BrianK, Great suggestion… On my way out!
I got a cheap one, a HS1010A lux meter, and made sort of an “integrating milk carton”. It’s not high-quality, but it works well enough for my purposes. For info on making a nice integrating sphere, look at djozz’s threads on the topic.
This would probably be a good time for the weekly reminder to everyone that Hank of Intl-Outdoor designed the light, and Tom E wrote most of the firmware for it. I just fixed a few little things at the last minute and wrote a review.
I figured there would be a lot of reviews of this light, so I put “TK” in the title to indicate that it’s my review, but it seems people may have the impression that it’s my light. But no, it’s just my review. 
And an excellent review it is! Thank you Hank for your skill in bringing us this mastery of form and Tom E for the culmination of a most useful set of functions.
How hot does it get? Is it too hot to hold after 20 seconds? Is it doing a temperature step down? You can use the temperature check to find out the temperature in C after running it for a bit.
My first D4 was faulty and couldn’t get too hot to hold. It appeared to be half as bright as it should have been. But even then it could light up a room by bouncing it off the ceiling
No worries.
New toys? Well……don’t “keep” them to yourself.
I modded 4000K 90 CRI XP-L2 leds in my black D4 today. Starts at 4300 (djozz-)lumen with 3800 lumen at 16 seconds, then thermoregulation kicked in.
This was a U6 bin, a V6 bin should be 5400 lumen at start-up.
Not so happy with the tint.
More info in WDYMT
Thanks BrianK! Tempting. And I had seen it in stock on Ali……was just debating whether to wait patiently for MTN so I could get it in a week, and support them, or wait 3-6 weeks from China.
Using my Asrolux S1 clip on it at the moment….not perfect by any means, but holds it securely.
you are right about the small output difference. and i also notice Olight X7R or most Olight CW are slightly green tint. M3XS-UT has the worse greenish tint imo. And thanks to your input I requested in time to change to Neutral White - XP-L HI V2 3A, 5000K….phew that was close! :innocent:
The Solarforce clip is described as “stainless steel” but it’s a magnetic alloy.
Is there any feasible way to cut threads on the inside to enlarge the opening and make it screw down onto the flashlight?
Else, what’s the best way to grind/carve away on the inside diameter to make it fit over the flashlight tailcap threads?
The older “deep carry” solarforce clip is made of chrome plated steel.
Similar questions.
No need to cut threads as the area it eventually resides on is unthreaded.
I used a rotary tool with a sanding drum and slowly removed material until it just fit over the threaded sections.
It doesn’t leave a whole lot of the ring after enlarging so if you have to bias the cut in any direction I’d take a little more off on the side opposite the clip.
Depending on the thickness of the paperclip the clip may still rotate. If you want it to remain stationary you could flatten the paper clip with a hammer to get it down to size so the tailcap grabs it tight.
IMO nothing beats a screw-on clip, I’m looking at that option from all directions. Will spend too much buying tap, screws, deep-carry clip with holes…… flashoholism.
I’m getting both the XP-L options, I’ll let you know the differences. The CW I have so far is an animal.
Has anybody tried a Nitecore clip with success?
They sell quite a few kinds.
Oh, it gets hot but steps down within 30 seconds. There are a number of posts with members’ own accounts of D4 ‘behaviour’. I put o-rings on mine for the heat and a grip. Sorry to hear about you first D4… hope you get another.
Good share! I hope someone has the Nitecore model with the correct dimensions so they can tell us the clip model to purchase.
This morning, I crimped some gold, flat speaker pins onto a short length of 14 gauge Monster Cable and terminated the other end with dual banana plugs. Plugged them in to my old Craftsman 82082 DMM and the light tested at 11.9A. I see the light… and now the numbers too! :+1:
Version B from my MH12. As you can tell, it’s a little too thick for the groove but it works well enough for me so I’ve been using it for the past week. Other versions might fit into the groove. There’s not a sharp edge on this clip and it’s pretty heavy duty. Been on my work MH12 for about a year. Really deep carry on the D4. It sits about a 1/16 of an inch lower than the battery cap.
hmmm … 
Not quite right … still hunting
There are also rings on threaded posts which, if trimmed, might thread into a tapped hole on the tailcap.
Spare tailcaps would be very handy to fiddle with, if available.
I wish I could find a smaller version of this tripod-thread ring:
Any idea why Hank decided to use the V2 XP-L HI instead of V3? Doesn’t make any sense to me.