TK's Emisar D4 review

[noboneshotdog]

@FlyingJ

Here’s a question about the 219c in the pre 90 cri vs the 90 cri.

I have an older 80(?) cri 219c and bought a new one for a friend.

My older one settles down on thermal regulation with a LOT more output than the new 90 cri version.

Is this normal with this much less output for the small-ish difference in cri?

Or is there anything I can do to have the new one ‘level off’ at a higher output? Will changing the thermal config to higher allow it to settle at a higher output?

Any feedback is appreciated!

Yes, changing the thermal configuration to a higher level will definitely make the output settle at a higher level.

[FlyingJ]

@noboneshotdog

@FlyingJ

Here’s a question about the 219c in the pre 90 cri vs the 90 cri.

I have an older 80(?) cri 219c and bought a new one for a friend.

My older one settles down on thermal regulation with a LOT more output than the new 90 cri version.

Is this normal with this much less output for the small-ish difference in cri?

Or is there anything I can do to have the new one ‘level off’ at a higher output? Will changing the thermal config to higher allow it to settle at a higher output?

Any feedback is appreciated!

Yes, changing the thermal configuration to a higher level will definitely make the output settle at a higher level.

Thanks nobones! Just adjusted it and all is good in the hood now….

[hIKARInoob]

@noboneshotdog

@FlyingJ

Here’s a question about the 219c in the pre 90 cri vs the 90 cri.

I have an older 80(?) cri 219c and bought a new one for a friend.

My older one settles down on thermal regulation with a LOT more output than the new 90 cri version.

Is this normal with this much less output for the small-ish difference in cri?

Or is there anything I can do to have the new one ‘level off’ at a higher output? Will changing the thermal config to higher allow it to settle at a higher output?

Any feedback is appreciated!

Yes, changing the thermal configuration to a higher level will definitely make the output settle at a higher level.

If I’m not mistaken, the thermal sensor is not the most accurate, and may vary up to 15 degrees. So even if you have two D4 lights with identical leds and cells, then one could step down a lot faster than the other. I think output difference between 80+ CRI and 90+ CRI is minimal, and hardly noticeable unless doing A/B comparison.

[noboneshotdog]

@FlyingJ

@noboneshotdog

@FlyingJ

Here’s a question about the 219c in the pre 90 cri vs the 90 cri.

I have an older 80(?) cri 219c and bought a new one for a friend.

My older one settles down on thermal regulation with a LOT more output than the new 90 cri version.

Is this normal with this much less output for the small-ish difference in cri?

Or is there anything I can do to have the new one ‘level off’ at a higher output? Will changing the thermal config to higher allow it to settle at a higher output?

Any feedback is appreciated!

Yes, changing the thermal configuration to a higher level will definitely make the output settle at a higher level.

Thanks nobones! Just adjusted it and all is good in the hood now….

[hank]

I see no mention of anodization on the web page. Perhaps it’s simple paint?

[Biker1]

@hank

I see no mention of anodization on the web page. Perhaps it’s simple paint?

Here ya go

[The_Flashaholic]

I lit up the top of Emley Moor Mast with my VTC5A powered D4 XP-L 6500K on bonfire night, the top is 330.4m high and I was around 150m from the base. It was also raining hard.

That’s gotta be a 400m+ thrower on a clear night?!

[Biker1]

I have the D4 XPL-HI V2 3A.
With all the beamshots I took last night, I found that the usable throw was approx. 125 yards.
Many of the shots included some ambient light from street lamps but the 2 photos I posted above were in total darkness, which show the usable throw.
You’re getting 400m with the XPL-HI V3 1A. I don’t think there should be such a huge discrepancy between the 2 LEDs

[hank]

> anodization
I meant I see no mention what surface treatment is used on the D4.

But that’s a good pointer to an explanation on a BLF page here about the kinds of anodization.

And an old but tempting mention of ceramic coating being a possibility if someone organized a group buy.

Hmmmm, are bare aluminum D4s possibly available? See the middle pages of that linked thread.

Thanks.

[The_Flashaholic]

@Tixx

Anyone have a side by side with a floody optic vs standard with same emitters? Thanks! I have to make a decision on my XP-L HI V2 5D, 4000K.

5000k XP-L v 5000k XP-L frosted, I chose to get a diffused XP-L as it’s the brightest and coolest operating D4 and tbh I didn’t want it too floody!

Emisar D4 - 10623 frosted optic v 10622 clear optic

[The_Flashaholic]

@Biker1-

I have the D4 XPL-HI V2 3A.
With all the beamshots I took last night, I found that the usable throw was approx. 125 yards.
Many of the shots included some ambient light from street lamps but the 2 photos I posted above were in total darkness, which show the usable throw.
You’re getting 400m with the XPL-HI V3 1A. I don’t think there should be such a huge discrepancy between the 2 LEDs

The top of the tower is white, but it wasn’t lit brightly by the D4, but was definitely illuminated. I have the 5000K XP-L but didn’t try it.

