Texas_Ace MT09R Modding thread, 20k+ lumens, 80CRI, can start fires? Yes please.

actually the output power will be a bit more as also the voltage drop is smaller
The reason is what I also said on the HaikeLite Fake MOSFET post is that there are not only static losses on a FET
if you get into PWM of like 60 or 80% you switch that MOSFET about 20000 times per second
while the switch is very fast it has a very short time where the FET acts as a resistor while still a good amount of current flows through it

There are different ways to dertermine how much the switching power loss is but one is Gate Charge
SIR800, 404 and the Infineon FETs are all good on the DC loss
the DC resistance is very low compared to other components

usually the bigger the active area of a FET is the higher the gate charge, but there are constantly enhancements between different MOSFET generations

the original FET TA used has also 41nC so more switching and DC losses, but the FETS we use are already high end looking on their specs
bad FETs have 100 or more nC gate charge

on the driver design we also make our FET slower than it could be with the 47 Ohm resistor
and the Attiny has fairly low current drive capability compared to proper MOSFET gate drivers that can peak at a few amperes

You always forget when bringing this up that the infineon FET was not used around here until after these lights were finished. The SIR800 was the best FET for the job since Arrow was out of the sir404 at the time.

I do not regret using the Sir800 at all. I recently upgraded one of my lights with it while swapping LEDā€™s and built another light with it and both were within the same margin for error that all the other MT09Rā€™s were. No noticeable power increase in the real world.

Sure it is better on paper and it is now my go to FET but there are just too many factors for the FET to play a noticeable role in the real world with these lights.

^

I think Lexel was merely answering my question. I certainly have no doubt you chose the best FET for the situation and the time. I'm just curious about this FET from the stand point of future mods I may personally do.

Yeah, no worries, just pointing out that things were different when I did these mods.

my driver spring looks brass, the carrier springs look silver

So i just completed bypassing all my carrier springs with 20AWG, using x4 VTC5A flat tops, did a 35s run on max output and my stock FET is still working! 20AWG in driver spring and all carrier springs

Yeah, not every FET will fail, just some of them. The risk is just high enough that unless you are comfortable replacing the FET it is not worth modding the rest of the light.

Although this discussion would fit better in the other MT09R thread I think since those are the people that would be interested in these results?

I know, i got lucky! i was actually willing to change the FET if this one fried but it survived, are you talking about the freeme thread?

Thanks, almost pulled the trigger, will buy a D18 instead.

Its common that chineese companies source parts from not authorized dealers

They ignore your warning about faked parts to save a bit cost now on production,
I think in the long run they will loose money ase they loose customers

Are Chinese factories ā€œforcedā€ to buy Chinese made parts because itā€™s cost prohibitive for them to import them?

Then the local made ā€œcloneā€ versions are close, but the tolerances, specs and overall quality are a bit lacking compared to the original design?

This is what Iā€™ve been hearing.

It is not so much as ā€œforcedā€ to use local parts as it is made extremely difficult to import parts from other countries. Generally involving a hope and a prayer that the package can slip through customs. I have had to personally send some components to china on a few occasions and it was not cheap or easy (the shipping alone was around $150 for one of them for a part order worth around $300).

So manufactures generally go out of their way to use locally sourced parts for understandable reasons.

Even if they agree to import something at first, they will generally switch to a local supplier after the first batch, so now I just try to find the best locally sourced part possible and donā€™t even bother importing unless truly required.

Generally the manufacture thinks they order genuine parts as well, been dealing with this a lot recently where the supplier flat out lies to the manufacture and sends fake or the wrong part.

the MT09R is a hit and miss, in my case i got lucky and got a good one, my MT09R will destroy a D18 in both lumens and candelas easily

Fireflies had no problem ordering from Arrow.com
Payed import tax in china about 20%

But then some employee says hey this chineese shop got also those parts and cheaper
problem is the cheaper stores in China have mostly copied or faked parts, shops with the original imported parts are often more expensive as if they import themselves

I understand, but if itā€™s a hit or mis, Iā€™m not taking any chances.

@Texas_Ace

Next month once the bank account refreshes Iā€™m planning on buying an MT09R and really like the idea of swapping out the 70.2 emitters for some high cri and better tint options.

Can I buy the emitters directly from you?
If not, where is a good place to buy XHP70.2 high bin/CRI emitters?
Would I have to modify a base XHP35 MT09R (non xhp70.2) in order for it to run XHP70.2ā€™s? (Iā€™m assuming it would require your updated driver?)

Iā€™m finally getting into modding so Iā€™m going to ask a LOT of questions beginningā€¦. NOW lol :person_facepalming:

First I would not even bother trying to convert the XHP35 mt09R to the XHP70.2. It is just not worth the hassle. Better off just getting an XHP70.2 version and selling the XHP35.

You can get the high CRI LEDā€™s from a number of places but in your case since you are not in the USA KD is the best option I am going to guess. They have some 80cri 4000k LEDā€™s that are pretty nice.

Thank you!

How to buy Texas_Ace MT09R

I sold out of the hand made drivers a long time ago.

You can get the factory made MT09R and upgrade the FET on the driver and the LEDā€™s to be like the the ones I made before though. You can PM me if you want me to do this for you.