You mean like used on firearms? They’re terrible with resistance, since you have all that wire leading to them too. And they often burn up at high amps.
There are springs that are huge limiters and some that are a little better, but I always bypass if I’m going direct-drive
Yes tactical firearms pressure switch. Knew I never liked them, but with this revelation it confirms that.
Any tips on the best way to solder that switch tab without a melt down.
Was hoping to solder the spring/wire onto that tab first, but then it will be lots more difficult to solder the cap on the end of the spring/wire…?
it’s long exposure to heat that will melt the switch internals. Use some good rosin-core solder, turn your iron up a little hotter than you usually use it, pre-tin the tab and the wire end, and quickly solder it together. Don’t let your iron be on the tab for more than 2-3seconds tops. I wouldn’t bother trying to solder the spring to it, just make sure the wire gets good connection.
Definitely do the brass cap first, or if the spring is long and sturdy enough you may be able to ditch the cap altogether
I am bit confused. Because with 10AWG fat, short cables and 18650GA/HG2 both batteries gave me accurate 9.7xx current draw with my Manker E14.
But when I check My Astrolux SS (Same as Kronos X6) it only gave me 4.1xx current. Some says it draws 4.8xx current.
And i checked my Nitecore MH20GT with Turbo mode it was maximum 3.XXX and never was more than 4/5 current. 
Does anyone know why? What might be went wrong?
Nothing seems wrong to me.
The E14 pulls more because 4 emitters draw more power from a single cell.
The SS/X6 pulls 4.1 on that battery for you, a different battery may get you closer to 4.8amps perhaps (or maybe not, different examples of the same model can give slightly different performance). The visual difference between 4.1 and 4.8amps is almost nothing anyways.
The Nitecore is not a direct-driven light, it’s designed to give a max of 1000 lumens, which takes around 3amps
Oh thanks brother, I did checked with 4 HG2 and 4 GA batteries ON my SS. Got the same result. Must be the model not my batteries.
And about MH20GT so it’s the right current. Smile
BTW I really really like your tail cap lighting. I do enjoy finding it at night easily thanks to your design. Smile
Got the tail cap spring/plunger all bypassed.
Did the 60second mAh test 3 times, and got 5.6-5.7amps…? And looks like its emitter xpl hi is about to go into super nova… How can it now draw more than it did with just a tail mm amp reading of 4.5 I got before…?
Your ammeter probably still has 0.03 ohms or more of resistance. Your bypassed tailcap has more like 0.01 ohms. I have the same XPL HI V2 3B emitter and it hasn’t failed yet running direct drive. It will probably be fine as long as the MCPCB is pressed down and making good thermal contact.
Probably a little late to the party here, but when this question raises, it’s good to see the comparison video that Djozz made;