[bunnicula]

@hIKARInoob

If I’m not mistaken, the thermal sensor is not the most accurate, and may vary up to 15 degrees. So even if you have two D4 lights with identical leds and cells, then one could step down a lot faster than the other. I think output difference between 80+ CRI and 90+ CRI is minimal, and hardly noticeable unless doing A/B comparison.

This is correct. My first D4 has a temp offset of 14° while my second has an offset of just 7°. Obviously the first one will stepdown faster than the second D4 since it already has a higher initial temp reading (I set both to max temp). I only noticed the “greenish” tint of the 80CRI when compared side-by-side with the 90CRI. But when used alone, I couldn’t observe any “greenish” tint. And the tint anomaly is only visible using a camera, couldn’t observe any tint difference between the two with my naked eye except that one has a significantly brighter hotspot than the other.

@Tixx

@alex64

Hi, this is a picture of two Nichia at 100% 7135 level (138lm). Carclo 10622 on the left and 10623 on the right. The 10623 is somewhat more floody but it is quite noticeable the loss of lumens.

Sorry for the bad quality, I am a very bad photographer and the camera of the Xiaomi Mi4 does not help.

Thank you!

Tried taking beam shots but couldn’t get anything useful. I would like to emphasize that the pin-wheel shaped (or squarish) beam of the clear optic is absent in the frosted optic. The beam from the 10623 optic is quite circular with none of the weird corners of the original optic.

[hIKARInoob]

@bunnicula

I only noticed the “greenish” tint of the 80CRI when compared side-by-side with the 90CRI. But when used alone, I couldn’t observe any “greenish” tint.

That was a pleasant surprise with the 90+ CRI 219C; it felt like a “comeback” of the famous rosy tint of the 219B, as the 80+ CRI was a bit criticised for being yellowish/greenish. A member here described the tint of the 80+ as “golden dawn” which I find much more appropriate, as I don’t see any nastiness in it. But yeah, 219C 90+ CRI is awesome… And so is the D4.

[Jtm94]

I added glo tape around the base of the TIR and it actually looks really nice. I’ll let people know if it decides to melt or catch fire. :smiling_imp:

[atbglenn]

Is there a video on how to do the temperature config mode? At the end of 10 clicks, all I’m getting is the battery level flashes. What am I doing wrong? A video would be a real help.

[strayz]

@Jtm94

I added glo tape around the base of the TIR and it actually looks really nice. I’ll let people know if it decides to melt or catch fire. :smiling_imp:

Please do, I think that is kinda cool.

[hIKARInoob]

@atbglenn

Is there a video on how to do the temperature config mode? At the end of 10 clicks, all I’m getting is the battery level flashes. What am I doing wrong? A video would be a real help.

If I recall correctly you’re doing fine. It first blinks current temperature. Keep holding it and the light will emit sort of a “buzzing” like a dim broken strobe; this is probably done to tell you you’re in temperature configuration mode. After this it will go into turbo while keeping the button pressed. The light will get hotter, and if you’re fine with the temperature you let the button go and it’s set. The light will blink the new temperature roof, and you’re done.

[atbglenn]

Thanks man. That worked!

[X31 (-X3-)]

@strayz

@Jtm94

I added glo tape around the base of the TIR and it actually looks really nice. I’ll let people know if it decides to melt or catch fire. :smiling_imp:

Please do, I think that is kinda cool.

I did it few weeks ago and intensily used my D4 since without problem;
There’s not so muc room for the tape to fall on LEDs in this tiny head

[ToyKeeper]

@hIKARInoob

That was a pleasant surprise with the 90+ CRI 219C; it felt like a “comeback” of the famous rosy tint of the 219B, as the 80+ CRI was a bit criticised for being yellowish/greenish. A member here described the tint of the 80+ as “golden dawn” which I find much more appropriate, as I don’t see any nastiness in it. But yeah, 219C 90+ CRI is awesome… And so is the D4.

It sounds really nice, having a 219b-like tint again. A small warning though… I hear the 90CRI version may heat up even faster than the 80CRI version, since it’s a bit less efficient but still uses the same amount of power, so it makes more heat. It may be a good idea to avoid using full turbo on that, because it could potentially get hot enough to damage the emitters.

I think the 219c 90CRI model might soon have a lower ceiling level set by the factory to avoid excess heat. Instead of 3500 lm, it might stop at 2800 lm or so.