All of mine use the same thing, I do not like swapping parts between drivers unless an absolute must.
For the 30mm L6 OSHPark boards, I have a 2nd L6 coming today - the clear ano one, and I know "The Miller" wants one for his L6, and I owe him a driver anyway - he's paid me for an SRK driver he later didn't want, so figure the L6 driver would be a replacement. But I just might have to order another set anyways.
So, I got 4 of the proper LDO's on order, but might have to order 10 more today while it's still free shipping. Notice Mouser carries the same LDO, but it's not in stock. At Mouser, qty 10 is $1 each, so little cheaper at that qty than Arrow's $1.07 price, but NY sales tax and shipping kills it anyway... Both Arrow and Mouser charge me 8.6% sales tax.
Also, for now I just disabled LVP. I mounted a 360K R1 though, so plan on getting it working eventually. Problem is my new NarsilTriple uses LVP for the int. ref 1.1V but that won't work with 2S cells, so have to go back to external voltage dividers and lose the indicator LED.
So not so good trade-offs. Think'n of dropping the 7135 bank to recover a port for the LED, dunno....
Also did you notice Richard is now selling a FET+1 driver for the L6? It's a mystery driver - no pics, no detailed info. Does mention an LDO and high performance FET, no details on either. Wish Richard would get back to being more open on the tech side - he's turning into a "salesman" I'm afraid 
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Interesting, I am guessing it is just a normal old school FET driver with an LDO stretched to fit the L6.
I just now read his description. Here’s what it looks like to me:
- FET +1 driver with the single 7135 chip used only for moonlight mode.
- Driver designed for 2S input from the start, using LDO, not zener.
- Firmware set up to be as ideal as possible for the conditions listed above, and to be used with momentary switch, not clicky.
Gentlemen,
nice work, nice driver, nice builds! I love ’em triple channel. 
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On the LDO blowup:
Vout on pin5 was to my knowledge the sole version here on BLF for the SOT-23-5. Mattaus used the LT1761 in his Knucklehead V3, wight proposed 4 different LDOs with the same pinout for his AxxDD-SO8+LDO and yes, RMM used it in the BLF SRK V2. I kept it that way in V3.
ImA4Wheelr made the famous need-no-zeners thread, but he used completely different packages. I wasn’t aware of the LDOs RMM is selling and would not have thought that he changed the pinout.
TomE, glad to hear only the 4R7 blew up. When I read the datasheet of your LDO, it effectively connected GND to + on your board…
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7135 in 2S driver:
I was sceptical when I read that RMM discourages from using the 7135 with 2S, so I asked him in his thread, because in prior times he wrote differently on the subject. Unfortunately he did not come back to the topic. 
So I took a 2S zener modded light and left it on for 8 days solely on the single 7135 (PWM255, 350mA). Twice a day I changed the cells for fresh ones. After the time, everything was still fine. The 7135 did not die, output in mA on PWM-255 was exactly as it was 8 days prior and Moon with PWM-1 was still working (MT-G2!).
After that, I didn’t really bother anymore and simply use it.
I’m sure heatsinking helps, so I use a certain eagle-package to solder the complete back of the 7135, and the driver is well connected to the body of the light. And it was a 350mA version of the 7135, the 380mA version is surely more prone to failure.
So in the end, with 350mA and proper heatsinking, odds are pretty good the 7135 will at least last quite a while.
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NXP YLD vs YLC:
The PSMN3R2-30YL*C* is the older version (date in datasheet), technology was called NextPower instead of NextPowerS3 with the YL*D* MOSFETs. Is the S3 a major technology evolution or just some marketing hype? I don’t know.
YLD tend to have better values for RDSon in the 4.5V segment, compared to the YLC, while the latter are cheaper. QDG and QD values should be better with the S3 versions, that’s what their marketing says, but that’s not always the case. As QDG and QD only get truly relevant at higher switching frequencies than we use, I mostly care for RDSon.
But, truth be told, 3.2mOhm or 3.75mOhm, that is a difference of 0.00055 Ohm. The equivalent is 1.5mm of a copper cable of 0.5mm².
The ZY-T08 PCB is 29,95mm so the size was correct. Just my pill has some little bents on the edge from some previous driver removings. The PCB-has some ridges on four sides after manufacturing which is perfect to adjust the correct fit with sanding them perfect. So no need to change anything in diameter I think. Who can build the driver also able to sand a little bit 
Great! Yeah,those little tabs are nice for fitting drivers in just so.
For the record, this of course refers to pwm DD frequencies of these kinds of drivers, just figured out that using some of the standard FETS around here at buck frequencies is probably not a great idea. Yes, then gate charge can matter. On the other hand, that was for pfet versions sort of so not really the standard fets either. It seems in nfet maybe you can 4mohm and still only a couple of nF of gate capacitance, not sure.
