Which led choice do you think is the best for a NW tint?
I have my D4 with XPG2 S4 3D 4850k but it’s very rosy and I don’t like it at all. My Nitecore MH20 NW has way better tint to my eyes
I’ve read that XPG2 4000k it’s also rosy and I don’t want the nichia option because of the heat and efficiency, which makes me think in the XP-L HI 5000k option, but I don’t understand why is offered in V2 3A instead of V3 3C :cry:
I don’t understand either why Hank went with the V2 3A. But if you know how to reflow you can always change them to V3 3C. That’s what I intend to do with my next one.
I know how to to reflow but I’ve read somewhere in this fórum that in this particular case with this MCPCB is more tricky, it’s very easy to make a short with the led
Hm. That’s not something that I’ve encountered yet. I don’t see how that’s possible?
I think That was djozz’s Lumileds luxeon V test. That led has larger footprint than this MCPCB. So with XP size or Nichia leds the reflowing is easy as other MCPCB-s.
I don’t know why Hank used V2 3A, but I’m guessing it was probably because it was what was available and because most people prefer A or D tints over B or C.
Personally, I find 3D to be the best Cree tint… in part, because it’s rosy instead of green. Your taste, of course, may differ. My preference is below:
I think I will end up with one of these as well, may swap in 219B R9080 leds in a mix of 4000k and 4500k. I did this in a triple and it is just an incredible tint and the CRI! Do not need the most lumens, it is about the tint for me. Otherwise, maybe XP-G2 5A3’s, I think I still have 4 of them left.
I dont think you would go far wrong with the 219c option, my samples(various 219c 5000k’s) all tend to be pretty much a clean white with no specific “tint” . I find certain “tints” can contaminate lighter colours…………….i dont like!
The g2 4000k is on the warm side, for me i enjoy 4000k in the evening when my eyes are more adjusted to warmer lighting(think typical house lights, maybe 2500-3000k).
Agree 100% TK, as always beautifully written 
I have to agree with ToyKeeper on this one, for sure. I tried all the variations in emitters I had and I like the 3D tint from Cree quite well. The V6 3D XP-L HD is a personal favorite, I am not as fond of the HI emitters most of the time.
There is more than one XP-G2, and more than one 219c,
the following LEDs, are not the ones I was replying about:
• XP-G2 5700k 70+ CRI: 3300 lm
• 219c [CCT?] 90+ CRI: 3500 lm
The question I was trying to answer is
What is the percent change in Lumens?
when going from:
Cree XP-G2 S4 5D ~4000K - Neutral / Warm White, 70? CRI, Lumens???
to
KD Nichia 219C 4000K CRI92, 3000 lumens
the difficulty in answering the question is there is a lack of complete CCT, CRI, and Lumen values for each LED
I’d sure like to be able to buy a multi-emitter light wih several different emitters, to get better color rendering.
I guess matching the voltage/current to the emitters is a problem. Could driver design make that work out?
I recall TK mentioning doing something like this. I’d love to see the spectra output.
This thread has too many replies. The obvious solution is to create that D1S review thread…
Does anyone know where I can find a really strong magnet that I can attach to the tailcap of this light?
I purchased one from Gearbest and it just wasn’t strong enough to fix horizontally without slippage. 
Try out Apex Magnets. They’ve got many sizes.
Maybe you can get the Nitecore LA10 and remove the magnet? It’s pretty strong (too strong for my taste actually). Light is only $18 with coupon, so you get a very nice light as well while getting a magnet… 
I’ve been buying some in this store of AliExpress! All have great quality, well packed and are pretty strong!
I’ve glued some in the tail (outside) of my lights (Manker E11 and Sofirn SP32) and they hang them on pretty well!
https://xiaozhufeifei-allmagnets.aliexpress.com/store/2346014?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.Sm3aMm
Tint mixing is definitely a thing to try on this compact quad. It can be tricky to get the mix right though… the easiest method would be to use four high-CRI emitters at around 2700K, 4000K, 5000K, and 6500K. Those may be difficult to acquire though. The last one I did was 5D, 3D, 3D, and 2B. It turned out okay, but not as nice as I was hoping.
Smaller spreads are possible too though… like, put together 4A, 4B, 4C, and 4D and it’ll probably turn out pretty nice. Or pick any intersection on the tint graph and use its four neighbors.
Just make sure all the emitters are the same type with the same voltage, like all XP-G2 or all 219c. Mixing emitter types doesn’t generally work unless they’re wired in series with a higher-voltage driver.
Yeah, yeah… have been kind of dealing with other things lately. Perhaps I should just put it up before it’s finished, even if it’s missing beamshots and such, because some information is still better than none.
You could try rubberize the against slippage.
In this video of a rolling stick they used hot glue
