Don’t laugh it could be the new OlKskool harkore thing, with an angry blue XP-E on alu star, hair thin wires and rattling threads :confounded:
Hmm, if the resistance is low enough perhaps the leds can be overdriven up to angry blue and then 200Hz-PWMed down to a nostalgic 80 lumen?
Yeah, the review initially said 10621 because I had the wrong information, but it was later corrected when we figured out what the optic actually was.
About the GITD tape, can it melt or catch fire?
Thanks for that info.
I appreciate it 
It has been known to happen. Not sure which types are safe and which are not.
The area where the tape would go, above the MCPCB and under the lens, about how hot does it get there?
3M 6900 Photoluminescent Film Product Bulletin, August 2015 shows:
Service temperature range:
–30°F to 200°F (–34°C to 90°)
Would I be good to go within this range?
Another concern I have is how would the tape affect the thermal dynamics of the light.
Dont know for sure but 200F is stove hot. I dont think the light would get that hot……. at least not while you are holding it :smiling_imp:
Duplicate post deleted.
I forgot that the max temp the D4 will get to is approx. 70°C/158°F before stepping down, so I’ll be good to go.
Today I found a small case for my mini screw drivers and guess what? It’s a perfect fit!
Scrape off the Tekton and put Emisar on there and you’d be good to go! Nice find!
Finally got my hands on my D4 (black, 219 90CRI), love this light!
One question- Is the O-ring at the front of the light supposed to be forward of the glass lens (between the bezel and glass) or between the optic and the glass?
Photos in reviews look like it comes between glass and optic, would the D4 not be more waterproof if the o-ring was between the bezel and the glass?
Eg. From front to back:
Bezel > O-ring > Glass lens > TIR optic
VS
Bezel > Glass lens > O-ring > TIR optic
Thanks all!
Mine came with the O-ring between the glass and the optic. When I took it apart to reflash, I moved it to put the O-ring in front of the glass. This seems to work fine, but requires a bit more care when tightening the bezel, and it can create oily-looking splotches where the glass touches the optic (at the 4 legs and center, not over any of the reflector cups, so it doesn’t affect the beam).
It’s really odd to me how you can take two glass lenses and wash them in soapy water, dry them off, you know they’re perfectly clean, right? And yet if you stack them and apply a slight pressure you will see that distortion or “oily” appearance between them. Another interesting test is to see how much light is blocked by stacking multiple lenses. Like, stack 10 and see how easy it is to read text under them. Makes it much easier to see that there are losses, multiple losses where lenses meet.
Try to get separation between surfaces if using a lens over an optic. Even if but a thread, get that bit of separation for clarity.
I don’t like leaving a plastic optic as the outer lens on a light. They get scratched easy, even from routine cleaning. And most of the spot optics have inverted cups at the lens surface, allowing dust and lint to collect. Much easier to keep a glass lens clean. Of course, that’s just my take on a daily carry problem…
Anyone experimented with bonding the glass to the optic with UV glue or such?
Yep, same story as TK there. Just got the wrong info initially, and even ordered an extra 10622 when I picked up my first D4, thinking the stock optic was the 10621. When it arrived, it was clear that the stock and “extra” optic were both 10622 versions (just edited the post you quoted above). Sorry for any confusion! 
Since I am here, a gratuitous family shot, and a black-out logo mod (via cold oxidizer):
