The King is dead? Long live the Warrior!!

Mine does this also, I assumed it was because the driver was warm and was leaking. Only stays lit (very very dim) for a few seconds

Well, make sure you put full batteries in and check your voltages since I think this is what the power indicator measures (supposed to). If you put in batteries that were not fully charged, it could easily and accurately go down to 3 lights after 10 minutes. Likewise if your LG laptop pulls dont stay at high voltage long…again same thing could happen.

It really sounds like a battery issue. If its true they measure voltage, the indicator lights will behave like your batteries: some batteries hold higher voltage for longer than others through their power curve as they discharge. And when you turn on a “rested” battery set in a light, it will always be higher voltage for a while, and your “power indicator lights” will say fuller than it is until voltage drops back down.

Did you read the original post?

Did some more testing on brand new Panasonic 3100 protected, fully charged.

light 1, all 4 indicator leds burning.
light 2, all 4 light up then goes to 3 quickly.
light 3, all 4 burning.
light 1, 2nd round, all 4 burning.
light 2, 2nd round, all 4 burning, doesn’t go to three.
light 3, didn’t test.
So who knows, on the second round for light 2, all lit up. The same set of batteries was used in all 3 lights in the order listed.

As for the leds lightly burning after turning off.
light 1, glow.
light 2, no glow.
light 3, glow.
light 1, 2nd round, glow.
light 2, 2nd round, glow.
light 3, didn’t test.
So light 2 is again the oddball, didn’t glow first go around, did on second.

Does any of your “Warriors” get warm pretty fast?
Or if you point it at your hand, how quickly do you feel the heat of light beam?

Maybe I’m being too picky, but after having this light for a couple of days, I have noticed some issues with it. 1-one of the emitters stays lit for 10 seconds after light is turned off. 2- Row of lights indicating remaining battery power never changes (all stay lit). Power button (press&hold)works the first time only 50% of the time. Half the time I have to hold the button down again.
Am I being too picky or should I return the light to Fasttech?

Just tear the guts out of it and rebuild it in your own image.

Well at about 6 min the head on mine is getting pretty warm, the body hardly any change. I do not have an infrared thermometer so I can’t give any specific temps.

Huh??

Same thing here about the power button not always working the first time, don’t know if it’s really a problem or more a consequence of the way it’s designed…….come on warrior’s owners, tell us how the power button works for you !

Well I dont have any of those problems: power indicator lights work smoothly and relatively accurately (I use 2900 mAh Panasonics), buttons work well, and I havent noticed any LEDs still on after turning it off. I got mine from Ric though not Fasttech.

My Warrior does get uncomfortably hot, but its not as difficult to hold hot as SRK or Kung. I think this is due to the XML2s vs XML I have in the SRK/Kung and because of better total hand contact and heat transfer. I have used it on continuous high several times now for about an hour, only having to turn it down to low for a few minutes a couple times (at night and I was jogging/walking fast, hands acting as thermal heat sinks and got sweaty). I wouldnt just leave it on for 1hr though with no airflow/constant hand contact.

But, I cant even do that kind of jogging/walking with SRK and especially not Kung: when I tried with SRK it gets intolerably hot and Kung heats the fastest of all, after 10-12 min it really feels like it will burn me and you have to enjoy pain to hold it by the head. Your hand doesnt wrap around SRK type bodies with lots of contact either like you do with Warrior, and I think this has a lot to do with it.

I have noticed though a couple times I pressed and held power from an angle (not directly down) and that didnt work. This may be what power on complaint people are experiencing? I think this is due to the way the button is designed with the silicone ring over it, you wont get the correct contact that way when pressing at an angle. Look a page back at the picture, with the thick silicone part over the button, if you press from an angle the pressure could go to the surrounding raised portion instead of the central button.

I haven’t noticed any of those things with the power buttons and as far as the leds I ran my light for 10 min and I did lose 1 light which is probably normal, I believe it was the one all the way on the right (as I was holding the light).

I haven’t really used mine a lot. BTW mine is the XM-L U2 version (not the XM-L2 like B42’s). I will keep you other owners posted if I see any strange things going on.

Trying to order some Panasonic 3100’s from Wallbuys for my yet to arrive FT Warrior and get an error, am I doing something wrong on the order or is their website messed up?

“Server Error in ‘/’ Application.
Procedure or function ‘CreateOrderLine’ expects parameter ‘@SKU’, which was not supplied.
Description: An unhandled exception occurred during the execution of the current web request. Please review the stack trace for more information about the error and where it originated in the code.

Exception Details: System.Data.SqlClient.SqlException: Procedure or function ‘CreateOrderLine’ expects parameter ‘@SKU’, which was not supplied.”

Yeah I’m not seeing how 10min and losing one light is a problem either. You actually want this, you want the power indicator to UNDER estimate rather than OVER estimate your power, so that you dont run your batteries too low. You also lose voltage faster at the ends of the curves of discharge, so if they did a straight voltage loss proportion per light, first is triggered a lot faster by design. Take a look here how quickly voltage drops off in the beginning: Battery test-review 18650 comparator Put in the batteries you use, then add others and compare and you can see how different the power lights will act dependent on what batteries you put in too.

EDIT Plus, think of it this way: arbitrarily say you have a total run time of 1hr on a battery (which is close to reality), where would you design the lights to go out? You want to have SOME time at lowest/no lights, so its not a 25% per light ratio in the first place (which is 15min btw). So you’ve got to have each light represent less than 25, so I’m guessing indicators are a rough 80-60-40-20 voltage left estimation when they go off. Then it depends on how you rate the percentages, and I bet its not scientific, but something like “proportion of voltage left 4.2V to 2.8V scale”. This means they have 1.4 total voltage “points” to divide up into the above percentages…if you combine that with the chart you see first light has to go off relatively quickly. This is all a “for example” I dont claim to know how its really set up, but I’m pretty sure its similar and explains the behavior people are complaining about.

Oh someone had asked how quickly do you feel the heat of the beam, quickly within 20 or so seconds with my hand about 1/2” from the lens.

Yeah, that’s what i’m talking about, after seeing the button under the silicon, that makes sense. :slight_smile:

Yes! And take pictures!

Same thing with mine but I never really saw it as an issue. I figured I just had to push directly and not at an angle.

Can you feel or hear the click?
Is the blue buttons very squishy?

I’d try a plastic or metal disk cut to fit under the button, might help with pressing off angle.
Instead one could cut away the perimeter on the inside of the button so it only contacts the center of the switch. \/
I’d rather a non-permanent disk.