I guess the part I don’t understand then is how much battery voltage I need to hit 20A on a 3Vf emitter. Intuitively it seems like 3.7v would be enough but is this where voltage sag comes in? And if for that reason 3.7v is not enough to hit 20amps, why can’t the turbo continue to function at, say, 15 amps?
I have found that I was wrong about that. That is not always the case, with UG and 365/395nm light. 395 light just helps to weed out other florescent glass types while hunting in the store, apparently.
I do know that most manganese glass doesn’t glow at all under 395nm unless it’s very high content. I found a broken piece of something (can’t tell what it used to be) and it is such high content manganese and had been outside under the sun for so long the glass turned purple. It glows wonderfully with my 365nm S12. Just faintly with my crappy 395nm light.
I really just want a better 395nm light, since I just have a 24x 5mm LED cheapo one, though at least it works with an 18500 instead of the 3xAAA holder thing.
I might just end up ordering a triple channel D4K with a 395nm channel eventually. Maybe I’ll ask Jackson if he can do CH2 in 365nm and CH3 in 395. Likely won’t be any time soon though.
I got a few 395 modules back in the day that I slapped into '501s. Need filters, but not nearly as badly as you’d need them for 365s. Nice to have vs essential.
There were some UV C8s floating around back in the day. Not necessarily high power, but a way more concentrated beam.
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3V emitters have variable Vf over current, they are never just 3V, so this might be a convergence of voltage sag and rising Vf. Look at the two example graphs below - at 20A even the EVE50PL, a very high CDR cell, drops ~0,25V almost immediately (and this might be exaggerated at lower voltages, not sure about that), while eg. the LHP73B, a pretty low Vf emitter, it’s Vf raises to ~3,15V at 20A. Might be with Your cell+emitter setup this can’t support over 10A. Or might be the driver doesn’t activate turbo if it lands outside of the capabilities? But the last part is pure conjecture
That’s what I’m wondering too. Because there is turbo for a while, it just doesn’t seem to be available past a certain point. When I was having this happen, I swapped in a 26800 with slightly more charge from another light and Turbo worked immediately. Up until then I thought it was some kind of a bug. Thinking back though, the cell I tried was a green cell from Convoy. I’ll have to see how the green one behaves at 3.7v.
I do have an M21A with the SBT-10X 365nm I got during the closing sale of spicy3dprints, that’s where the S12 came from as well. The M21A has an absolutely tiny hotspot, both have the ZWB lenses.
I put blue lighted switches and blue gitd (glow green) boots in both. I barely use the M21A but the S12 is nice. Forget which LEDs it has.
What is the difference between these two leds? They are both green so… Is one more preferred than the other?
There are others who will be able to better explain this, but I’ll tell you what I know. These might also be known as W1 green.
The .F1 one is just a regular green LED, and with its beam, you will still be able to see the colors on objects. It has very bad CRI, but you can still tell colors apart. It is very slightly a yellowish green.
The .13 one is narrow-band green, not sure of the wavelength. It might appear to be slightly darker or deeper green. Since it’s a monochrome emitter, you will not be able to tell the colors apart of whatever you are shining it on.
I have both the CSLNM1.F1 and the CSLNM1.13, although I have not put the .13 into a light yet. The .F1 is amazing in a light with a big smooth reflector like the Noctigon K1 (what I have) and it is very intense. When I ordered it, that was the furthest throwing LED available. I’m not sure if the narrow-band .13 version would be more or less intense.
Edit: my profile picture here on BLF is my K1 with the CSLNM1.F1 led, just to give you somewhat of an idea on the color.
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Would using an interval timer set at 20 seconds on then 20 seconds off be a bad thing for a cheap AM-FM radio?
The cycle time may be a little different but I didn’t know what that many on-off’s would do. The switch would not be moving just the power going to it would cycle.
It was going to be on talk radio for a predator deterrent.
It shouldn’t.
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Might bebetter to find a rap station… that should scare them…
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Good one.
Does anyone know of an adapter to be able to use 2S 26800 in place of 3 D cells? Trying to modernize a Husky triple emitter light, and the stock 4.5V alkaleak setup just won’t cut it.
I’ve found multiple 3D printed 2S 26650 adapters online, but would much prefer to use the larger batteries.
D cell is 62mm long, and 3 of them would be 186mm.
A pair of 26800s would be 160mm, more or less.
Can’t just roll yer own with PVC tubing or somesuch, and just stick a spring in there to take up the slack?
22mm left over is almost a inch, though. Might be better to just put a filed-down nail through a wooden plug for most, then let the come-with spring do its thing.
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Maybe something like this with some 26mm convoy spacers sandwiched between the cells?
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Didn’t really think of that honestly. I wonder if I can find some that’s around 1.25" OD × 1" ID and possibly somehow bore it out a bit? If the pipe measurements are exact (and exist in that size) the ID would have to come out a millimeter or two. Might run to the hardware store tomorrow and see.
I have one of those somewhere. Bought two, one’s in my L7, but don’t know where the other one went. I got about 165mm length with that spacer between the two 26800s. A flat top battery will work fine with the spring setup this will use, but I thought about putting one of those adapters on top of each battery. So yeah there’s still about a 22mm difference, but the springs on either end will have a bit of wiggle room.
I wonder if I could rig up something with an integrated charging port, kinda but not really like the Noctigon K1 or K9.3, that thing’s about the same diameter I think.
However now that checked again, I don’t think Simon sells a 2S driver with 3-4.2V output in 22mm. Due to the design of this pill, I can’t really use anything larger than about 23mm. Guess I could figure out a way to wire the batteries in parallel, to match the 3V output, or just go with a driver from MTN or somewhere else.
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Wiring the batteries in parallel would actually simplify the whole spacer thing between the batteries tbh.
You could literally use a dowel or something, since they would need to be electrically isolated from eachother anyways.
That may be the way to go.
For the tube, you could use a slightly bigger ID and shim the cells with thin orings for a tighter fit.
With a couple of those 26mm convoy spacers, you could easily solder wire leads to the contacts spacers to get 1s 2p config.
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I may end up doing trying to rig up a parallel setup, if only to get the light working sooner, but mostly since I can use a 3V8A driver that I already have. The MCPCB is 3x 3535 in parallel already, just deciding on emitters. I’ll be going to the store later today to see what I can work with, thanks!
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Are there any specific lights that at meant to be worn around the neck?
I sometimes wear a headlamp and it gets bothersome so i drop it to my neck and it works almost as good, seems a tradeoff.
Those “reading lights” that are horseshoe-shaped…