I see no mention of anodization on the web page. Perhaps it’s simple paint?
I lit up the top of Emley Moor Mast with my VTC5A powered D4 XP-L 6500K on bonfire night, the top is 330.4m high and I was around 150m from the base. It was also raining hard.
That’s gotta be a 400m+ thrower on a clear night?!
I have the D4 XPL-HI V2 3A.
With all the beamshots I took last night, I found that the usable throw was approx. 125 yards.
Many of the shots included some ambient light from street lamps but the 2 photos I posted above were in total darkness, which show the usable throw.
You’re getting 400m with the XPL-HI V3 1A. I don’t think there should be such a huge discrepancy between the 2 LEDs
> anodization
I meant I see no mention what surface treatment is used on the D4.
But that’s a good pointer to an explanation on a BLF page here about the kinds of anodization.
And an old but tempting mention of ceramic coating being a possibility if someone organized a group buy.
Hmmmm, are bare aluminum D4s possibly available? See the middle pages of that linked thread.
Thanks.
5000k XP-L v 5000k XP-L frosted, I chose to get a diffused XP-L as it’s the brightest and coolest operating D4 and tbh I didn’t want it too floody!
The top of the tower is white, but it wasn’t lit brightly by the D4, but was definitely illuminated. I have the 5000K XP-L but didn’t try it.
This is correct. My first D4 has a temp offset of 14° while my second has an offset of just 7°. Obviously the first one will stepdown faster than the second D4 since it already has a higher initial temp reading (I set both to max temp). I only noticed the “greenish” tint of the 80CRI when compared side-by-side with the 90CRI. But when used alone, I couldn’t observe any “greenish” tint. And the tint anomaly is only visible using a camera, couldn’t observe any tint difference between the two with my naked eye except that one has a significantly brighter hotspot than the other.
Tried taking beam shots but couldn’t get anything useful. I would like to emphasize that the pin-wheel shaped (or squarish) beam of the clear optic is absent in the frosted optic. The beam from the 10623 optic is quite circular with none of the weird corners of the original optic.
That was a pleasant surprise with the 90+ CRI 219C; it felt like a “comeback” of the famous rosy tint of the 219B, as the 80+ CRI was a bit criticised for being yellowish/greenish. A member here described the tint of the 80+ as “golden dawn” which I find much more appropriate, as I don’t see any nastiness in it. But yeah, 219C 90+ CRI is awesome… And so is the D4.
I added glo tape around the base of the TIR and it actually looks really nice. I’ll let people know if it decides to melt or catch fire. :smiling_imp:
Is there a video on how to do the temperature config mode? At the end of 10 clicks, all I’m getting is the battery level flashes. What am I doing wrong? A video would be a real help.
Please do, I think that is kinda cool.
If I recall correctly you’re doing fine. It first blinks current temperature. Keep holding it and the light will emit sort of a “buzzing” like a dim broken strobe; this is probably done to tell you you’re in temperature configuration mode. After this it will go into turbo while keeping the button pressed. The light will get hotter, and if you’re fine with the temperature you let the button go and it’s set. The light will blink the new temperature roof, and you’re done. 
Thanks man. That worked!
I did it few weeks ago and intensily used my D4 since without problem;
There’s not so muc room for the tape to fall on LEDs in this tiny head
It sounds really nice, having a 219b-like tint again. A small warning though… I hear the 90CRI version may heat up even faster than the 80CRI version, since it’s a bit less efficient but still uses the same amount of power, so it makes more heat. It may be a good idea to avoid using full turbo on that, because it could potentially get hot enough to damage the emitters.
I think the 219c 90CRI model might soon have a lower ceiling level set by the factory to avoid excess heat. Instead of 3500 lm, it might stop at 2800 lm or so.
Thank you!
FWIW, I just received a 219C 90CRI version for a friend and have the 80CRI version. They are not very different in tint, you have to A/B them next to each other to really tell any difference. If anything, my 80CRI sample is a little bit redder and a tiny bit cooler than the 90CRI. The 90 is a bit yellower, as though the color temp is just a little bit lower.
As for output and heat, I can’t really tell a big difference in how fast they heat up. The 90 steps down a bit earlier than the 80.
When clicked on in the top of regulated (screw the tail off then on) mode, they both have pretty much identical outputs to the naked eye. EDIT: Well ok, the 90 puts out a little less light than the 80CRI. I’m not sure if this is apples to apples though.
I do notice that the lowest moon mode is indeed lower in the 90 than in the 80.
Has anyone seen or heard of any harm done to the emitters in the 219c 90CRI running in turbo? I was doing turbo tests side by side yesterday (but not forcing turbo back on) and the light seems to perform normally with it’s step down/protection.
> glo tape around the base of the TIR
Noting yet another good reason modders take the bezels off, just for the record.
I wish there were a couple of opposed flat spots machined on the bezel, to make using a regular wrench easier.
Gotta go buy a pipe wrench or two, I guess.
It’s always these darn necessary addon modifications that run up the total cost ….