Opps, sorry missed that is the above post.
Tom got most of this.
According to TK bistro is actually compatible with a tiny85, she just hasn’t worked out the fuses for it, she said the ones Tom is using in narsil should work in theory though.
Far as mounting the 85 on the 17mm, it will indeed mount if you bend the pins, there is just not room for full sized 85 pads, it takes up the entire board if I put them on there.
I have no idea what ESR is, I have not taken the time to look it up yet. It has something to do with the specs on the capacitor and someone mentioned that you can use a normal capacitor with a resistor to get the same results. I am guessing it is some kind of internal resistance. Either way, the other pads were needed to jump traces so they are there regardless.
The picture with the traces should be live, I will have to check.
C2 is the same as normal from it’s position and purpose. It is just now pulling double duty as the output cap for the LDO as well. As such the size needs to be increased to ~10uf and since we use those as the C1 anyways it makes sense to use the same 10uF in both C1 and C2. This was suggested by DEL earlier in this thread IIRC.
The OTC is still in the same place but the name was switched to “switch” (forgot to note that) as these will mostly be used as e-switch drivers.
Ah, ok. Was confused because in the OSHPark listing is where the parts list is for these, and it says "C2: 0.1 uF", but your posts above says to increase it to 10 uF.
Silly me - ok, of course I can follow the tracing in post #381 -- ?? got confused 
Sorry, I forgot to update that part of the oshpark listing, too hard to keep track of that and the thread here so I put the first focus here and update oshpark when I have time and think about it.
The OP is where all the latest info is.
Hi TA, just build my first TA-17mm drivers, and they are working really fine. I liked the modes that you developed in Toykeeper’s BISTRO.
Just one note. Using your BISTRO version for the firmware and a 22k resistor for the R1, the voltage reading of the drivers are 0,5 volts lower.
In one of the drivers I replaced the 22k resistor with a 19.1k 0805 one (I don’t have a 0603) and the voltage reading is now working precisely.
Is it possible to include in the original post a .hex file of your BISTRO version already built for the 22k resistor?
Thanks.
Great, glad it is working for you!
Yes, the hex file I currently have uploaded is for a 19.1k R1. I forgot to note that.
I stole TomE’s 22k calibration file but I have not actually moved it over to my Linux machine to use it yet.
I am waiting to update the firmware section of the OP till I finish the latest version of bistro, updates are being made in the TA firmware thread. Right now I am waiting on TK to have time to finish implementing the updates to compact the firmware and allow more space for mode groups ect.
As soon as I get that back I plan to put together the latest version with ~30 mode groups and update the OP.
I would like to create a “standard” firmware to go with these “standard” drivers so that they are interchangeable and easily worked with for many years.
TA, for some time I’m using BISTRO as my standard firmware in almost all my lights, and really enjoyed it. Can’t wait it’s new revised version to use with TA triple channel drivers.
I have high hopes for the combo of firmware and drivers, if for no other reason then they make my own life way easier and do what I personally need. Hopefully it fits the bill for some others as well.
Let me be clear though, I am simply building on what others have done before me and combining lots of work from different places into one single project.
ESR is equivalent series resistance, sot TA's description was exactly correct. Normally low is considered better, but I can see where it could be convenient for it to have some resistance built in, in some cases.
I see now what I missed in the spec sheet, the SSUR version of attiny25 comes in the S8S1 package which is not available for attiny85. Got it. Bending pins sounds like a bad idea for a first try at this.
TA, I understand that here in BLF the knowledge is a result of the effort of many members that are evolved and collaborating with each other. Interesting stuff is always coming. Thanks for all of you.
Unless TA invented the MOSFET, and even then, pretty much all work is just putting together things people already did, but in some incrementally new way. You credit or pay for (we don't hear the names of the attiny engineers here very often, but they $.50 for every driver) what came before you and that's that.
Indeed, like I have said several times, I am simply putting the work of lots of people together into a single project. The only thing unique that I have done are the driver PCB’s layouts themselves and soon the mode group options in the firmware.
