More photos in the OP.
Some images just grab you! This is a truly beautiful image...of what will be a beautiful light. Every time I visit this thread, I seem to migrate to this picture!! Great work OL!!! Interesting build thread as well. We always learn watching you!!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge & talents. Dan.
I agree wholeheartedly Dan, I wonder if the copper could be glued into the head and just screw the lens/bezel on and leave it like that? A big fat honkin mule! 
Your Nichia might survive. Djozz tortured one on copper to much higher currents.
Extraordinary orsm work as usual. Reading with interest. 
Updated with more photos. It's slow going right now. Hopefully, this week end will be better for working in the shop.
Lots of work! When you screw down the sink and pad like that, there is little doubt of heat transfer being all it can be!!!
The lens idea is astonishing! What would it do...(besides complicate things) if you didn't paint but used a mirror finish tinting on the surrounding lens??? Would that stick to the plastic like it will glass?? 
Any way you do it will be GREAT... just trying my best to get you into all the trouble I can!!
Dan.
Oh man, that Mt-g2 maglight from the front is going to be :heart_eyes:
Stunning work!
Neat idea Dan, when off it will appear to have a mirror finish around the TIR, when on you’ll see the glow from inside surrounding the intense hot spot of the TIR at work. If you can look at it that is.
A tint shop should easily have some scrap pieces of the mirror tint to play around with, shouldn’t cost anything to try. Clean the plastic lens good on the inside, cut the mirror tint to fit, peel off the clear layer and spray it with a fine mist of soapy water (this is needed to activate the glue) and press it on. “Squeegee” it off with a credit card or old windshield wiper blade.
OL has just gotta love us! I have never put the film on plastic but I would think it should stick. I'll have to play with that a little sometime. I have a customer that uses two, three, four different shades of the film on a car window and makes designs using it. He did a picture of a dog awhile back that was sure stunning.
Can't wait to see these red lights done!! These should be neat!
Dan.
I used to have an 83 Ford 1 ton Diesel with the Texas flag waving in the back window, custom made with Red, Blue and Silver film by hand. Not me, but a very talented individual. Miss that ol truck.
Well... you gotta figure I have done film before. I have customized many vehicles in my earlier years, from interiors and stereo systems, to film, vinyls, paint, add-ons, etc. Don't get me started on that stuff... I don't know if I would like the tint and seeing the stray light. Just not sure, but it's something to ponder.
OL, you do it and we will all love it! 
Paint, film, bubble gum, .... just smear something on there!! I have another thought or two about that double lens deal.... but I'll refrain for now. 
Dan.
Not much progress, but many wrecks. One photo added and that's it till a new 2AAA light comes in, so I can do it all over again...
This is why I don't make builds for others, because if I ruin it, I have to replace it and it kills any profit in it.
I love the contrast between the red and silver. Looks very nice.
Here's some glam shots of the D and AA light. I will do some beam shots tonight. The AAA light is a week away.
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Beam Shots
2AA light
There are the 2AA light with a single 14500 and a dummy cell, on High. Pure Flood.
MT-G2 1-1/2D Light
Stepped down all the way to 1/125 second, to get an idea of the beam. This is at 3 feet. It's a pure flood light. See the yellow spots? It's there in every MT-G2 light I have seen and it's why I prefer the SST-90 led. Can't get rid of it because it's the way the die is made. That super rough pyramid texture of the die produces the "spots", even with a TIR optic!
Using 4x16340 Efest IMR and it draws a steady 4.5 amps on high. It's all flood and in a short distance it covers everything around, but it peters out after about 100 yards or so.
Here's the trio. The 2AAA light is done.
Here's an indoor beam shot of the 2AAA light
Wow, beautiful! Beamshots on the TIR MTG2 needed!
Also, what is being used to strip the ano?
Very, very nice.
Beautiful polishing work to bring the finish of these up, nicely done Justin! Really loving that chrome around the switch, must’ve been a bugger to achieve.
Greased Lightning, Home Depot. I use a clear plastic storage container, like you can get in wal-mart and sit the parts in the bottom. I pour in Greased lightning and cover the parts and about an inch higher. Different lights take different amounts of time, as do different colors. It can take anywhere from an hour to several hours if you have a lot of parts.
In a small container, like a 2 quart container, it would take about an hour to do a 2D bezel. If you had the tail cap in there too, it will take more like two hours. The hardest surfaces are horizontal, the easiest are vertical. The cleaner works best on vertical surfaces because as the color and anodizing sluff off, they can separate easier on a vertical surface.
Parts need to be turned on their side after a while, like a tail cap, so the horizontal surface is vertical. All parts need to be turned upside down, because any surface right on the bottom will not have the anodizing removed, so it needs to be exposed. The very longest to do is something on an interior surface that's hidden, like the inside of the tail cap. I take parts out every half hour, drop them in water and clean them with steel wool, to loosen/remove the outer layer. Then I put them back in and wait longer, till all the color layer and the anodized layer is gone. Remember that the color layer is above the actual anodizing layer and the anodizing layer is silver, so it's hard to know when it's gone. I can tell because the anodizing layer is a slightly flat looking silver and the bare aluminum is a bright shiny silver when I clean it with steel wool.