The There Are No Stupid Questions Thread

Better cell will make the flashlight hotter.

I have some experience with emsiar DW4. This light has lumex1 boost and maximum tailcap amps should be ~12A. When I first got the light, I did not have high quality flat tops available so I used a salvaged sinowatt cell from a mobile battery pack.

When using the salvaged cell, I could get pretty good turbo from the light but it would really fast step down without getting hot enough for the thermal protection to kick in. Extra amps also made the cells voltage sag badly. This was kicking the high modes out of regulation - I think. Directly after turboing the light, the lamp would show really low voltage readings (<2.5V) from which the cell would recover in less than a minute.

I bought a high drain Molicel P30B cell to get all out of the light. With that cell the light will warm up fast, and the thermal ceiling is the only thing that keeps heat at check.

I’d recommend buing a quality cell for high power light. The light should have own thermal contol. If it does not, you can always run lower output to keep the light cool.

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I don’t need them but I bought three of them anyway. Sounds like flashaholic / addictive behavior!

$38 for three cells with the shipping included in that price. The cells are $8.99 each around $9 and some cents shipping.

5 x LHP73b in something like M21A/C

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I had some problems finding the 50PL in the US. I found these today and bought 4 of them:

They are still advertising them as 125 amp cells. Not sure if they are pre-production or not.
@thefreeman Have you seen a data sheet on the production cells showing the 50 amp rating? I have looked, but came up empty.

Edited to remove link to outdated datasheet.

Mooch said in his latest Patreon post that the datasheet version B/C only lists a 50A max continuous current rating. the 125A temp-limited and 180A pulse ratings were in version A.
he didn’t link to the datasheet.

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Thanks!

I did find other places where the CDR is rated at 50 amps. 125 is 80 degree C temp limited. Interesting the latest data sheet removed that last part.

They should not be advertising them as 125 amp cells… without qualification.

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Well, it’s not like they invented it, but yeah it’s not up to date.

Also I want to point out that Tenpower 50XG and Reliance RS50 have basically the same performances, so if they are easier to source/cheaper, these are great options as well.

edit : oh right I see they’re not saying it’s temp limited, so yes, bad information regardless of datasheet version.

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Is the datasheet I linked to wrong?

It’s version A, so with the existence of version B and C it’s obsolete.

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That’s where I bought them.

Is there a reliable way of modifying existing drivers to output a slightly higher voltage, to offset voltage drop caused by longer leads to the mcpbc that would likely occur? I haven’t done testing, but after a foot or more I’d assume that output voltage will suffer a significant drop.

I assume once one figured the schematics it would be a matter of desoldering and swapping in a different resistor(s)?

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I know this is an old post, but I got my roll of tape from MTN Electronics. it’s 3/8" I believe. I’m on the lookout for a wider tape.

:grinning_face:

I was searching the forum for content on linear lighting (led tape), and there doesn’t seem to be much coverage of the topic.
I’m no guru, but I have a decent bit of experience with it and with wled, and I think that it’s up this community’s alley.
Where should I go abouts posting a wled/linear lighting thread? It seems like none of the categories/sub-categories are really suitable.
Unless this is intentional, and folks prefer having this forum solely focused on portable handheld lighting (?)

Post it in LED Light Bulbs - BudgetLightForum.com , that’s where fixed lighting is discussed.

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Yeh, I’d bite.

First question would be why they use shiite for glue that unpeels in like a week. :joy::roll_eyes:

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Merry XmasšŸŽ„

What would be the cause of this?

A runtime test done exactly the same for all three batteries. Same light same increments same rest time etc etc.

The 50s, the 50pl and the BAK 45d.

At about 1 minute 30 seconds of the first 2 minute increment both BAK cells lost a significant amount of output. The light, L21B secret LED… turns on at 6,000 lumens. So after that amount of time it’s got to be 5,000 lumens. And my guess is it dropped at least 2,000 lumens. The 50s and the 50pl did not do that. The only thing I can think of is a drastic loss of amps and it’s supposed to be able to push at least 35 amps.

Strangely enough it seemed to do okay for the rest of the test. But the first two minutes is what drains the battery the most no matter what flashlight or battery I’m using.

All the batteries are new. I’m recycling one of the BAK’s and I demoted the other one to a light I don’t use that much!

What prompted me to do this I noticed it when I would use it outside. I’m thinking why is this light losing so much output when I just turn it on a minute and a half ago?

What do you think the cause was?

My first guess would be that it is over-spec’d, but Mooch has tested the 45D and everything looks good. Although I noticed he lists it at 30/60A and 18650batterystore says 60/80A which is quite a difference.

Possibly it has higher internal resistance than it is supposed to? Do you have a way of testing that? Sounds just like bad voltage sag or something.

In the ā€œnew and unread topicsā€ part at the bottom, is there any way to flag particular threads as ā€œidgafā€ so I don’t see that same thread listed… Every… Single… Time?

Like I click on ā€œamazing temu lights!!ā€ just for the lulz, poke through, have zero interest in anymore, yet every damned time it’s there as one of those listed threads.

So how do I make those tainted threads go away?

(Yelling at the screen doesn’t seem to work.)