One of the study cited
So you get some people that prefer greenish tints, some neutral tints, and a majority who prefer rosy tints, some to a somewhat extreme degree, which even me who like rosy tint finds surprising.
What I find interesting is figure 11 where instead of asking what tint is best, they ask what tint is not acceptable, at high CCTs while greenish tints are found not acceptable by more people, the difference isnât large, however at low CCTs much more people find greenish/yellowish tints unacceptable.
Anyway this isnât an enthusiast fad (not saying you said that, but there are people who claim that), itâs probably just personal preference though.
Hmm interesting. I think their tests lack a practical aspect though.
I would like to see some hands-on activities in the testing. For example:
Finding objects on the ground along a pitch-black wooded hiking path. Let them choose a light, and measure times and number of objects retrieved
Retrieving/installing parts in a cramped crawlspace.
Reading a book in a tent
Assembling something extremely fine on a table in a poorly lit room with a flashlight to supplement
Changing a tire by the side of the road at night
What I get from the study here is that in a very controlled environment, people liked pinkish light and saturated colors. I wonder it that necessarily correlates to what they would choose to use in a situation where they needed light to complete a task.
Upward ramp turnoff can usually be solved by doing the loosening/tightening sequence of the head and tail. I donât think there is a reset for the first batch.
If there is no 13H reset (early version) you can do the normal reset by using 2 wires, apply one end of the 1st wire to the GND and switch ring (signal tube ring) on the driver, and the other end to batt-, then use the second wire to connect batt+ and the positive spring on the driver.
Loosen both the head and tail cap. Tighten the tail cap first and then tighten the head second. Most of the FW3A troubles result from the inner tube not seating properly. Sometimes the driver is not seated properly or the retainer ring is loose. Also clean all contact points with alcohol and a cue tip.
The study was aimed more toward determining a subjective consumer color quality preference for indoor lighting to guide the industry for the next generation of LED lighting. I donât think anyone that preferred pinkish and highly saturated light would opt for desaturated or greenish tinted light while performing tasks.
I imagine there are lots of reasons to. If itâs the kind of pocket clip you prefer, itâs more expensive that the cheapest one, but just because it costs as much as some budget lights doesnât mean itâs not worth it if you really like it.
Since it does make it easier to hold a flashlight and something else, it might be useful for some types of photography. Or holding your OC spray.
Since group 7 tops out at 50%, are the strobes reduced power also? In other words, can I get more runtime in group 7âs bike strobe mode than group 1 or group 4?
Anyone here ever put together a âbasic maintenance & troubleshooting kitâ list for flashlights?
Something like this:
microfiber cloth for cleaning glass
toothbrush for cleaning debris from crevices
thin plastic disc (cut from any plastic containers) to shield battery from circuit (if no physical lockout possible)
paper clip for cleaning holes or pushing small tethers/strings through lanyard holes
mini battery tester for quick check of battery viability (doesnât need to be super accurate, just general reading)
battery case for spare batteries, tube preferrable
Btw, discovered that a knitting needle can come in handy. My old Olight S2A had been loaned to a friend for a while. They had replaced the batteries with Duracell AAâs. I had forgotten to check⌠and as it turns out, those @#$%^&! Duracells leaked. Iâve posted about these before. Duracells are Duraleaks. You can be nearly guaranteed that they will leak if in a circuit that is mostly off, like backup flashlights and remotes. Iâve had DOZENS of Duracell leaks, compared to just one from Energizers (over 10 years ago). OK, so I take out the cells. White & green powder galore. I clean out the light tube and tail cap. But⌠Iâm having trouble inserting new cells. WTH? Turns out some of the leakage corroded the inner tube wall. It was jutting out enough to obstruct battery movement. How the heck would I clean it out? Well, I took a knitting needle and using the back end with the large round âheadâ, I could scrape that over the corrosion. I was able to scrape it down until smooth enough that a battery cell could get by it. So, from now on, Iâm making sure I keep a knitting needle in my flashlight junk drawer of DIY & MacGyver tools.
While youâre spending money, these can make you cry a little. BRM is known for flex-hones but they make all kinds of stuff. These mini tube brushes are hands down the best you can get and thereâs just no comparison to all the cheapies out there (if you can find them in these small sizes that arenât the wimpy soft nylon type for paint guns or carburetor jets). Looks like amazon is out of all of them but they make them in SAE or metric, stainless or nylon. I grabbed a set of each in stainless when they were at bargain prices of I think $38âŚyay covid stimulus. But gosh darn am I glad I got them. Havenât needed them for lights of course but just general shop tool stuff. The pin vise that comes with them is the meh type with two double-ended collets but fine for this use.
