Well it's not that bad of an idea. So long as you understand where the gotchas are are watch out for them. Laptops don't generally sit on a shelf for 6 months either though so there's less concern about slow drain.
Anyone that mods a light with XHP’s would also know to lock it out I am sure.
Hmm, I need to work on a few different projects, should I build the XHP50 8X skyray or build some drivers……
hah, the skyray for sure, easy choice
I'm pretty sure the FET in the first assymbly image is on backwards, and as a result of blindly (my fault) following the picture, mine is too. I mean it's an obvious mistake on my part, easy enough to catch from the white dot and the obvious pad layout, but I just happened to notice the wrong thing without using my brain at the time. Hopefully if I haven't fried something as a result of that or poking around (thought I heard a pop... hmmm), I'll flip it and maybe finally have one of these working. Flashing seems to have gone ok once I figured out one of my two usbasps didn't work and the clip had to be rewired.
No time at the moment to fix it. I'm guessing the gate drive pin on the attiny should be fried. I have another attiny. This makes for a great BLF style light though. It's only got turbo, and off.
I kinda doubt the gate pin is fried, these little attinys are tough suckers. How did you put the FET on backwards?
I think the rest of the board was backwards, and that was the only part I got right, lol.
It seems it wasn't fried. I reversed it and the driver works, which I'll call win for a this being the first smd soldering I ever did.
But, it doesn't work right. Every click is a short click. So no memory, no resetting to first mode, no returning to last mode... only advancing modes even if I wait 20 or 30 seconds. Seems that waiting VERY long maybe becomes a long press but I'm not certain. I can get into congfigure, and get battcheck through mode selection. It flashes 1.1. Is that normal? Just a calibration thing?
I checked over all the resistors. I've only got three sizes of caps and the 10uf's are 805, the 1 and 0.1 being 0603. A too small otc wouldn't cause this and I don't think a 1 uf C2 would cause this either. I am using a 22k R1 not 19.1. It's what I have.
Unfortunately I chose the wrong light for a first try. The retaining ring wont fit, have to solder it shut. Killed an LED I think from solder heat, testing on the bench only now until I get it all worked out.
The 22k will cause the voltage reading to be off and the OTC timing to be off as well.
Although check over everything else and make sure all the connections are good and that the driver is not shorting on the light somewhere.
This is why I always bench test drivers outside of the light first, saves a lot of hassle later.
Ok, this is just annoying...haha. As I wrote that, now it just works. There was a reason it didn't work at first. I did use a C2 of 10uf the first time, but I changed it out and it still didn't work. But now it does! Go figure.
Well voltage is still reading 1.1, but click timing works.
Not surprised that the voltage is off, although being that far off is kinda odd. Sure those resistors are soldered correctly and the correct ones? I would double check all the parts to make sure they are all in the right spots.
well I'm confused. Click timing seemed to work for a little while, now it works, but it's just a guess if a middle press will be 1 second or 3 or won't happen at all. At least I'm seeing some reversals and mode resets now in time scales less than 10s. Yeah, I went over them all. If any resistor looks dicey it's R2, but if anything a loose R2 should result in high voltage readings.
So is medium press on by default? Long press is being pretty reliable now at least. It would help if I knew for sure when medium is enabled. If I know what a reset does, then I can start there.
edit, ok I'd still like to know the answer to that, but I think the answer to the present condundrum was just getting used to where it is. Medium seems to be at about 1.5 to 2s. 3s ish gets me to a long a press. So yeah, maybe it's all down to that 22k resistor. Hmm.. kind of liking the idea of this new driver software now.
Yes, medium press is enabled by default.
Thanks, that will help for future reference. It seems now the timing is just off, by quite a bit though, but it's certainly not like a factor of 10 wrong cap. I suppose it can just be calibrated out. Too slow is better than too fast.
If you use a 19.1K R1 it should fix it.
Or you can recalibrate it as well but I decided to just use the 19.1K if that says anything.
[Quote] I set it up with the hex files for exactly this reason, this way you do not have to touch a line of code unless you want to LOL You simply need to run that file from the command line to see what is going on. The easiest way for this is at least with windows 7 to hold shift and right click in the folder the file is stored in. There should be an option in the menu to “open command window here”. Click that and it should come up with a command prompt with a blinking line and the folder location you have the files stored in in the top left of the window. Then simply type flash25bistro.bat and press enter. It will then run AVR dude and try to flash the file. It will tell you if there is an error or if it was successful in the messages that follow. If it was disappearing instantly before, then it most likely had an error, this is usually a connection error for the USBASP. [quote]
Okay, I hate to let problems like this whip me but I've learned when to step back and get help.
So sorry for being a newb but I can't figure out how to get the 2 new hex files to flash to the attiny.
I can open the C source file with Note ++ and copy the guts of it then open studio 7 and paste it in there following comfychairs https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/24991 but when I click build I get 2 errors.
How do I just use the hex file with avrdude?
The hex files are already compiled, you simply flash them with AVRdude, no need to mess with a line of code at all.
The download includes all the software you need to flash it, you do not need anything besides AVR dude and then the drivers you the usbasp.
You will need to manually edit/run the flash command for AVR dude to account for the different file name that you want to flash.
Timing doesn't work when the driver is in the light anyway, but the ground is kind of barely pressed on at the moment and I'm guessing that's why. I blew an led earlier without even touching any electricity to it which was weird. The only thing I did do was solder to the pill so now I'm hesistant about that. Is it normal to be able blow these xm-l2 that way? Should I have have the star off the pill before soldering to the pill? This pcb seems kind of glued on and I haven't tried to remove it yet.
It's a bit weird to me to be grounded well enough for the light to work, but not enough to drain the cap, especially since the cap should probably drain even if the board isn't connected to anything, but weird things happen. Clearly it works when grounded well on the bench.
I would pull everything out of the light and test it on the bench first. Too many issues inside a light to troubleshoot things effectively.
Although timing and voltage readings will never be correct with the 22k R1.