If I were to choose a failproof thrower flashlight into urban exploration of a miles long pitch black underground tunnel system, is the Thrunite Catapault v6 or the Manker U22 more reliable? Is my Sofirn SP31T as good as either, or is a Zebralight SC600 MKIV more failproof than all 3? Or is the Armytek Barracuda Pro the most failproof relatively compact thrower? Can I depend on my SP31T to be failproof or do I need to spend money to buy something else?
You can certainly get extremely reliable flashlights, but nothing is ever perfect.
The best flashlight in the world won’t do you any good if you drop it and the cell fails. It happens; there have been a few “torture tests” where the light survived, but the cell didn’t. Always carry spare cells.
It is a very good idea to choose primary and backup lights that can use the same type of cell. That way, you won’t get into a situation where you have a dead light with charged cells, but you’ve used up the cells that fit the working light and you can’t swap them over.
I think you have that reversed. I have only one 18650/26650 light that requires button-tops (BLF Q8). All others either require flat tops (such as Zebralights), or work fine with flat tops (anything with springs or posts at the positive end).
They’re one of the few LED mfrs that make high-CRI LEDs.
If you notice how if you’d use a CW (cool-white, ie, bluish-white) LED when looking at, say, a woodgrain cabinet, it’ll look a dull dingy grayish-brown color. With even low-CRI warm-white, reds and browns will “pop” and be much more vibrant.
High-CRI means that whatever color-temperature you’d have — cool, warm, or neutral — you’d be able to see truer colors as if under natural daylight, that blues will look blue, reds will look red, etc. Differences can be very subtle, and you’ll hear things like “R9 value” and such, which is a shade of red that lots of LEDs have problems handling.
Nichias were (probably?) the first to offer high-CRI LEDs, ’though now others are starting.