You’ll just need to try it out and see. Make sure you can return it if it doesn’t work well, if at all possible.
I’m after some H4 versions which they also list in this add, 9600lumens seems a lot from XHP50’s has anyone tried H4 LED lights? I’m wondering if they keep dipped beam on while using full beam to get near quoted outputs.
I want better dipped beam mainly as my van has really poor headlights. I tried Philips vision extreme +150% but they made little difference just a cooler tint.
In the wife’s VW the Philips vision extreme 130% made a massive difference so I’m wondering if my van has a computer limited current to the bulbs.
I’m thinking this as when I flash full beam and let go of the stalk main beam stays on for 4 secs on its own then goes off.
Van is a 2016 Vauxhall Vivaro Sportive bi-turbo
H4 is like my motorcycle uses. I’ve already done a successful swap on it and the beam is perfect.
Here is the link. The pictures are not showing up due to Photobucket. I’ll try and get them updated.
http://vfr.bikersoracle.com/index.php?threads/86-interceptor-led-headlight-bulb-upgrade-v-2.133576/
Low beam should always turn off so that you have less near light reflected back into your face messing up your night vision (long distance vision).
I used a kit like this.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F122629768700
Here is my updated H4 thread.
http://vfr.bikersoracle.com/index.php?threads/86-interceptor-led-headlight-bulb-upgrade-v-2.133576/
Nice! Would be perfect if 4500K or so. 
Has anyone tried to modify these LED bulbs? I have ordered a pair of XHP50 LED bulbs for my car high beam (9005) and I wonder if I can dedome the LED and increase the current draw of the LED. Or better yet, swap it into something like XHP35 HI although I know it is kinda difficult as the footprint size are different.
Any idea how to increase the current draw of the LED bulb? This is because I think the wattage claims of “60W” or “5000 lumens/bulb” of these LED bulbs are just as fake as those “12,000 lumens” Uranusfire soupcan flashlights that we’ve seen around lol, and I want to increase the current draw to make this “60W” claim a reality.
I’ve done a lot of LED work on my car.
(Full write up at this web site: PartsSquare 9006 (HB4) Vs Morimoto “2Stroke” with 9012 kit in a Generation 1 (‘11-‘15 | GM Volt Forum(%9111-%9115 )
Morimoto “2Stroke” installed 5/2017
According to Cree, the XHP50 LED package based on the Cree SC5 tech can be driven to 1,600 Lumens per package (some sources say 2,200 Lumens but I’m going with the numbers from Cree) and each Morimoto “bulb” has two packages installed for a total of;
3,200 Lumens per “bulb”
6,400 Lumens total for a pair (RAW output)
Texas_ace made a comment above about temperatures and cooling. That is obviously a critical issue in the bulb design. Most of the devices I have seen seem to have some sort of metal support for the LEDs that moves heat.
I have seen at least one bulb that appears to use a heat pipe to move the heat. This should provide much better heat removal than a solid piece of metal. It would be useful if people looking at replacement LED bulbs could note the use of heat pipes if they are sure they do use them.
Heat transfer shouldn’t be the primary deciding factor on which bulb to get. Getting a factory beam pattern is the most important thing (for street use, low beam lights).
Secondary might be brightness. There are weak lights out there that don’t generate much heat, so cooling is no big deal.
Third might be cooling.
Most led headlight bulbs are cheap crap so don’t expect to see any real technology or development in them unless they are from an OEM vehicle manufacturer. Even the Philips DOT legal led bulbs just use a metal core to transfer heat from inside of the headlight housing to the outside.
The big thing I look for concerning cooling is how good the passive design is. The thread-on heatsinks don’t seem to transfer heat well because they can loosen and not make good contact to the metal core.
The braided copper heatsinks might be the better design. You get a lot more surface area and the copper spreads the heat more evenly.
BTW, what bulb did you see that uses a heat pipe design?
Unfortunately I don’t remember.
I understand and agree with your priorities. I was only trying to alert people that there might be some with heat pipes out there and if they find one, tell us. What I saw could simply have simply been bad Chinglish applied to a sales brochure. I was looking for something else when I saw it, was going to go back; and I forgot.
As you know, if someone makes one, it would have significantly better cooling. This could help lifetime, and maybe keep the LEDs a bit brighter under use. If someone does use a heat pipe, they are more likely to have done the LEDs correctly.
I have a 2000 Silverado. I think I use the same high beam. What company did you choose?
I have a similar situation with my 96 Explorer. Even though it has separate rear flashers, somehow with LEDs just enough current “leaks” over to the brake circuit that the brake emitter of the bulbs will (ever so slightly) light up. It’s actually less noticeable than in the pic, as I’ve adjusted the levels for this post. It’s even less noticeable than it was initially, as I’ve since upgraded the rear turns and backups from Zevos . I’m holding off on further upping the brakes, as it may be overkill, and may blind/agitate a cop into writing me a ticket 
. Also, the CC will disengage whenever I use the turn signals. Not a deal breaker in my case, as I just have to keep my foot on the accelerator and then reengage the CC, whenever I’m changing lanes.
Not sure what brand is it exactly as I just ordered it on Aliexpress, but I think it is the “LED 7S” XHP50 LED bulbs that I saw on Youtube which has been reviewed by a few Youtubers as the appearance is the same. The one I ordered is for the 9005 socket type though.
Can you link these DOT legal LED bulbs?
Sure, they are only made in the H4 size and are pretty expensive, though.
http://www.xenondepot.com/h4-philips-12953BWX2-LED-Bulb-p/12953bwx2.htm
Interesting, but nothing proving they are street legal
The other Philips LED bulbs i have seen before specifically say not street legal
https://www.powerbulbs.com/product/philips-x-treme-ultinon-led-headlamp-h4
Hmmm, it seems Philips have made some changes. The box used to say DOT approved and they were 150% brighter than halogens. Now the DOT approval is gone, it says not for street use and it says 200% brighter than halogens.
I have not kept up to date on Philips products. Their Ultinon LED bulbs are too pricey for me anyway.
Are you looking for street legal LED bulbs? Why? Does your country require proof the bulbs are legal?
Yes Canada does require street legal bulbs. That said i agree those bulbs are way overpriced, the profit margin is probably huge.
Philips spent a ton of money designing those bulbs to replicate the factory beam pattern. Then you have the Chinese companies which swoop in and make cheap copies of it. I think that explains the big price difference.
Can you simply swap in legal bulbs during the inspection process and use something else the rest of the time?
But… but… that would be wrong. :smiling_imp: