The best version Hd2010 today?

Driver and emitter arent all you need concern yourself with. The entire light is subject to change from any individuals experience. I say experience because there is no version that is known to be consistent I dont think, so its really pot luck. As someone said, if you can find someone that knows these things, has recently purchased, and inspected you might get a clue where to look, but remember these things take weeks to arrive, and weeks is a long time for change in China.

If they are consistent, go with the Yezl as mentioned, but I have no idea if they are any more consistently made and not cloned/semi cloned silly.

I am looking for the best 2010 too, Yezl isnt an option for me, i need 2010 for the LD 1 driver
Any tips?Links? :slight_smile:

Get one from t-mart before they raise the price like they did on the small sun.

HD2010

there is a 5% coupon around the www somewere.

The old Tangsfire HD2010 turned out to be good, but you’ll change the driver and led anyway so who cares.

have fun

Well, it says: discontinued

It was okay yesterday… Mmh.

edit: this one might still work HD2010 + SK68

Otherwise I would go with a Fandyfire one, thay seem to be somewhat consistent.
Uniquefire should also be okay if you find a reliable shop.

I bought the Fandyfire version from Fasttech 3 weeks ago …… See thread here - HD2010, Have i got a duff one?

Fortunately mine is away being ‘improved’ by a fellow forum member, [Thanks Hopback 8) ] … But the standard ‘as arrived’ performance was a big let down.

I wouldn’t buy another ……

i aint interested in the driver and emitter m8, i have my own: ld1 5amp driver + various dedomed u3 @ XP-L on a copper pcb, the one thing that interests me is the quality of the torch itself, and the reflector especialy, what can you say about that? Any damages or arrival?

From what I have heard and experienced, as long as you are willing to replace the driver and/or emitter, it doesn’t really matter where you buy the HD2010, as long as you get the single LED one. The heatsinking on the triple LED HD2010’s is crap from what I’ve heard.

+1

That reflects my impressions, from outer apprearence they are a hit and miss I guess.
Gearbest has some in grey, but the one they made the pictures with is foggy and dirty.

I’d go with the cheapest one from a reliable reseller, only other option is getting a Maxtoch M12.
Worth the money, but another price range.
I also like the Xintd x3 that GB sells in black with convoy name on it. But that would have less throw.

You might get Gearbest or other sellers that are active here to check your flashlight for outer appearence but that won’t help if they pack it crappy.

Oh, and Mitko, if you don’t want the Yezl because of the driver diameter, you could just “piggyback” your LD1 onto the stock Yezl Y3 driver. Tom E is the master in that area. Also, if you plan on using the HD2010 with a dedomed emitter, be prepared to grind down the back of the reflector quite a bit so that the LED can sit higher in the reflector for better focus. It took me forever, but the results are worth it.

I did that m8, just “piggyback” ed it like 5 times, at the end i used silver plated audio cables : 3.5amps tops…either Panasoninc 18650 PF cant handle that, or i am missing something , or i dont know, i gave up: lost 3 days for that, hehe

I just bought that TMART HD2010, thanks to tryps ! Lets hope the reflector will be nice enough

No prob, I was lucky to order my Small Sun ZY-T08 half a day before they raised the price.

I assume you bypassed the tail spring with silicone wire / copper braid. Cleaned the old driver board, boored a hole through it and used the wire as B+?

If you done all that and it didn’t help, the only thing I can think of is “bad” ground of the driver or a LED not reflowed 100% to the mpcb.
Since you had no switch in the circuit while messuring amps the switch and ground there won’t be the problem. At least not this time. :smiley:

Was just playing around with my UF HD2010 and noticed :~ that they got the SOS “backwards”….
its blinking OSO :party: :party:

Ordered an Fandyfire for my friend but no sight of it yet…
Thanks for all of your inputs on the matter.

My Tmart HD2010 started having issues after two batteries worth of use, the driver is the good direct one but it whines like crazy now and flickers. Its a crap shoot. The only Tmart light that has been trouble free for me is the Tangsfire C8 version, I use that one all the time and it has been durable. Its my main bike light.

