???
The light already comes with one, the big round flat thing under the 3-up MCPCB. You just put the new individual boards directly on top where the original was. You may need to drill some new holes for the wiring.
Not all of them have anything under the 3 up. One of my last ones simply had a large 3up that sat on the shelf. I flipped it upside down so I had a flat aluminum surface to put the sinkpads on then I epoxied washers onto what had been the top. I put about a dozen of them in then I epoxied the entire “pill” in place. I folded some aluminum foil to stick around the “pill” so it was in there very tight. This definitely helped transfer heat to the body of the light and out. Worked like a charm. De-domed and still had way more lumens than stock and it stayed bright much longer.
Can you guys tell me how to measure current on SRK style lights? As it really does not have a tail cap, but more like a head cap.
There most definitely is a tailcap.
Make something, anything, to contact the end of all 4 cells at once.
I just built one of these pretty much exactly like in the OP: XM-L2 T6 3C on 16mm Noctigon, 22 AWG silicone wire, shaved spacers, braided tailcap springs. This thing is as bright on low as my good SRK that runs almost 8 amps with an AR lens. On high it is almost the exactly equal in output and beam pattern to my MT-G2 ZY-T08 at 6.5+ amps, but warmer. This is a really impressive SRK style light.
Next step: 105C so I can get some lower modes in this thing. The PWM of the stock driver isn't bad at all, just wish it had a few lower modes.
This is posted in two different threads, because the two lights exchanged a bunch of parts...
I now have one with XML2 T6 3Bs on Sinkpads, one with 4Cs on Sinkpads, and this one with the 6x stuff, unknown cool white XML2s, copper-pinned 6-up MCPCB, and the kewl 'JB' driver. 8)
If anyone has a way to measure (or even estimate), I’d love to hear how many lumens these things put out.
Based on the MT-G2 comparison and match’s output curves, I’m guessing about 3000 lumens?
A good stock old-style SRK does around 1700-1800 actual lumens OTF, right? I have a stock one for comparison but can only do ceiling bounce numbers, should be able to give a general idea if the numbers from the stock one are known.
Basic ceiling bounce levels in lux, so just as a comparison to a known light, the stock CNQG SRK - stock driver, stock everything, the head's never even been disassembled. All lights using the same set of 4 INR18650-20Rs.
93.5 - stock 'Securitying' SRK clone, 3x XML cool white (unknown actual bin/tint)
100 - stock CNQG SkyRay King, 3x XML T6 3C
245(!!) - modified 'Securitying' SRK clone, 3x XML2 T6 3B
The seller does not send to Canada?
Can anyone find another source to purchase the same light?
Thanks!!!
The specific ebay listing we've been buying is listed in their 'US store', hence why it ships to US only. Try this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/161124217671
Also, look up 'ePathDirect' on Amazon. Same people.
Thanks for the quick reply comfy,
Which light is the best at the current moment to mod?
The link you just sent me does work. Excellent.
Is 3LED or 4LED better?
I see other people posting other ones…
Please advise, thanks in advance!
That's an awfully big can o' worms right there. You're just going to have to read and research and decide for yourself.
To me, the 3x lights have a nicer beam profile. I haven't ever had a 4x version. I do have a 6x, and while it is damn bright, it has a very messy beam with rings and artifacts and just general ugliness.
Ah right on, I am thinking of getting the 4x version with the JB board another member posted up about.
I realized now that there is a lot of work to be done, such as removing the XM-L2 emitters off the single plate and soldering them on to some sink plates.
A lot more work than I thought 
however it will be a fun project!
This post encouraged me to mod my SkyRay King 4x XML2 and unfortunately I have the basic driver, like all the other SRK out there. Anyways, all I did was swap out the 28GA wire to 22ga and OMFreakinG!!! Feels like a new flashlight. I swear this badboy has about twice as much flood as my TM26 now, albeit it has nowhere near the throw the TM26 has, but I must say, this thing is AMAZING. Can’t believe I just figured this out so late. Makes me wonder if maybe the wire in my TM26 might need an upgrade as well! Maybe I can hit 4500 lumens in my TM26! Anyways thanks for the motivation post!
Thanks for sharing. Will now open up some of my SRKs and see what’s inside.
This is what I wanted to do but I found out that the screws of my SRK clone tailcap was stuck up (all bent and one had no head at all) making it impossible to remove without destroying it.
What I did was connect the positive ends of the unprotected Sanyo 2600 mAh cells instead (similar layout with the above pic) and use an extra wire to connect it to the positive of the head to take the readings. It was a VERY BAD IDEA.
When the positive end accidentally touched the negative of the SRK head, it sort of welded itself turning the flashlight very hot and burning my hand in the process. Not wanting to lead it to an explosion, I just took the pain and pulled the wires and all with a pair of pliers hence cutting off the circuit. If I had’t read the explosive potential of lithium ion cells here in BLF and left it alone, it could have lead to something much worse.
My SRK is still working but its negative springs were ‘melted’ that I could no longer use unprotected cells. I cannot replace it either because of the stuck screws. I hope this will warn others not to do the same stupid mistake that I did.
did you get twice the flood vs stock form?
Hey Nightbird95. You can just drill out the screws and replace it with a piece of copper sheet. You can put a spring or piece of plastic to push it against the battery tube. This might help you picture it.
Wow! Thanx ImA4Wheelr!