So I finally got this tube set up ready for the calibration lights.
The 348 reads 39/39/38 (turn on/10sec./30sec.) Maukka numbers are 36.4/36/35.7.
The Convoy reads 636/626/624 on high. Maukkas numbers are (275.4/272.7/271.5) I guess I should do the medium lumens? They are (283/281/279).
Is everybody using the medium setting on the Convoy S2’s?
Also my 348 correction number is .93333333. My correction number for the Convoy is .9731448. Do I just average these two around .95
for all other lights?
I have moved the correction discs to get the closest reading to the calibration lights.
Thanks
Peabody
Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube / Sphere No math skills needed - Several spheres still available
Yes, the measurements are on the medium mode (2/3) as stated on the report.
By the way, my Fenix PD35TAC stock is reading 700/694/690 with a fresh 30Q. It is older and well used but is pretty far from the 900 lm they claim.
Yes, I would average the readings. the tint difference plays a role and also the resolution at the ~35 lumen level is not that great, so don’t take those numbers as iron clad.
You should be able to add a little electrical tape to the inside of the first bend on the tube to correct the readings so you do not have to apply a correction factor.
It could be your fenix light not up to spec or led has got beaten… I measured my brand new fenix tk15 1000 lumen and got 976 lumen @ 5 seconds.
Yes, with a well used light all bets are off, it is impossible to know what the low reading could be from.
Try cleaning the contacts in the light, tail cap and head base, bare threads, springs and battery tube ends. Get some of this stuff…it works! https://www.illumn.com/no-ox-id-a-special-electrical-grade-conductive-grease-2oz.html
Thanks everyone. It takes a Village and this is a nice place to call home. I will check out the
cleaner kawi. Definitely not worried about the low reading.Olight S1 was dead on at 498. Fully charged batteries are a must and we need a digital readout on-board on every light that tells us amp draw and battery voltage. I ain’t got the equipment to check. I will try the black tape but I am happy with these numbers.
Ok remember haikelite mt09r TA ? I got 17050 lumen @ turn on… still amazing… I like the user interface…
I’m surprised the relative difference measured with the two calibration lights are so far off in yours. For me, the two relative difference in variance measured is 0.2%. I think you might want to ensure you are using fully charged batteries and clean the contacts on both the flashlight and batteries and retest just to rule out any possibilities for errors.
If you mostly have cool white lights you can calibrate it for that. If you mostly have neutral white lights you can calibrate it for those.
I found the easiest way to reduce the output a little bit is to put a small piece of matte Scotch tape on the diffuser disc by the sensor.
I set mine up for CW because that is what all my lights are. If I measure a NW I’ll just add 5% to the readings.
For tail cap amp draws, all you need is a $30 UNI-T UT210E clamp meter. That’s the model a lot of BLF folks use due to the big Group Buy back in 2016.
The process looks like this. 
The UT210E can also measure voltage.
Cool. Will have to go for one then. Thanks Jason I just figured Toykeeper could come up with something in-light that could tell us all that while the light is being used.
Hey TA have you tried measuring an Emisar D4 with the optics and lens out to see it the output measured increases slightly?
I do not have a D4 to test myself but I have done this many times in the past with other lights.
The glass lens I find makes a minimal difference in OTF lumens as long as it is reasonably good quality.
Different optics can have a fairly large change in OTF lumens depending on a lot of factors.
The bezel is also something that can effect the lumen readings a fair amount. It totally depends how much of the optic it covers.
I made a few custom S2+ Triples at one point where I de-shrouded the optics so the bezel did not cover it up and the output jumped around 10% on average.
In other lights, I have seen as much as 15-20% or more improvement from the removal of the bezel. Usually quads that have a lot of optic right at the edge for the bezel to cover up.
Hi Ace, I like the tube. Nice bit of work there.
Calibration lights test:
Maukka S2+: 288.9
TA tube S2+: 297
Maukka 348: 53.4
TA tube 348: 58 mostly. Once or twice 54.
The 348 isn’t consistent. Was getting 58, but then I cycled the switch a few times and it said 54. A few switch cycles later and it went back to 58. Staying 58 now. So… %9 deviation just from the switch. Who knows where it was when Maukka did the test. /fail calibration light.
Strange yours is so far out, all the tolerances must of lined up just wrong in your case.
If you flip the correction discs around in different directions you should be able to get it closer I would think.
The s2+ is only 3% out. The 348 can’t be trusted anyway. Well, idk if it can or not.
True, it is possible the switch is the issue if it changes when you click it.
Could’ve been tailcap tightness or any number of factors. Seems consistent at the moment.
Ok, I messed around with the position of the light meter, its orientation and how far it is in the tube, and also the non glued section of the tube, I pulled that out slightly, and we’re within a couple lumens on both lights now. Close enough for gov’t work.
Edit: tailcap tightness on the 348 doesn’t affect the numbers.