finges, if you look at the picture of the unpopulated board in the OP, you can see that there is a trace from the top, right pad of R4 to the bottom, left pad of R3. So, it will work the same electrically with Tom’s orientation.
Sorry I can’t help you with the C2. I don’t understand what it’s for either.
C2 has or at least had a purpose, recommended by DEL in the 25/45/85 thread originally. Before we had drivers with pads for it, I was air soldering a C2 in and it helped for sure. Can't recall details. I can tell you with the new addition of the 4.7 ohm resistor R5, C2 is not so much needed or critical anymore. R5 was the "big" difference maker in the stability of the signals.
Better to yank C2 then use a higher value, I'm think'n at least... DEL could tell us much better, but he's on the road for a few weeks - just got a pm from him last night and he answered a couple Q's for me. DEL told PD68 same thing though - if we needed to drop parts, what are the least impact? I believe the answer was C2 - might check PD68's latest.
Interesting bout R3/R4 -- I'll double check my boards here.
The 3D image is the correct setup for the R3/R4 resistors. Come to think of it, it would actually work with this the way you have it, although you would need to make sure they are in the right order, better to just do them as they were laid out IMHO.
If you do leave them setup this way then you need to flip them around as they will be reversed from the design if left the way you have them.
Texas_Ace, they look right to me. The R3 is 100kΩ and the R4 is 47Ω right? You may not have realized what you did, but even your silkscreen labels (R3 and R4) are in the perfect position to indicate the signal points of the resistors! The other pads (under the “1” of “104” and the “0” of “470” in Tom’s pic) are common. So, it really can just be oriented either way! Just make sure the pad next to R3 has one end of R3 on it, and the same for pad R4!
Actually, looking at it closer it looks like you are right, it can actually be setup either way, interesting, didn’t try to do that.
It’s nice that someone finally incorporated through wire design for spring bypasses. Kudos.
In NarsilTriple, got the voltage mon using the 1.1V ref working pretty well, very well actually. Also got temp monitoring in, and working to knock down output.
Made a change to voltage mon in DEL's code which I think did the trick - there was truncation goin on, not rounding, and once I rounded the ADC conversion to volts, it's working really well now.
For the temp monitoring, it's more sophisticate in ramping mode, but still not bad in normal mode set too - 3 steps down in ramping, cut by 1/2 each time, and in mode sets, drops twice, down 1 mode each time.
I'm pretty darn happy with it so far. Could tweak it forever of course, but also, this is on one flashlight, one driver, one 85 MCU, etc., so who knows how consistent it is. Used an HE2 cell in my test light (M2-Z), and it wasn't get'n hot enough, so dropped in a VTC6, and wow - got to ramp up in degrees pretty nicely. I monitored the housing with a IR thermo meter, so as outside approache 50C, the 55C trip point was hit, and output dropped in 1/2, then little while later, another 1/2 drop - that was enough. Might have to tweak the time delay - right now it's 20 secs - should make it 30 secs.
Outside temp drops immediately when brightness is cut in 1/2. In ramping mode, I use the ramping table index as divided by 2, not the amps, so not quite the same.
Edit: parasitic drain went down from 0.037 mA to 0.025 mA after removing R1 and R2 - I was using 220K and 47K.
This is very good news Tom! Thanks for all your work on this! :+1:
Indeed, that is a great addition to narsil, not much left you could do really!
So do we have indicator led support on pin7 now?
yes - that was completed before the ADC changes. Thought I posted it? Maybe in the 25/45/85 thread - I'm all confused.
I switched over the LED to pin #7 before this, think'n I'd load it on my OTR M3 before I got a chance to add the ADC stuff. The OTR M3 mod I got is using the 15mm AT triple, and doesn't have R1 and R2 pads at all, so, either get the 1.1V ref working, or no LVP... 
So, I was kind of/sort of forced to get'r dun, a good thing
I don’t pay much attention sometimes, so you probably did. I haven’t used Narsil (or the 85) in anything yet. Probably will for my upcoming XHP35 project. I haven’t decided if I’ll use my SP03, I’m kind of waiting to see if someone will trade me a 4 emitter host.
Question TA, I stumbled into the first several pages of the attiny25+ thread and noticed this issue about V version chips. It seems most people there prefer the V versions. You list the standard version on your parts list. Is there a particular reason? Are there some driver versions that require or anyway are setup by default for the higher clock speeds? Are the standard chips just cheaper (haven't checked). Does it basically make no practical difference? What's the scoop on all this?
As far as I know it doesn’t make a difference which version of the tiny25 you use since we clock them at less then 10mhz anyways. At least that is the best info that I was able to dig up.
I usually just use the ones from MTN which are the attiny25-20ssu versions
Iv'e taken the non-V version down to 2.3V and all still worked fine - the LED was slightly glowing even...
Boards have arrived for Small Sun ZY-T08 MT-G2 mod. Now I have to wait for the components.
Looks great! can’t wait to see it put together. The size came out correct?
My 30mm and 22mm LDO board shipped Tuesday, so another couple days. The 30mm I believe is for the L6 - look' forward to that one.
I finished one with a kiribi.ru copper pill (nice) and piggybacked an LD-4B with MT-G2. Would really be nice with this driver. Beautiful work on these boards TA!! ……plus ZozzV6. Thanks for posting and pic
Yeah, I keep wanting to build an L6 driver but have not had time to finish looking into the china PCB houses to see which ones I wanted to order from and how to order them.
Although I did get in a few 17mm PCB’s and a stencil to make putting them together a bit easier. I plan to make a small batch of them as a test run and list them for sale.