Thanks for the encuragement though, it is still a lot of time to do the PCB layout. Although I am sure it pales in comparison to the time that Toykeeper and TomE have in the firmware design.
"Indeed" almost implies I'm agreeing you. The board layouts are not some trivial afterthought. It seems like yes, a lot of time, and a lot of thought required and it certainly creates something new. So you don't need to keep stating as if you haven't really done anything. It might even start to get annoying :).
lol, well it stems from past experiences in projects like this where I took the work of several other people and combined them into my version of the perfect setup in an open source environment.
Everything was fine until someone thought I was taking credit for work by others, then all of the sudden I am the arch enemy that is trying to steal everyone’s idea at the same time. Then I had the gall to try and sell some of them even though the entire thing was open source and could easily be built by anyone.
That was an unpleasant experience to say the least, the real kicker is that when the actual people I “stole” from noticed what was going on they were just glad to see someone pick up where they left off and use the work they had done. The damage was already done at that point though.
Needless to say I have been hesitant to get involved with things like that since.
BLF is different though, people don’t try to start fights and drama for no reason. I just forget sometimes. 
Got busy and fell behind quick! I think I’m caught up now. TA, you move too fast! 
lol, I have never been one to like long winded projects. I tend to pick a project, eat, breath and live that project till I finish it (or run out of money for it, whichever comes first, sadly it is usually the latter) and then move on to whatever is next on my project list.
For some reason, I am only interested in projects that are over my head. So often I don’t finish because it gets to complicated. Or it gets too involved and I don’t have the right tools/resources. Or I solve the challenge, get half way through, get board and move on. So anyway you look at it, I don’t really tend to finish anything. :person_facepalming:
I take those kinds of projects as a chance to learn something new. Knowing that something works is good, knowing why something works is much more fun.
Now I still get in over my head but have also learned where to draw the line. For example coding the firmware from scratch, that is something I am simply not ready to invest the time to learn to do it properly at this point so I leave that to the experts (that being TK and TomE in this case). Plus it would take many many years to learn how to code as efficiently as they do and I hate knowing that something could have been done better.
Lucky for us they have put out some amazing firmware so far and also made it user editable so that even people like me can edit and adjust it to fit my needs.
Hi everyone!
I asked Texas Ace to help me make a driver and tailswitch board for Small Sun Zy-T08 MT-G2 mod with the two 18650 batterries put in series.
The design mostly like Mike C’s earlier Small sun mod boards but some small modifications and The driver will be TA’s triple channel driver with his modified Bistro firmware.
Mike C’s designs looks like this. The two solder blob thing is the battery side of driver. You need to mark the head with tube to put in driver in position to match battery tops.
My idea is basically like this battery connetions with solder blobs on top because like in an SRK the head is twisting.
And springs at bottom on the switch board but with holes in the spring pad center for wires bypassing the spring through board and bypass wires can soldered directly to switch. Switch is an Omten 1288 size switch.
The driver in head is press fit so maybe will need a little sanding to perfect fit. The switch on the new switch board will interrupt the positive of battery one with the negative of battery two.
The original driver and switch board looks like this and I made some measurements on them. All measurements are in metric mm.
If any other measurements needed please tell me.
If Texas Ace have time for the board design I will really really thank for him, but if he has no time for it I will try to make it as my first driver design based on his drivers.
Ok, that looks doable, in fact it looks a lot like the DO1 driver, just a bit smaller. Not sure how many 7135’s it would fit but a few should be easy. Could you measure the inside diamitor of the driver pocket please so I know what kind of edge clearance is needed?
My only real question is, since I have never had one of those (wanted one, jsut never ended up ordering it), what are the 2 battery boards for? Are those just for the tailcap end?
If so while I can make up something for that easy enough, I would honestly just use the stock tailcap end. It would be pricy to order those from oskpark and they would gain you nothing over modding it.
You should be able to cut the traces between the cells and the body without too much hassle. A dremmel with a sanding/cutoff wheel and a stead hand should work real well. Then it should work the same
