The address was correct,
I was looking for a thrower that would fit in a C8 holster or something similar.
Will check out the threads. Thank you again and I really appreciate your time.
Who knows how to get in contact with Nightwatch (the flashlight brand)? My Taobao chat tool does not work currently. I would have a few questions about the NSX4.
Other manufacturers have an Aliexpress store or even a BLF account where you can bother them with questions. With Nightwatch I never found any other possibility to contact them apart from their Taobao store.
I know the SBT90.2 is a nice competitor but only because itâs a 3v led instead of a 6v led like the XHP70.2.
The latter one has still a higher (potential) output.
Using a 6v led isnât a problem, only need to find a suitable driver for it to drive it with some decent amps. Somewhere around 8 or 10A.
Still need to figure out the cell configuration. Right now I was thinking to use 2s high drain 18650âs. Though might change it to 21700âs, however that would require some major redesign.
Cree CXB3590 will do about 16,000 lumen. Its 36v so you need a boost driver and a 12v source. The one driver I know of uses a rotary knob instead of a button. So not very practical.
As far as âregularâ leds itâs the 70.2 as it can be driven at around 20 amps at 6v (over 6,000 lumen). At only 8 to 10 amp it is around the same output as the 90.2 when it is pushed hard, about 5000-5300 or so.
Newbie here, with my first of (likely) many stupid questions. Iâm close to pulling the trigger on an Anduril UI driven light, but Iâm excited for many of the muggle-friendly features discussed in ToyKeeperâs Anduril (Rev 2) update. When Anduril Rev 2 is released, will there be an easy way to update current Anduril UI with the new operating system? Thanks!
There is no easy way. Youâll need to reprogram the MCU. Some lights need a clip and some use pins to make the contact. Some lights need to have the driver removed, some donât.
3535 boards are extremely common - though 14mm is an unusual size.
I know some 4040 LEDs have been reflowed on 3535 but it is very challenging and probably reduces performance. If I couldnât find 14mm 3535, Iâd file down a 16mm.
What happens if you stack an extra 7135 on a fet +1 driver? Would it matter if its the BLF A6 fet +1 driver vs the Mtn fet +1? Is it as simple as, low mode is now ~700ma instead of 350? or something else? Would different firmware change the result of doing this?
What about if you soldered on a slave board of 5 or 10 7135âs instead of just stacking one? Same result, low mode is now whatever the 7135âs put out?
Those COBâs are indeed very high output in a single package. That driver does sound interesting, do you mind sharing that driver?
Though I was talking about the âregularâ leds. So the 70.2 is still king of the leds when looking at raw power.
After some driver search I think itâs better to go to 12 A. It gives a nice boost in output and would still be doable.
Unfortunately my power supply only goes to 5 A so cant test the setup at those power levelsâŚ
You basically have the right idea. The 7135 channel outputs a PWM signal designed to produce a certain brightness within this range of 0.35A. Do keep in mind that it will screw up the brightness ramp. Like the Low mode may now be as bright as the Med mode. So what used to be Low Med High may now be closer to Med Med High. Youâd need to change the firmware to get the brightness ramp back to being smooth. This is why no one really stacks 7135 chips on FET+1 drivers.
The whole point of the extra 7135 channel is just to get a lower moonlight level. A single FET can do the whole range of brightness, but moonlight is a struggle to be dim enough.
I would consider the Sofirn SP33 v3 3500lm. It has a ramping mode, 5000K or 6500K, usb charging, is bright, decent throw, good size hotspot, 26650 size gives long runtime and handles heat well. Budget friendly price.
The â33 is a nice light (all of the above), but again being Mr Glass Half-Empty, if you get a âdecent flooderâ and crank up the lemons to try seeing far, your immediate foreground will be stoopit-bright and wash out anything the hotspot could reach. And a throwier light without blinding spill wonât be a good flooder, kinda by definition.
I keep beating this dead horse, but nothing beats 2 lights, one flooder and one thrower.
Best might be a zoomie like a Z1. Then you kinda get the best of both worlds(?).
2 lights are good, but my 2 are the SP33 and SP70. Little and big. Lol. There is no one light that does it all. Maybe those dual pattern lights that have flood patterns and a seperate single reflector for throw, but they are usually big and expensive.
Acebeam x10, Fenix LR40R, Ledlenser has their focus technology, etcâŚ
âBetweenâ is almost always a compromise that tries to do both but does neither very well.
Even just going outside for a few minutes, Iâll take my E03 with diffusion film as a flooder, and âmicro if I want throw. Anything else is one of those lousy compromises.
Iâm in the same boat. I was very tempted⌠but Iâd like to see it offered with other emitters. I donât need 10k lumens on turbo, especially since it doesnât last but a handful of seconds.