Maybe with VTC6 at 0s. It’s the worst way to try to guess calibration. You should use a regulated mode but I don’t have that LED in mine.
But again, is it fair to calibrate a light box with a small 300 lumen light and expect the box to be accurate in testing a 15-30,000 lumen monster? Radically different output between the calibration lights and real world lights.
My light box tested quite close when looking at the calibration light or similar small output lights, but correcting it to exactly match the calibration light costs several thousand lumens when testing a 23,000 lumen beast. Fair? Accurate? Who really knows… if I knew where to take Ham’r to test it on an actual sphere I’d do it and find out where reality is… but what company that owns a very expensive sphere is willing to test my creation? And so assumptions are made by necessity…
18k lumens would have to be pulling close to 60 Amps which is how I came to my answer. I don’t think 6 SST20 are going to pull 20A from a VTC6.
I have 17 emitters in my Ham’r build, based on a Q8 body. I’ve tested quite a few single cells powering the 17 emitters and have seen current draws well above 20A from a single 18650, even up to 28A. I didn’t have a VTC6 to test but a VTC5A pulled 26.2A. This was all 17 emitters though, don’t know what it would do with 6 SST-20’s.
I don’t know about this particular light and I don’t have one here to test but may soon. This one of my buddies down H-town way came with SST-20’s and I do believe I tested it before I swapped emitters, now if I can find that paperwork…
Floodier or throwier lights than you calibrated with, and perhaps even wider or narrower apparent sources (eg - multi-emitter) are known to affect measurements.
Also, dedicated light meters should be pretty linear, but I’ve seen data from tests of smart phone ambient meters showing they are usually far from linear.
By chance anyone know of any comparisons of D18 with XPL-HI vs SST20?
bexamous, I will be getting a D18 tomorrow and have 18 XP-L HI standing by, so I’ll know more tomorrow afternoon as to how the D18 performs with that emitter.
I got the pretty little golden D18 from my buddy today, charged up some older 30Q cells and took a reading as it stood, which is with the LH351D emitters I had swapped in and sliced. Then I got busy removing the Samsung’s in favor of Cree XP-L HI emitters. Went pretty well, replacing the TIR’s is something like playing Operation without the buzzer but an hour and 10 minutes after starting I have a D18 wtih XP-L HI emitters. Cells are almost charged back up, about to take a reading…
It would only show 8290 on the older 30Q’s with LH351D’s sliced… now with the same cells and the XP-L HI’s I’m seeing 10,360 at start and dropping quickly to 9600 then dropping more slowly to 9200. Seems weird that the HI’s aren’t making more than that. Beam hot spot is better, tint is more blue-white of course.
An update, I have been trying to figure out if I could get this D18 to do more, but it seems the issue is a sheer current draw problem. The XP-L HI emitters are drawing a whopping 43.9A at the tail of the cells according to my clamp meter, this using Samsung 25S cells fresh off the charger and watching turn on figures. Output is 11,430 lumens but of course it falls quickly from the start numbers. My light meter is now diffused such that the meter readings are actual with no multiplier, doing this put me a few percentage points under the calibration lights but oh well, it’s easy.
So the XP-L HI D18 is a 165 watt Tiny Monster! It’s pretty astonishing really, even if not making the numbers I was looking for.
I’m surprised to see that XP-L HI got more output than sliced LH351D.
I thinking to buy something powerful soda can flashlight but my concern is to have mounting screw. Also I like it to have 3P battery holder if I want to save little weight to power light only from one battery.
The idea is to make some holder for my bike. For now I used similar idea to hold my SP36 on handlebar with pipe clamps but it is little bulky.
From all photos here I can’t see if there is under the flashlight head any screw for that?
Another candidate for me is Fireflies Rot 66 Gen2 but I read it have problem with build quality.
Is Hanks website compromised in any way?
I get this warning from Malwarebytes:
It’s infected with a virus , oh my god ,it’s now spreading into the internet , run for your lives I tell ya.
If I understand correctly, there was a false positive a while back, but it was fixed… and some antivirus systems still list it. But I’d suggest looking in Hank’s thread or asking him directly if you want more details.
All W1 Red Osram CSLNM1.23
Are you all just solder blobing higher drain cells or where are you sourcing them? Ive only really been able to consistently find button top 30Qs in the US but maybe im looking in the wrong place.
Not sure about anyone else, but I generally just solder-blob some flat-top cells if I want to use them in a light with a contact ring, like the D18.
Usually I add a blob to the top, and then gently file it down a little bit to make the surface more flat instead of rounded. This should increase the contact surface area a bit, and might slightly reduce wear on the contact ring.
Does anyone know, which range the D18 in all combinations has?
hey which batteries yal’ll been using with your D18?
I’ve been using button top 30Q. Been working fine.