well I'm confused. Click timing seemed to work for a little while, now it works, but it's just a guess if a middle press will be 1 second or 3 or won't happen at all. At least I'm seeing some reversals and mode resets now in time scales less than 10s. Yeah, I went over them all. If any resistor looks dicey it's R2, but if anything a loose R2 should result in high voltage readings.
So is medium press on by default? Long press is being pretty reliable now at least. It would help if I knew for sure when medium is enabled. If I know what a reset does, then I can start there.
edit, ok I'd still like to know the answer to that, but I think the answer to the present condundrum was just getting used to where it is. Medium seems to be at about 1.5 to 2s. 3s ish gets me to a long a press. So yeah, maybe it's all down to that 22k resistor. Hmm.. kind of liking the idea of this new driver software now.
Yes, medium press is enabled by default.
Thanks, that will help for future reference. It seems now the timing is just off, by quite a bit though, but it's certainly not like a factor of 10 wrong cap. I suppose it can just be calibrated out. Too slow is better than too fast.
If you use a 19.1K R1 it should fix it.
Or you can recalibrate it as well but I decided to just use the 19.1K if that says anything.
[Quote] I set it up with the hex files for exactly this reason, this way you do not have to touch a line of code unless you want to LOL You simply need to run that file from the command line to see what is going on. The easiest way for this is at least with windows 7 to hold shift and right click in the folder the file is stored in. There should be an option in the menu to “open command window here”. Click that and it should come up with a command prompt with a blinking line and the folder location you have the files stored in in the top left of the window. Then simply type flash25bistro.bat and press enter. It will then run AVR dude and try to flash the file. It will tell you if there is an error or if it was successful in the messages that follow. If it was disappearing instantly before, then it most likely had an error, this is usually a connection error for the USBASP. [quote]
Okay, I hate to let problems like this whip me but I've learned when to step back and get help.
So sorry for being a newb but I can't figure out how to get the 2 new hex files to flash to the attiny.
I can open the C source file with Note ++ and copy the guts of it then open studio 7 and paste it in there following comfychairs https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/24991 but when I click build I get 2 errors.
How do I just use the hex file with avrdude?
The hex files are already compiled, you simply flash them with AVRdude, no need to mess with a line of code at all.
The download includes all the software you need to flash it, you do not need anything besides AVR dude and then the drivers you the usbasp.
You will need to manually edit/run the flash command for AVR dude to account for the different file name that you want to flash.
Timing doesn't work when the driver is in the light anyway, but the ground is kind of barely pressed on at the moment and I'm guessing that's why. I blew an led earlier without even touching any electricity to it which was weird. The only thing I did do was solder to the pill so now I'm hesistant about that. Is it normal to be able blow these xm-l2 that way? Should I have have the star off the pill before soldering to the pill? This pcb seems kind of glued on and I haven't tried to remove it yet.
It's a bit weird to me to be grounded well enough for the light to work, but not enough to drain the cap, especially since the cap should probably drain even if the board isn't connected to anything, but weird things happen. Clearly it works when grounded well on the bench.
I would pull everything out of the light and test it on the bench first. Too many issues inside a light to troubleshoot things effectively.
Although timing and voltage readings will never be correct with the 22k R1.
Yeah, it works out of the light, other than timing and voltage being off. I think I got the 22 value off your oshpark description some time ago, but it says 19.1 here. I understand it throwing timing off. I don't really understand it throwing voltage off that much though. I cleaned up the r2 soldering just to be sure.
so 4.7/(4.7+19.1)*4.2 is .83 V with 22 it's 0.74V Not a 3x difference. Something else may be wrong still. I have to wonder if 1.1 is just a pegged response, like the code says for i = 1 to int(voltage) { flash} , written so as to always hit the loop once anyway.
Yeah, something is up with the voltage reading, it is usually about .2v off with the 22k.
I started out using 22k but swapped back to 19.1 due to the OTC.
The latest parts list is always in the OP here. Too hard to update all the oshpark boards.
I'll check voltages later. Either the voltage on the sense pin isn't what it should be, or the attiny is busted. I was too quick to dismiss the voltage thing and put it back toghether, but yeah, I think that's really not right regardless of 19 or 22. In fact, it seems like the divider isn't hooked up at all. Like R1 is disconnected.
or better yet, like the attiny pin is not connected well.
This is very possible. I would reflow the entire driver before you do much more, it has fixed things more often then you might think.
I have no idea what the command should be. Could you list the individual command for each one.
The easiest thing would be to simply rename the file you want to flash to bistro-texas-avenger.hex and copy it into the AVRdude folder.
Then simply run the flash25bistro.bat again. It will flash the renamed Hex instead of the default version.
I think this was the thread that we discussed throttling FET’s to control current to an XHP35?
I just tested 4 XHP35 HI in parallel with a simple “oldschool” FET driver using the NXP FET. It was run off 4 30Q’s freshly charged, with 22awg wiring that was a little longer than necessary. .
I programmed the driver with many levels to see when I needed to cut it off for 10amp total draw (2.5A per emitter). To my surprise, on 255 pwm it netted ~8.5amps total. That could certainly be increased with better wiring and a better FET, but these emitters might not need as much throttling as we thought when used in parallel.
Okay, I put each one in a separate folder with the right name. Then renamed each file to bistro-texas-avenger.hex. I just drag the one I want from its folder and drop it into the "avrdude Simply run flash25bistro.bat from command line" folder. when its done I just drag the hex back to its folder.
It worked. Thanks for getting me to this point. That was way easier than I expected.
There's still a lot more that I want to figure out. Like those calibration files. What, where, when and why?
Can you measure Vf at the star while on? Maybe your connections are worse than you think.