKF for those explanations ! After many tests 3 of my Ultrafire are mesured with about………… 300 mAh !!! Only one has 1400 mAh…

I have just ordered 4 panasonic/ncr 3400 mAh and will dispose the Ultrafire at the recycle station !

Thanks guys !

Those ultrafires are about to blow up. Have your video camera ready to watch the 1000` fire. Then post the video.

To blow up ? Are you serious ?