Hmmm……… I didnt see any tubes or clips from that link, even with the search function. What am I missing?
http://intl-outdoor.com/emisar-d4-high-power-led-flashlight-p-921.html
Please choose: pocket clip (+$2,50)
You can not order the clip or the tubes by itself, only in combination wita a light
It´s the same clip as the clip you get for the Astrolux MH10
I ordered one each for the d1&d4 when I ordered but the d1s didn’t have the option ,
After getting the d1s I noticed it has the same grooves so I emailed Hank & he’s sending me one ( $2.5+$2shipping ).
I just got my XP-L HI 3A today and I’m not sure why it is brighter than my XP-L HI 1A… I even swap batteries and it’s the same thing (Sony VTC6 and VTC5A)
The XP-L HI 1A is probably like a month old only… can it be that the LED bulbs are dimming out on me already?
Or does the lower light temperature (5000k vs 6700k) will appear brighter?
Whoa ! 
those are beatiful lights. Are these being worked on right now, by Emisar? Or what are these lights? And where can I get one?
I have an emisar d4 on the way, but from what I’ve read the shipping sloooow. Forgot to Say i orders from Intl.
So I will not have it in like a month then… 
Thanks
No strobe, but you can flash different firmware to add a strobe.
I get the impression there is a reason the clip isn’t generally sold with a D1S. If I understand correctly, it’s shaped in a way which makes it difficult to clip next to the D1S’s big head.
Does anyone know which version of the Nichia 219c is being used? According to nichia, the D340 is the highest bin version. I would hope that's the one being used. http://www.nichia.co.jp/specification/products/led_spec/NVSW219CT-E(3555D)Rnn%20R70%20R8000%20R9050.pdf Also does anyone know the reason why the more efficient XP-L HI V3 or XP-L2 V6 wasn't used?
D320 is the highest bin with CRI70.
The first batch used (probably, this was never confirmed officially) D240 CRI 80 which wasn’t a top choice. I believe I’ve seen that the current one has D240 CRI 90. If that’s indeed the case, this is the most efficient CRI 90 bin that I’ve seen.
Has anyone chopped/modified the pocket clip down to just use it as a lanyard attachment? It clips to the body pretty well.
Unrelated; does the thermal management monitor the light on all levels or just constant output? Eg. If I’m in a hot climate and using the beacon mode on turbo, will it overheat?
Thermal regulation only affects the regular output mode. It does not affect momentary or beacon.
Anyone know what glow gasket to order from Strong lights to just fit in? He has a few quads to choose from. I can’t find any ref on his facebook group either.
I got my XPL HI 3A and I’m back for the tree shots
To my eyes the XPL 3A is brighter to my eyes, but I guess camera says otherwise…
Please turn your phone or computer screen brightness up so you can see it better
I forgot to took a control shot but it’s dark like this one but with snow:
XP-L HI 1A on top vs XP-L HI 3A bottom:
Here is another one: XPL HI 1A(green) on top and XPL HI 3A(blue) bottom:
Thanks for those beam shots. It’s amazingly bright. I like the 3A shots a bit more because the colors seem more neutral.
I’m completely ignorant on these things so that’s good to know, thank you!
Well after the pictures and a couple of YouTube videos I just purchased one from Neal along with the 18350 tube, pocket clip and two 18350 batteries. I bought one Keeppower and one of the Geteed batteries which I have never heard of. I choose the Green with the Nichia 219ct emitters. Any info on the Geteed 18350 batteries? I also bought 2 Imren 3200mah 40amp batteries for this flashlight. Marry Christmas to me 
If the GT and the Emisar D4 show up before Christmas it will truly be a Marry Christmas!
So, I’ve been using my Emisar D4 on a daily basis since I got it. I’m still amazed with it and I’ll be for a long time, I guess.
However, I’d like to share a concern and leave a question/suggestion, specially for ToyKeeper regarding the firmware design.
I normally carry the light on the jeans’ or the jacket’s pocket, but I always have the same fear: that it accidentally turns ON and ramps till the max (I have it set for 52ºC, so, a bit far from its max , but still…hot!).
Normally, I leave it with a bit of the head unscrewed as it is more convenient to screw the head than the tailcap if a situation demands a quick action.
On the last days, due to the concern of accidental turn ON (on max or ramping), I’ve changed my modus operandi and I started using it configured with the momentary ON feature (4 clicks).
This allows to have a “momentary burst of light” and does not imply a set of 6 clicks to unlock, nor a head “re-screwing”.
Of course, this “method” can also have that accidental turn ON, but when there is no pressure on the button, it stops. (Yeah, meanwhile it can burn something, I know…)
This is where my question/suggestion for TK enters. I’ve been reading this and other threads asking for an option in the firmware to set a max output (through double click) different from the – total – max output (through ramping or other shortcut).
So, would it be interesting /feasible to have a similar setting for a “momentary ON” mode?
Meaning, would it be interesting or feasible to programme an option allowing users to configure a level for the momentary On (from 1% to 100%), different from the max output?
It is just like the thermal configuration, but acting mostly on luminosity level and only on the momentary On option. (This is, without interfering with the total max output or the thermal configuration settled).
My experience these last days lets me think that if I can have a momentary ON mode that I can configure for a, let’s say, 10% output level, I can carry the flashlight in my pocket, safely, without having to worry if it will ramp on or reach the hot max output.
With a set of X clicks (4, to maintain it) I can get back to the ramping mode again and all the other shortcuts, as it works now.
I don’t know if this makes sense, but it came to my mind and maybe it could be an option to carry the flashlight “ready-to-go” with some output level but safely, without the worry of “this is going to burn a hole”.
Feel free to say that this is not a good idea 
I accept critics 
That’s already implemented in Anduril. The momentary mode uses the ramp’s memorized brightness level.
Additionally, the lockout mode is faster / easier to access, and it doubles as a momentary moon mode. It checks the two ramp floors and uses whichever is lower. This allows it to be used for quick tasks without unlocking.
That makes sense to me MascaratumB, I find that the temporary during lockout being at moon is sometimes way insufficient. Nice in the middle of the night but there are other times/places/uses where being able to reset that level during lockout would come in handy. I’m using Anduril and the side switch light is configurable in two stages, both when the light is off and when the light is in lockout, so it would also make sense to be able to adjust the temporary level in at least 3 levels accordingly, in a similar way that the side switch light has 3 levels of independent adjustment.
Not sure how it would be configured though. Could be complicated with the other options that are already programmed. Maybe you could hold your tongue on the lens and press 47 times with your right thumb while holding your left foot off the ground and slowly spinning 4 1/2 revolutions counterclockwise and humming your National Anthem while winking with your left eye every other button press?
Well, I guess I didn’t read the other threads so well then :person_facepalming:
Thanks for the answer, and most of all, thanks for that option. Usability and safety are a big concern when using “hotrods”, hence my suggestion above.
I guess that the set of 6 clicks on the D4 is somehow “long”, although I understand that it is necessary.
But having a faster lockout solves the situation and that momentary moon will be great as well
Thanks again :+1: