ok i see, not magnet wire but more like the solid wrap wire for prototyping boards, aka wirewrap boards.
That is such beautiful work.
That looks fantastic, nice work!
There are different classes of magnet wire. Class H is a real pain to remove the insulation.
The green and red stuff is a much lower temperature class and as such is much easier to remove the coating.
magnet wire is nice. i also like kynar wrap wire (most often use 30awg) for signals. and ptfe coated stranded if i need a bit more ampacity.
for stripping (enameled) magnet wire, i dislike burning it off. seems a bit unpredictable how much comes off. sure, you can remove excess and then trim the exposed conductor to length, but sometimes the part closest to the unaffected insulation is only partially removed.
imo best to remove it with abrasion. i use a tool specifically made for the job:
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00202BULY/
knipex 15 11 120
Stripping Tweezers for coated wire
makes it easy to remove only the amount of insulation that you want.
you can get different blades for it, but so far i haven’t needed to replace the one that comes with it (for Ø 0.6mm)
interesting. i have probably never used magnet wire with low temp ‘solderable’ enamel.
That’s because it doesn’t exist.
And he wasn’t using magnet wire—it was wirewrap ~32AWG
That doesn’t look like wire wrap to me.
There are different types of polymers used for magnet wires, polyurethane being one that melt at lower temperature, it might also have a formula that melts better than normal polyurethane magnet wire.
Nice job as always!
Huh. Never seen those before. I may have to look into them more if I have another motor winding/modifying project in the future.
For ~18ga and larger, I just use a knife to scrape the heavy build class H wire but for smaller stuff I’ve honestly not found a method that I liked. Several years ago, I had a pile of motors to reconfigure the windings of and they were wound with a sort of Litz wire that was just awful to work with. I think the motor industry uses a noxious hot chemical treatment to strip the wires but that’s not really something any normal person can do.
nah. just from looking at freeman’s pics, it’s clear he used magnet wire.
yeah, at first i used an iron or tin pot and hated it.
then i used scissors and hated it.
then i used a fiberglass scratch brush, and it was sort of ok but annoying because it only worked on one side at a time, and you have to hold the wire against a flat surface. if you don’t have one, it’s still an important tool to have though, and it’s cheap. i use it to remove soldermask from PCBs to expose traces to tap into a signal if an exposed pad/via doesn’t already exist. or to do board repair if a trace burned out or whatever.
now i use that tool from knipex, and i think it’s not bad. my favorite thing so far, but to be fair, i’ve never tried low temp enamel magnet wire. maybe it really is easiest to use an iron with that stuff? i’m skeptical though.
if you’re doing a serious magnet wire project, maybe you want to get some of the extra blades in different tooth diameters. that will help you get maximum contact area with the wire for faster stripping. otherwise you’ll have to rotate the wire more and use the tool more times. adds up on a big project.
Thanks
Some color measurements :
Pretty decent.
Corona at 5/7 : CCT = 3324K (Duv 0.0028) , so there is some tint shift but it’s reasonable, incomparably better than XHP50.2, even sliced
i love your slim pcb overlay board for aux lights. very cool.
btw, what’s that thin pcb style called? i’ve seen stuff like it for example in the video game modchip industry.
Thanks.
It’s simply called Flexible PCB , Flex PCB or FPCB/FPC. it’s usually fairly costly but Oshpark has a flex service at 10$/inch², making it affordable for small boards
oh cool. i figured it was a thin fiberglass board. didn’t look like a flex for some reason.
good job.
That looks surprisingly good…inasmuch as I can visualize it from the data. Do you have any idea how much of the dome is left on the surface? Hard to tell from the photo but did you get it down to like 0.5mm or so? This is really a neat mod, all around.
I used a 1mm washer, that leaves maybe 0.2~0.3mm of silicone above the phosphor layer ? no dome left.
An XHP50.3 HI is 1mm thick, so that’s basically the same thing.
Wow excellent work thefreeman! If this can fit into my empty FW3X host I will definitely be ordering a few of them.
I tried to take a reflow video but I forgot to set the quality to max :
1 Thank
The video is still clear enough. Very nice. How do you reflow the components on the battery side of the driver, hot air?