When I finished my temp reset the readout is 70 from the firmware, but when I checked the measured value it was 57 immediately afterward. Guess it cools down fairly quickly, at least for this test.
The temperature measurement of this chip is not precise, an error of over 5 degrees is not unusual, it can very well that your chips reads high and starts stepping down even lower than the temperature read-out that it gives.
I was thinking the same thing.
Can anyone explain this behavior? Why would having a current meter in series with the battery change the performance of the light at ~120 lumen output level?
FWIW, newer firmware changes the thermal calibration completely, making it more accurate and more precise but probably also harder to explain.
Before:
- Click 10+ times and hold button down until the light is hot, then let go.
- Sets a thermal limit in internal units, but it’s very imprecise and the units can vary quite a bit from one light to another. They’re roughly 1 C apart from each other, but can be skewed by dozens of degrees.
After:
- Enter thermal config mode. In Anduril, this is four clicks while in temperature readout mode. In RampingIOS V3, if there is one, maybe it’ll still be 10 clicks from off. (?)
- Calibrate the sensor: The light should blink once, then “buzz”. Click N times during the buzz to tell the light the current temperature (room temperature) is N degrees. So, probably click 20 times or so.
- Set a thermal ceiling: The light should blink twice, then “buzz”. If you want to change the step-down temperature, click N times to set the ceiling to 30 C + N. So, probably click 20-ish times. Or just wait a few seconds to skip the setting.
The amount of clicking involved is a bit unfortunate, but it greatly improves consistency from one light to another, and allows fine-grained control over how hot it will allow itself to get. Also, it makes the default ceiling more useful since it can be calibrated, so the second value can usually be skipped.
And with any luck, maybe the factory can calibrate it so the user won’t have to. It probably adds less than a minute per light, to put a battery in and calibrate the sensor and then remove the battery. Then it should “just work” by default.
Newer than V2, which is what I believe is delivered on current D4s?
likely like this I would guess.
Also looks like the D4 could be flashed to do this, as they both use the ATtiny13, correct?
Yes, the D4 can run Anduril, and it has quite a few more features compared to RampingIOS V2. The MCU is attiny85.
Emisar D4 now available in white with a grainy surface:
https://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4-high-power-led-flashlight-p-921.html
It looks like Hank also change new style clip as well. I try at least 10+ different clips for D4, this is the best one for D4. Perfect fit!!
The Ti/Cu D4 paired with 219C’s is still not sufficient, if modded, to handle the heat. Of course, it’s small. And not really made to handle 25A at the tail. So I may have to look towards a different emitter to keep the heat down somewhat… 3964 lumens with 219C’s is too much, literally… burns the finger in about 7 seconds.
Even with the short tube and an 18350 it makes over 3000 lumens. Still get’s way hot. Very neat light though, and at around 2000 lumens at the top of the ramp it’s still completely viable… just watch out for Turbo if you dare go there!
(18ga leads, 20ga spring bypass on the driver, spring removed at the tail in favor of a copper button. VTC5A cell at 14mOhm internal resistance is a bear!)
Nice to see new colors. Still think the green was best, instant classic.
The Ti/Cu variant looks really awesome in short form…
The knobby knurling of the Ti tube looks and feels really good on the black D1s 
Looks like clear ano to me, not white
The new clip looks pretty promising. White anodizing is interesting too, and very uncommon, though personally I think I’ll stick with my green one. I should maybe upgrade that at some point; it has been getting neglected.
About the Ti/Cu model and heat… yow. Zero to finger-burning in 7 seconds really sounds like it’s begging for less-crazy emitters. I’ve done some things to improve thermal regulation recently, but there’s basically nothing the firmware can do about heat in just 7 seconds except maybe something totally draconian. It could limit turbo to 3 seconds or something, before dropping to 50% power.
FWIW, here’s the latest D4 build:
http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/anduril.2018-07-01.EMISAR_D4.hex
It should have better thermal regulation than older builds, since I made some significant improvements over the past few days. But it’s still not going to properly handle 25A of 219c full turbo in such a small host… because that’s getting dangerously close to a flash bulb instead of a flashlight.
It’s probably white, like the white Meteor. It’s a thing Hank does.
Way back when I was trying anodizing for myself I read up a lot on the process. They said that the anodization process makes honeycomb like “tubes” in the surface of the metal and the dye goes into these tubes and is sealed in during the final stage. The most common is black as the physical size of the black dye molecules fits into these tubes easiest. White dye is too large, they said you’ll never see white anodization because of the physical disparity of the tube size compared to the molecules of white dye.
It was also stated and confirmed recently that the anodization process aids thermal dispertion of aluminum, the dye process does nothing for this thermal dispertion, including black.
Does this incorporate the anduril ui as well as improved thermal for the D4, or just the latter?
My meaning for the anduril ui:
The UI has changed somewhat, there is a timer added for Candlelight and access to different configuration menus is better explained.
Yeah, I’ve always wondered how Hank made the Meteor white. Did that mystery ever get resolved?
Yes. But imgur’s copy is out of date. I don’t know who uploaded it there, but the only places to get up-to-date info on it are the FSM thread, my site, and the firmware repository, which all have the most recent copies.
http://toykeeper.net/torches/fsm/
https://code.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/fsm
FWIW, the improved thermal regulation probably won’t step down from turbo as fast as the original D4 firmware, but it’s much smoother and more configurable and less prone to oscillating. And the UI has a whole bunch of other features the original D4 doesn’t have.