i see ” IPX-8” on the last one… these have a hard time keeping water out in just light rain. i like to know how they did their IPX-8 testing for water proofness ! :bigsmile:
Did you get the neutered driver as well…mine came with only one of the channels with components on it, and pics on reflowing the the emitters onto sinkpads, mine are all on one large metal disk that doesn’t seem like it would be able to pull much heat, I am thinking of getting a metal washer and epoxying it to the bottom at least to give it some more mass (I did put artic silver on the outer ring where it sits on the body machined shelf but I doubt it’s effective)
What I might end up doing is getting a thin sheet of copper, build a template, and solder that over the ring the batteries spin on...making it a little bit stronger, at least it would wear instead of that very thin PCB anodized trace
The contact ring on the driver isn't anodized, it's gold plated copper.
Adding mass is useless. All the heat still has to go through the same contact area between the shelf and the rest of the light. Mine shown here are running at 14-15 amps (or whatever) and are fine with just 16mm Sinkpads sitting on the stock flat aluminum plate.
The stock 3-LED PCB is no good not because it's made of aluminum, but because as with all 'normal' Al MCPCBs there's an insulating layer between the aluminum base and the copper trace on top the LED is soldered to. The copper MCPCBs (Sinkpad, Noctigon) work better because they don't have that extra nonconducting (both electrically and thermally) layer between the LED & base.
So basically either I have to get 3 stand alone stars and afix them to a base piece like your avatar or…
No reason to use a 1-piece MCPCB in these lights, it's just cheaper and easier to do it that way in a mass production setting.
This is the stock internals, it already has a flat plate the 3x MCPCB is sitting on.
K eyeballing some XM-L2 on FT, might be going that route, just get a large washer or plate the same size, get those bases, epoxy em down and see if that works out
???
The light already comes with one, the big round flat thing under the 3-up MCPCB. You just put the new individual boards directly on top where the original was. You may need to drill some new holes for the wiring.
Not all of them have anything under the 3 up. One of my last ones simply had a large 3up that sat on the shelf. I flipped it upside down so I had a flat aluminum surface to put the sinkpads on then I epoxied washers onto what had been the top. I put about a dozen of them in then I epoxied the entire “pill” in place. I folded some aluminum foil to stick around the “pill” so it was in there very tight. This definitely helped transfer heat to the body of the light and out. Worked like a charm. De-domed and still had way more lumens than stock and it stayed bright much longer.
Can you guys tell me how to measure current on SRK style lights? As it really does not have a tail cap, but more like a head cap.
There most definitely is a tailcap.
Make something, anything, to contact the end of all 4 cells at once.
I just built one of these pretty much exactly like in the OP: XM-L2 T6 3C on 16mm Noctigon, 22 AWG silicone wire, shaved spacers, braided tailcap springs. This thing is as bright on low as my good SRK that runs almost 8 amps with an AR lens. On high it is almost the exactly equal in output and beam pattern to my MT-G2 ZY-T08 at 6.5+ amps, but warmer. This is a really impressive SRK style light.
Next step: 105C so I can get some lower modes in this thing. The PWM of the stock driver isn't bad at all, just wish it had a few lower modes.
This is posted in two different threads, because the two lights exchanged a bunch of parts...
I now have one with XML2 T6 3Bs on Sinkpads, one with 4Cs on Sinkpads, and this one with the 6x stuff, unknown cool white XML2s, copper-pinned 6-up MCPCB, and the kewl 'JB' driver. 8)
If anyone has a way to measure (or even estimate), I’d love to hear how many lumens these things put out.
Based on the MT-G2 comparison and match’s output curves, I’m guessing about 3000 lumens?
A good stock old-style SRK does around 1700-1800 actual lumens OTF, right? I have a stock one for comparison but can only do ceiling bounce numbers, should be able to give a general idea if the numbers from the stock one are known.
Basic ceiling bounce levels in lux, so just as a comparison to a known light, the stock CNQG SRK - stock driver, stock everything, the head's never even been disassembled. All lights using the same set of 4 INR18650-20Rs.
93.5 - stock 'Securitying' SRK clone, 3x XML cool white (unknown actual bin/tint)
100 - stock CNQG SkyRay King, 3x XML T6 3C
245(!!) - modified 'Securitying' SRK clone, 3x XML2 T6 3B
The seller does not send to Canada?
Can anyone find another source to purchase the same light?
Thanks!!!
The specific ebay listing we've been buying is listed in their 'US store', hence why it ships to US only. Try this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/161124217671
Also, look up 'ePathDirect' on Amazon. Same people.
Thanks for the quick reply comfy,
Which light is the best at the current moment to mod?
The link you just sent me does work. Excellent.
Is 3LED or 4LED better?
I see other people posting other ones…
Please advise, thanks in advance!
That's an awfully big can o' worms right there. You're just going to have to read and research and decide for yourself.
To me, the 3x lights have a nicer beam profile. I haven't ever had a 4x version. I do have a 6x, and while it is damn bright, it has a very messy beam with rings and artifacts and just general ugliness.