So, I have had time to experiment with various XM-L and now XM-L2 lights. Just took the STL-V2 with T6 and put it against a cream wall vs the Maxtoch 2S…very, very little brightness advantage. My verdict: Unless you’re a modder like many of you are - with the ability to create direct thermal paths from the LEDs to copper heatsinks and use high-current drivers - there really is not an advantage on the switch to XM-L2.
Tom E just got done with a modded Aleto Tactical 26650 light for dad which is running at about 4 amps on Noctigons. After replacing the flawed stock switch, the thing kicks out 1,300 legit lumens out the front. Until now, I realize I’d never seen a truly well-driven XM-L2 (T6)! This. Thing. Is. Amazing!!! 72,000 kcd and enough spill to kill a goat!!!
So that got me wondering…how many of you still prefer or else rely on stock lights with any of the first-gen emitters? Not considering the option of modding, I find that the first gens are easier to drive to max current while the latter require tedious efforts and skills. I also prefer the tint of the first gens to the noticeably yellowish XM-L2s. I do like the XM-L2 T6s best for tints, but keep being distracted by the extra phosphor color of the others.
When I think back at how excited we were to get the XM-L T6 when it was new, it makes me not want to upgrade several lights I own, but not only because they have become a piece of history, but because of the incredible mark they made on the LED industry by making serious performance affordable (thus putting out to pasture the MC-Es, P7s, and SSTs ). What say you?
The xml2 on copper allows 2 times the light output of the xml on aluminium, in the same flashlight, and is easily obtainable in many more and nicer tints now than I could get the old xml. I have made a A8-clone direct drive mod (Ultafire LLZ something) with a xml2 5A tint CRI 80 (very nice tint) that does 1100 lumens out the front, that makes it really tough to have nostalgic feelings towards the old xml.
Let me just add that I’m not talking nostalgic feelings, nor am I putting down the XM-L2 (which I want another of modded to crazy levels). I’m just saying that in bone-stock lights, the performance difference is not dramatic.
I see what you mean. There isn’t much point in replacing an xml with xml2 unless you’re driving it at significantly higher amps and the xml2 is on copper.
Placing an xml2 on copper in my hd 2010 gave a slight noticeable increase, not enough to warrant the $7 price tag (both running at about 3amps, same cell), but if I were to get a better draw cell I would see a very noticeable increase (as I did with the DST emitter/driver upgrade).
The XML’s that are getting replaced will be dropped into less fortunate, older lights that have weak emitters… the older siblings get the hand-me downs.
My only T6 is cheap ebay clone of something, 501 or 502 I think, 3xAAA, cost I think $12 shipped, puts out lots of light, sits on my light shelf cause its too big for EDC or even regular toolbag use, but its ready for future time when a big bright light is needed. No mods, runs Eneloops mostly for the LSD.
I don't even have an XM-L2 light. I have a single XM-L2 emitter on a star I bought ages ago but it's still in my parts box. I haven't had opportunity to do anything with it. My other XM-L lights are all First-Gen emitters.
Really ? The throw is better thanks to the new die shape, also the extra lumens are worth it. No reasons to keep the old gen.
Improvements may be small be its noticeable, like using AR lens.
Though on the tint you may be right, they seem to have more yellow.
Remember also that by stepping down the current the XML-2 can deliver the same lumens but with more run time. It’s fun to see how hard an led can be driven but for most of my uses I want enough light along with adequate run time. I’m still using up my stash of 1st gen stuff and just recently acquired some 2nd gen T6 3D’s so I’ll still have to see how that plays out. Always enjoy seeing the variety of input and opinions.
All of my lights now have XM-L2s except for my Niteye Eye10 TiC (XM-L U2) and Olight S10 Baton (XM-L ?) I don’t plan on changing those ones out purely because its not as simple as all the others I have done and for what they are used for it won’t make any difference. All my lights which did have the old emitter I have either sold or gifted to people now. XM-L2 or MT-G2 only for me now 8)
But it has not worked out that way. The forward voltage requirement for XM-L2 is higher and you have to “lock into” that “next level” of output as if you had an unlock code for a videogame and could “hack” it or “cheat” (to complete the illustration). Without special measures being done, the output is not much of an improvement.
