There are quite a few differences… the code is completely different, a from-scratch new firmware.
About the moon before going to a higher level, that’s a UI hint which didn’t exist in RampingIOS. Basically, there are a few regular-mode actions available from off:
Hold to go to moon, then start ramping up.
Click for memorized level.
Double-click for ceiling.
But as far as the light sees, here’s how those events look:
Hold:
Button down.
Timeout expires.
Click:
Button down.
Button up.
Timeout expires.
Double click:
Button down.
Button up.
Button down.
Button up.
Timeout expires.
IIRC, RampingIOS responded this way:
Button down: Do nothing.
Timeout expires: Moon.
Or…
Button down: Do nothing.
Button up: Memorized level.
Timeout expires: Do nothing.
But Anduril responds a little differently:
Button down: Moon, immediately.
Timeout expires: State change to “on” state. Nothing visible changes. If user keeps holding, start ramping up.
And…
Button down: Moon, immediately.
Button up: Memorized level.
Timeout expires: State change to “on” state. Nothing visible changes.
Or for a double click:
Button down: Moon, immediately.
Button up: Memorized level.
Button down: Turn off LED, in case this is going to be 3 clicks or more.
Button up: Do nothing.
Timeout expires: Turn on at ceiling level and change state to “on”.
Basically, Anduril responds a little quicker by giving a UI hint which says “hey, there’s moon here, if you keep holding”. It turns on as soon as the button is pressed instead of waiting. And then it also does some other things without waiting for timeouts to signal the end of an input sequence. But it doesn’t know for sure what the user is doing until that timeout happens.
Thanks for explaining the details TK, I definitely appreciate it.
FWIW, if anyone is taking notes, sunset takes about 64 minutes on my light to completely set. The next challenge for TK is to implement the green flash. May not be too hard with the right emitter choice . . .
My green D4 now has 4 XP-G2 dies, in 5D+3D+3D+2B, with a clear optic and 18650 tube and clip. I put together the best working D4 parts I had to make one good host. The tint still seems a little bit off, but I like it a lot better than the 5000K 219c it came with.
There’s also a working 219c model, and a D4 head with its brain hanging out for development purposes, but that’s all the functional D4 I have right now without getting more parts.
I have a D1 incoming next weeks, I’d love to flash this new Anduril tunned for the D1. However I’ve never flashed an Attiny85, only Attiny13a. It’s the same procedure?
I was in your boat unit a few days ago, I followed this procedure . The only tricky part was getting the fuses correct, I needed help with that. Lots of nice people here to do that, but I was spoon fed and have not learned it myself yet so I can’t help with that part.
I got my very first Samsung LED’s today, for the D4 of course. I found 80CRI Samsung LH351D in 5000K tint at Digi-Key for $2.64 each, bare. (Edit: Pretty sure they’re U6 power bin… yes, confirmed… SPHWHTL3DA0EF4RTU6)
SPH WH T L3 D A 0 E F4 RT U6
SPH means Samsung Package High-Power,
WH means white,
T is product version,
L3 is the LH351,
D means it has a dome,
A means it’s the D series of LH351,
0 is a default place,
E means 80CRI,
F4 means Vf of 2.8-3.2V,
RT means 5000K,
U6 means 420-480 ranked lumens power bin
I put them on the original Noctigon thick copper MCPCB and screwed it down snug. With 20 Ga leads, it works beautifully albeit at a rather large loss of output. The beam profile is silky smooth, very nice with no artifacts and no tint shifts at first look. A bit of a lemon cast but not bad. Certainly better than the sliced and diced XP-L2’s.
Moon is at 0.1035 lumens
7135 level is 151.8 lumens
Default ramp ceiling is at 1245.45 lumens (edit: with the cleaned cell default ramp ceiling shows 2149.35 lumens)
Turbo is at 2370.5 lumens (correction, cleaned 18350 and again fresh charge… 4067.55 lumens!)
So I lost 1600 lumens. Surely it will be easier to hold onto….(this was due to a dirty cell, as shown immediately above.)
(It really takes 2 full minutes to get hot enough to be a problem in hand. Can probably set the thermal step-down to handle this…)
Ugh. I put a fresh charged Aspire 18350 in and tested it on Turbo and it makes 3812.25 lumens. I don’t know what happened with the previous Efest cell, charging it up to test again. This is more in line with what I expected to see from these. A little less than the XP-L2 but not by much. 45 lumens at this rate.
Whew!
So now I have to do more testing to find out what happened, why the discrepancy. Hate it when that happens! LOL
Edit: That Efest cell must have gotten dirty, the MiBoxer C4-12 was showing high internal resistance so I cleaned it, got the internal resistance showing 54mOhms and now it makes a whopping 4067 lumens ! Ok, So these Samsung emitters are pretty much over the top!
And that’s probably a good thing Stereodude, it lets you hold onto it. You should be seeing right around 3000 lumens at start up when that VTC6 is fresh.
Should you decide to swap the 22ga stock wires for heavier ones, bypass the driver spring and replace the tail spring with a copper button it may not remain the case…
Edit: Probably should note that the 20 seconds was with the light in my light box, surrounded by the foam that centers the light on the glass shelf. No air circulation at all. And of course, with the Samsung LH351D emitters at some 30% more output than stock with Nichia’s… (also, in the copper head of the Titanium D4)
Hi guys , i just joined this forum yesterday . i asked toykeeper some questions yesterday regarding the emisar d4 as im planning to get a few to use for work and edc . toykeeper directed me here . thought i would ask everyone here about it . i do apologize in advance if some of my questions seem stupid as im no expert on flashlights .
1)is the emisar d4 durable enough for work and edc(i work in construction so dropping it on the ground and puddles of water will be inevitable)
2) i usually use 250-600 lumens max on my previous lights so what kind of runtimes can i expect from the d4 if i use it that way(the 3000+ lumens of the d4 makes it nice to have even if i wont need to use it often)
3) how long of a lifespan can i expect from the light itself ? Eg. The led .
