Sounds right, see pics here at Flashlight Wiki.
-Garry
I looked at the bond wires, XML had 3, XML2 has 2. But you seem to be questioning my subjective assessment with a completely different subjective assessment of when it gets “warm”, when really due to temperature sensitivity differences, probably all we could agree on is that “warm” is not “hot”. If it gets “warm” just as fast as SRK and you are using your skin as a temperature measurement tool to a different “level” than I did (with a different subset of meanings), and raising and issue of “hot” vs “warm” is so vague its pointless, even if we had the same SRKs, and hot vs “too hot to continuously handle” is even further different…
If a light gets “warm” fast, this can mean it is GOOD at thermal management, not bad (heat is conducted to the light’s body faster). It says nothing about “hot” or output or how handle-able the light is, for example: my little Xiaozhi one cell light gets “warm” (and “hot”) faster than an SRK, but I can still hold it “hot” longer than my SRK or Kung, a stainless steel light gets “warm” slower than SRK but is known to have self-melted before and isnt handle-able…
All I know is Warrior does not get to the point of “burning” sensation in my hand as quickly as my SRK does: I handle the Warrior’s temp on high continuously WITH small breaks at the lower setting here and there running down a mountain, however it is very hot during most of the runtime. Also be aware that my hand is being used as a heatsink throughout (Warrior may increase max temperature higher than SRK if not held). I cant do that as easily with SRK. But its still pretty hot yes and it gets warm pretty fast yes.
nicely said and it makes sense. still pissed at my myself for putting in the batteries backwards, if thats the reason that caused this.
i will never know.
i kinda doubt it though because the first day when everything was fine, my light did not have 3 modes. it went from low to high, low to high.
then the next day when i found out how to use the ui, i started doing the ramping feature, then it gave me the 3 modes, and thats when high mode got all bad.
Sorry to hear it. But, I think if it doesn’t have a designed protection set up for reversed polarity, putting batteries in backwards can be pretty severe on the light and you’re kinda lucky it functioned at all… Maybe they can sell you a new driver or fix it for cheaper than buying a new one?
How did you manage to put em in backwards? Unless its a carrier, doesn’t the positive ALWAYS point towards the head / LEDs??
It’s easy to do if you’re using flattops. I’m very careful, but I’ve caught myself just in time after loading flattops into a light or charger.
Because every single light i own except the king (which i almost did one time also, but luckily caught myself) you unscrew the tail cap , and the large part of the flashlight (the body) is where i insert the batteries, which is along with the head. so i always drop in the batteries with positive going in first.
So when i unscrewed the warrior, which is opposite of all my lights, the large part of the body is separate from the head.
and without noticing and looking at the body im holding, im just automatically assuming the head is attached to the body, so i dropped in the cells like i normally would, positive down.
So yea, thats how i screwed up hahah.
Additional information on the Warrior. The 16mm stars are not epoxied down, they are held in place by pressure from the reflector with a light thermal paste underneath…
I measured a current draw of 7.55A on high using three Panasonic NCR18650PD cells.
Using a light meter and roof bounce test, the light starts off at a max of 118 lux and within 5 seconds, drops down to around 106 lux. I’ll call this major heat sag.
ANYONE in here plan to make a better heatsink for this light?
I’m very happy with mine, so I dont plan to mess with it (have been reluctant to fully pull it apart). But I got mine from CNQG with XML2, so its probably not the same and I run it on high until the battery indicator goes to one light (over an hour) many times, it has gotten very hot and has been reliable; so, although I’m not sure what adhesive is used, and it may be modded for better heat management, it seems sufficient and pretty good at transferring heat (gets hot fast and without hand-heatsink it gets too hot), unless you plan to increase the output, which I’m also not going to do. It seems silly to try to increase output for my purposes, since it will increase the heat and will make it un-handleable for long hikes, or I’d have to go with a lower mode (and the worst thing about this light is PWM).
I think AR coated glass is all I’d like to change at the moment. Unless of course there is an available driver without PWM that does a good job and is easy to change. And oh yes, warm white version with no PWM (is this possible in a ramping light?) would make me buy another!
daym an hour on high straight through is more than amazing! and i was thinking of purchasing the eagletac sx25l3 mtg2 too, maybe i dont need it anymore
Hah, well not straight through, I do drop it to lower modes for a few minutes when it gets to hot, but only a few minutes: its PWM nauseates me too. And, I make sure to have a lot of contact with my hand so I act as a heat sink (this would be uncomfortable in hot weather): if you dont act as a biological heat sink it will get way too hot. I actually use it in cold weather instead of a long sleeve shirt or hat sometimes 
The output does drop too, especially after the first 5-10 min and then again at the end. It is pretty fun though 
Just got my Warrior (L2 version) in and had to re-read this thread to figure out how it operates, since I don’t read Chinese.
I did notice the website it says 2500 lm, and on the box it says 2200 lm. No big deal, since it is what it is, just curious. Maybe the label is used for the XM-L as well.
Overall, I think I am going to like it.
Had mine a week, and I’m loving it, almost about to order a few more to gift or sell to friends, the 2200 lumens is about right ,I think JohnnyMac tested it, I’m no fan of dual switches but this one I like.
2500 lumens is for the XML2 version I think.
Heat and LEDs is like alcohol and your liver: There is apparently no immediate effect but damage is done and is cumulative over time.
Ha, yes true. I still had fun running a few trails with it on high the whole time, no noticeable drop, but I’m running it for tamer amounts of time and switching in more bigger lights for my excursions.
Greets,
I am two days into looking into flashlights from being a total newb. I see the listing on Fasttech, but isn’t anyone concerned the OP was shipped one with the “Warrior” logo whilst he Fasttech page does not show this?
I just like my i’s dotted and my t’s crossed and would like everything pointing to the same product as it is something I am considering and it would be a one-off investment.
It’s a Warrior for sure , don’t hesitate, I’ve just ordered another 2 for my brother and its an awesome light, showed my neighbor and he was drooling to have one!
There are 3 cutouts in the battery tube, the short one is blank, one long one says Fandyfire, one long one says Warrior. The cutout in the first picture is the short one.
Hi I have since found it on DX as a Warrior in the pics but not on the Title/Description. DX Link
I have to say the other one I was looking at was the very well reviewed TrustFire TR-3T6 XM-L T6 Again DX link
Which of these two will have the brightest total output (I am not so sophisticated as yet to discriminate the finer points of beam characteristics :~ ) .
And there was one more thing bothering me - electronics and that is something I know little about - and that was tradition or AKA ‘tried and tested’. Is there any reason to suppose the variable output of the Warrior could be an achilles heel vs the Trusfire’s simpler ‘button push’ system? If it failed somehow would it have a knock-on effect to the whole unit?
LOL Me dither?