Man, sorry to hear the Y3 mod didn't work out so well. I just did 3 different nice light mods with OSHPark custom DD boards piggy-back's with my custom e-switch firmware (1 click OFF) and got outstanding results - real happy with them:

  1. Warsun X60 - 6.6A on a Efest 26650 Smile, XM-L2 T6 4D - awesome tint, 1,608 lumens @30 secs
  2. SupFire L5 (from RMM @Mtn), 5.47A on a KK 26700 5000, awesome XM-L2 T4 5B1 80+ CRI on a MaxToch 26 -- 1,363 lumens @30 secs
  3. FandyFire K2, measured only 5.33A on a Efest 26650, but assembled, the lightbox tells a different story, with a XM-L2 U2 1A on a 20mm Noctigon, 1,625 lumens @30 secs, 51 kcd throw (450m). Since I couldn't get the K2's tailcap off, I used a custom made copper ground strap from copper sheet metal that cross's the neg. spring and comes up the inside of the battery tupe and bends over the edge of the tube, where it threads into the head This worked out great and boosts output by a good chunk, about 175 lumens (verified by my lightbox measurements)

I simply use 22 AWG silicone for the grounds - 3 separate places form the contact board to the edge of the suspended driver - provides ample electrical connection and pretty good heat path, as well as a solid foundation. All the custom DD boards (new generations) have some sort of ground ring on the top and that's what I solder those 3 legs to. I try to find pads that have a ground connection (use DMM to check for continuity), rather than using the ground ring of the contact board because that could interfere with the contact board mount. The 22 AWG wires are soldered angled, not straight up/down.

For the LED+ wire, I try to go direct to the springs, drilling a hole thru the contact driver. For the K2, I couldn't do that because there's no driver spring - it requires button top cells, or at least cells that bump out on the + side. So for the K2, I wenwt direct to a fat pad on the contact driver board.

Ahhh - I'd highly recommend the Efest 26650 IMR cells btw. I'm getting as good, or better high amps out of these DD mods than the hot 2500 mAh 18650's (SONY VTC5, Sam 25R, LG HE2, etc.). Besides they have 3500 mAh and not 2500... win-win, great for HD2010's too.

The first Yezl i sold to a colleague of mine( he like it as it was), but i ordered a new one, and will continue the modding, also got hd2010, plus m12 sniper on its way and the new Olight

My goal is to find the most suitable thrower for my rifle, unfortunately 2battery ones are a bit long( and heavy), Yezl was perfect fit though…will check the others now, and will compare

Yes, thanks for the Efest suggestion, i ordered one for evaluation, its price is good too, unfortunately we dont have KK 26700 in EU, but i got also Keeppower 4200ma and Trustfire 5000ma( those aint good definately)

Can i contact you for a future modding assistance?

Sure! Been busy and will be a busy holiday season, but I'm trying to make more time for BLF.

Those days i got the second Yezl, and today a pack of 26650/18650 batteries
Out of the box Yezl( the driver seems better this time) and Efest IMR 26650 64A 3500mAh vs Samsung INR18650-25R vs Keeppower IMR 26650 4200mAh 3.7V (50A)
Y3+ Efest- 2.49a max
Y3 + 25R - 2.55A max(aver)
Y3 + Keeppower - 2.72A max(aver)

The batteries are new, out of the charger, and since i have to charge alot, first results were wierd so i tested with all i had, same results

A bit vierd though…its either those Keeppower batteries are good, or Y3 driver just dont like 25Rs…unfortunately i bought only 1 Efest battery for evaluation

25r realy shines on LD 1 driver

Actually I'm thinking.... The Efest cell is doing the best!

This is a buck driver, so what you are seeing is that the Efest can deliver higher voltage, so draws less amps. I'm not 100% on this, but I've seen this behavior many times before in other lights that I know the better lower resistance cells do measure at lower amps.

That Efest cell is the best cell I know of. If you were to use it with a DD driver, you would see the highest amps out of it. Mine compare almost dead-on, maybe slightly ahead of the Sam 25R, LG HE2, Efest 35A 18650, and SONY VTC5. But of course you got 3500 mAh instead of 2500 mAh with the 18650's, so it maintains higher output for longer.

I`ve tested in on the LD1 driver, Efest here is slightly(0.1amps) better than 25r, but again Keeppower is better 4.8amps vs 4.5 apms, internal resistance of both( measured is nearly the same, arround 45mOms) Efest claim they have 12moms IR but my measurement say: arround 40moms with 10% error
Yet, Efest is nearly 2 euros cheaper, whitch is good, i ordered KK 26650 4200ma, but i dont know when or if they will arrive, shipping that kind of batteries is a pain

Tom, as a pro modder i wanted to ask you, is there a safe way to remove a flashlight label? I tried acetone…gas…kerosene…not working so war :slight_smile: