Ability to “lock out” a flashlight is when you can loosen the flashlight head to break electrical contact and prevent battery drain and accidental bump turn-ons. I find it takes more than 5-10 degrees to “lock out” the Warrior, but it does lock out when you loosen it: its easy to see if it is or not, just try to activate the buttons afterwards.
Thank you. I’m revisiting this as an option since the Sun Ray King was recommended to me a few times on here. I’m coming through the thread but so far owners of both seem to favour the Warrior a lot better. If only it was 4 cells (I have 4 and wanted to use them all in a single torch - no redundant cells).
I don’t think there are any Supfire M6 clones yet. Any Supfire M6 you can find should be genuine. Mtnelectronics will ship internationally. The owner is RMM here on BLF. RMM’s Sales You could ask about shipping costs.
I was partially concerned about clones (hence wanted to buy from the people who mod it - very likely they don’t deal with clones) but also for webs that take your money and deliver 2 months later. I am more than a little late in getting this torch as I need to visit the greenhouse and tinker with heating in the coming days. I even charged all my cells up to max capacity a good while ago and then found out last week you shouldn’t store them like that :~
Thank you for the link to the poster here. I will ask right now.
My warrior has been having a few issues lately ,dropping down from hi after short time, only 1 led lighting and finally stopped altogether.Removed tail cap ( 2 large pairs of multi grips) and found the 3 tail cap board screws were missing,surprised the thing ever worked at all.Now with 3 screws fitted and tail cap springs braided the warrior is brighter than my SRK.
I have just sent my Paypal payment for the standard M6. Because people had been suggesting I get a SRK and then I found the M6 was better built and kind of next level SRK I think I’ve gone for the right one. The only thing I was a bit unsure about was the M6 vs torches with more crees as I had read here and there of a cree or two dying after the first year and figured the more crees the more it could lose without heading for the dustbin. Hoping the quality of the M6 means no crees dying like this.
Interesting. My Warrior with XML2s already kills the stock SRK and M6, but now I wonder what it would do with braided springs… What batteries are you using?
I doubt if braided springs would make a visual difference,as the springs are not to flimsy and prob only drawing between 2 and 3 amps per spring .I did mine because I had it apart and can’t do any harm.The improvement I got would have been from fitting the spring plate retaining screws which were missing.As I said earlier I was surprised the light worked at all with these missing.Probably worth checking if any screws are missing or loose and braid the springs at the same time.I am using Santo 2800 in my light.
I had the Fandyfire version of this light. Had done spring braids and changed the original wires to thick gauge wires. However, I found that this light cannot be turned on at full high for more than 4.5 ~ 5 minutes before thermal protection kicks in to reduce the light intensity.
Not sure if this is normal or that I had not heatsinked the driver PCB to the head well enough.
Any 2000+ Lumens light that does not get hot either has lousy heat sinking indicating that it is overheating internally or has a massive head with lots of cooling area and all of the soup can lights I have seen have pretty minimal mass and cooling fins. If well designed with good heat sinking and with decent output they WILL get HOT! The more output the more heat. A simple matter of physics!
I have seen critics of the SupFire M6 as being too heavy compared to the SRK but the added mass and good thermal conductivity of the design allow better reliability and slower overheat time. I have two RMM modified M6 units and considering the output am glad for the added mass and good heat management.
I just ordered the Fandyfire version from FastTech for the $37.64 price. Interesting to see how long it takes as I have had China shipments tale anywhere from a week to a month.
Based on some of the posts here I will check the battery springs board for missing/loose screws as soon as the light arrives. I just replaced all 4 screws on a six LED SRK clone as the heads were totally buggered as received from China and barely snugged down. Noticeable improvement in output. The SRK takes 2.5mm x 5 or 6mm flat head screws in that position stock but I used pan head torx drive stainless steel replacements. Two other SRK clones of recent purchase are only tapped for two screws for the spring board.
My SupFire M6 lights are so much better constructed than the SRKs and my recently arrived Solarstorm T3 and T4 lights that I may just give up on the alternative brands.
The Fandyfire Warrior arrived today, 7/21 so it took less than 10 days to arrive from when ordered. Very fast arrival for an order from China IMO. Clean machining and finish and I like the inset side attachment point for the lanyard. Overall a very clean looking light for the price and the silvery grey finish definitely looks different. Tail cap not glued so came off easily so it should be a simple job to add braid to the battery rear springs. Looks like the battery contact board in the head is pretty well glued in though.
Physically very close match in size to the new Solarstorm T3. The outside diameter of the head is about 2mm larger than the T3 but the reflectors look almost identical. The T3 battery compartment is .5mm smaller in diameter and overall the T3 is about 3mm longer than the Warrior.