Ah, good to know :+1:
Ok, I just bit the bullet and place an order for some 30mm L6 drivers, Q8 Tailcaps, and both 3 channel and multicell Q8 drivers from 2 different China PCB houses.
Not cheap per se but a lot cheaper per PCB then oshpark. I got 10 of each coming. I am interested in seeing how these compare to oshpark both in quality and speed.
In other news I have got the parts ordered to build 25 TA 17mm drivers as a first test run. Once they come in I am gonna see just how much time it takes to put them together and then list them for sale (well any that are left, already got some spoken for).
In other, other news. I tried one of the thin 2oz 17mm drivers today in an XP-G3 triple S2+. The thin driver is nice because it allows you to just get the retaining ring threaded and thus eliminates the need for soldering the driver down. I think I will be using that going forward.
Sadly the XP-G3’s seem to have shorted/died instantly when the FET kicked in, no clue why, they worked fine in the low modes but as I got to turbo it suddenly flashed blue and now they have VERY high VF pulling only 100ma at 4V off my power supply.
No clue what happened. I had tested the driver with another LED prior to this, so I don’t think it is the driver.
I was using a sinkpad triple for the first time.
Hmm so you were running the driver off the PS? Did you have a voltage limit set on the supply to something the LEDs can handle, or only the current limit? If the voltage was set high and you relied on current limit only, I wonder if they got a high voltage zap off the supply's output cap. I guess you were running an mcu and all though so surely you must have had voltage control on too, maybe just a bit high? like maybe 4.2V out of a ceramic cap is a bigger burst than 4.2 out of a battery. It's weird.
No, I tested it before and after the issue with the power supply but the LED’s “popped” when it was being powered by an HE2. The odd part was how instant it was, I have had them turn blue before but never flash blue in an instant off a single cell. The odd part is they still work, just with a much much higher VF.
Well if all three went at once, it's hard to imagine it's the LEDs' fault. I get why you question the board, but... it's just a board. High "Vf" sounds to me like it could be a resistive connection. You're seeing Vf +IR and R being a bit big you need to apply a good bit of extra V just to get a measly 100mA out and enough to see light. Seems like some trace or component or contact or such is barely hanging on. May have even just been a poor solder connection, heated up.. mostly burned out, but not quite. My bets are the LEDs are still fine, but just a small bet.
I don’t think the LEDs are fine, had the same thing yesterday after I shorted a led with the reflector while tightening.
Even if I connect the led directly to a battery without a driver it only glows a little, like a very low moonlight mode. Strange thing, the driver was fine and it now works with another led.
I plan on running some tests later to see what the issue is. There is a + and - sign on the sinkpad that I think go to the ground and I think one of the wires may have crossed over to that slightly, strange it didn’t just short out though.
Either way I am gonna figure out what the bad part is before trying again.
Well, I ran some tests and didn’t learn much.
As I expected the driver is fine, it is now running another set of XP-G3’s (good thing I always order extras) and it works great. The old XP-G3’s are dead, they will light up but the VF is over 4V. Might use them for de-dome testing since they are dead anyways.
The new light is together and I really like the thin 2oz PCB for S2+ lights. The retaining ring can be used and it vastly improves the ease of assembly and more importantly disassembly. Not to mention 2oz of copper is always better.
The triple is running a 5700k 90+ CRI, 3000k 80+ CRI and a 4000k 75+ CRI.
Great color and beam, super white with great color rendition.
I somehow manage to damage one of the domes while cleaning them (second time this has happened, anyone else notice they are pretty weak?) so I sliced them off, naturally improved the throw some but not a ton but the tint shift was naturally present. Although interestingly, it is only tint shifted at the edge of the beam, the center is perfect.
I just made another one, this time without damaging a dome and I have to say, it is REALLY nice.
I used a 5700k, 3000k and 5000k this time and it is a pure white light, a bit warmer then a 3D but way nicer to look at.
I think I would prefer a 4000k over the 5000k as the 3rd LED myself but I should know before long as I plan to build that as well.
It came out just as I hoped it would and even better. Now to order some more 2oz drivers so I can build some more of these. Can’t wait to try these out tonight.
I still have no clue why the first set of LED’s died.
Now, my next project is a 7X SRK with a mixed tint.
Thinking 3x 5700k, 3x 3000k 1x 4000k.
Got the good LDO's in yesterday! Got in 4 orders from Arrow in one day. Now just got to figure the rest of it out, and where I left off.
The specs on the MIC5235 look outstanding. I got 14 of them now, 1st order was for 4, 2nd for 10.
Great, can’t wait to see how it works out. Now that I have my own batch of LDO drivers coming in I am going to be in the same boat before long.