You’re just now using it for the first time?
TA will send you the extra filters.
Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube / Sphere No math skills needed - Several spheres still available
I generally just lightly blow the top out with some compressed air and it gets it clean enough to bring the readings back in line.
If needed a damp cloth could be used.
It is possible I missed someone, I think I was 1 or 2 people short when I sent out the discs as I could not find the payments.
I do have 2 discs left, although they are from the “old” batch that read a bit differently.
So you will most likely need to do a little trial and error with different orientations on the discs to get the correction factor to the desired ~0.68.
I would just pick a nice stable light or 2 and take measurements before and after the discs are installed until the correction factor is as close to 0.68 as possible. You can add some reflective tape or electrical tape to the inside of the first bend if needed to fine tune the readings.
PM me your address or you can send a small payment to my paypal (it can be .10 cents so I can use the paypal shipping system to print the label).
I have an extra filter you can have, I got three with the tube.
I recommend you get the calibration light set from Maukka so you can know for sure if your lumen sphere is calibrated correctly.
Indeed, this would be ideal.
Thanks… i support maukka calibrated lighs. Mine should be coming soon… i received the measurement report and it indicated lumen, battery type and so on…
I should take the reading when the samsung 30q is fully charged ?
The lights he uses are fairly consistent. Fully charging the batteries is of course a good idea but it should not make a big difference unless the batteries are fairly low.
Yep, Way too many projects coupled with work. I want to use this in all my flashlight reviews. Behind on them as well
If you don’t mind doing math, just take your current readings and multiply by 0.68 until the discs arrive.
Here is an update how TA tube is doing… maukka tested the rot66 nichia and got 3860 lumen… TA tube with calibrated lights reading are 4050, and 3910 lumen. it is doing great…
Did you receive your Maukka light?
What are the two lumen readings 4050 and 3910? Do you have two lights?
Received my TA lumen tube today, and charged everything up (oops, forgot the Q8) to do a test run. Nothing has been modded, or even cleaned up (need to buy some isopropyl alcohol someday). Here are the results from turbo in no particular order if anyone is still checking…
I believe the Thrunite TC20’s protection circuit in the battery is what prevents full turbo. There was a big discussion about it here. Try an unprotected cell or remove the circuit from the stock battery, then the output will jump up.
You can verify your readings by measuring how many amps you get at the tail cap. It should be about 9A iirc. Even at full power you will not get 3800 lumen. About 3200-3300 is the most you can expect.
I’m not familiar with the G35. Has anyone verified that it can do 2000 lumen?
You should also mention if your light is a cool white or a neutral white, because that can also affect the readings. Almost all manufacturers will give the lumen rating for the cool white version. Typically, the neutral white version will always read less.
Good to know about the TC20, thanks Jason. Any experience with the G35, or thoughts on why it’s so poor? I’ve been suspicious of and had some issues with it since I bought it, and it’s the main reason I got the tube.
Now that I have the tube it looks like I’ll need to get a good volt & amp meter also. And then a soldering station. And some kit for flashing firmware. And better battery chargers. And…well, does it ever end?
Sadly, for the wallet; no…… :person_facepalming:
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I would get a decent DMM, clamp style ammeter, good battery charger (or 2 or 3) and a soldering iron. I draw the line at flashing drivers. 
I bought a Yihua 995D soldering station for $90, but the iron is junk. It doesn’t get hot enough. It was supposed to be 80w, but it can’t do what my older Velleman 50w VTSS5U ($26 from Frys Electronics) can do. It could not undo the solder on a big mcpcb at all. My Velleman did it instantly. I even used it to do a video showing how to solder blob some 18650 cells and it just couldn’t get hot like my Velleman. The Velleman would take 2 seconds on an 18650, but the 995D would take 4 or 5. Not good. Anyway, I hope the hot air part of it works properly. I’m skeptical of all these Chinese soldering stations, but the professional units are way above my price range.
Do get solder, brass style tip cleaner, flux (pen style is good), maybe cheap helping hands device. Nothing expensive here.
I have a cheap but good DMM and ammeter. The Aidetek VC97+ which has auto shutoff, beep continuity and soft case for $25. The UNI-T UT210E clamp meter with auto shutoff and case for about $25.
Battery chargers need to match your requirements. Let me know what your needs are and I can recommend something appropriate.
Jason, I bet your iron is ok, the issue is most likely the tips it is using. I used china tips for some time and they were horrible, I had to turn the temperature up way too high to solder anything big.
A few months ago I saw an auction on ebay for some real Hakko tips surplus and got a few. The difference is night and day. I can now run the iron much much cooler and rarely have to turn it up to handle even larger tasks. They also last longer due to not being as hot.
I wish I had invested in them a lot time ago, they are expensive though, usually around $20 per tip but well worth it if you solder regularly.
Dug all of the lights (I think) out of everywhere they were stashed, and tried the batteries I bought for the D4S in the TC20…
Looks like false advertising on the TC20 alright, though it’s still an excellent light no matter what the numbers say. And tried some fresh 30Q in the G35, and it still sucks. Might just sell it to someone looking for a project light.
And it appears to be time to retire all of the old Surefires and the TK15. I remember being Absolutely Amazed at how bright they were compared to anything else I had, and now they’re just meh.
The only chargers I have are a Fenix ARE-C1+ and a Thrunite MCC-4S. They seem to work ok, but something that showed mah taken by the batteries would be nice I think. Thanks for all the other tips!