Just got my D4 nichia. Order got shipped 1dec and today i got it.
I wasn’t expecting that, I’ve heard people waiting like 50days for shipping…
Also got my xtar vc2 + and Samsung 25R batteries today, great timing.
These batteries are a good match for the D4?
Also, I ordered a pocketclip. I tried the pocketclip on, but it was stiff as heck.
Could not get it off with my bare hands, so I had to use my edc prybar (dumb decision I know…)
So now the light has three very small scratches, thru the ano.
But it will be an edc, so it will get more scratches anyway, but this still sucked.
Has anyone also stumble upon this problem, with stiff pocketclip?
Samsung 25R are good cells, yes a good match for this light. Samsung 30Q, sony vtc5a and vtc6 work well(all flat tops of course).
Sure others will comment regarding clips, but yes read a few have scuffed their light a little removing/fitting clips. Unfortunately, emisar are not alone with easily marked ano……. There are other clip options, like the solarforce and even oveready/Prometheus(dark sucks), not cheap but imho the D4 is worth it! After all, the clip is a buy once cry once, can be used for years and years, swapped about. Plus its a good bit of insurance if you depend on a clip for EDC, by that i mean it should stay clipped.
Before I get the clip from intl-outdoor (same as the clip for Astrolux MH10) I tried different options.
The best one was the pocket clip from the Spark SL6. But this one was really really stiff
You can not move it, even a millimeter, no chance, and sure there were some scratches
But the good thing is, you won´t loose the light because of a lax clip :+1:
I just got a set of Imren 3200mah 40 amp batteries. Wanted to see how well they preform with the D4. I have a set of Imren 5500mah 26650’s for my Convoy L6 and they seem to work really well. Any thoughts on the 18650 Imren batteries? Are they decent cells?
! Thank you for the thread :) What a wast of money :person_facepalming: I think from now on I will stick to Panasonic, LG Samsung , Sony, Sanyo and Keeppower. Can’t go wrong with these cells :)
It uses 18650 because 18650 is the most popular and gives the most energy per volume.
18650, 2500-3500 mAh: 151 to 212 mAh / cm^3
26650, 3500-5500 mAh: 101 to 159 mAh / cm^3
A 26650 light is a bit unwieldy for EDC purposes and likely wouldn’t sell well. I could see the D1 using a 26650 cell, making it more of a tube light instead of a big-head light. I use mine in 18350 shorty form though. It’s easily the throwiest light of its size, and I find 1150 mAh to be enough for my mini-thrower purposes.
If I understand correctly, he was stuck at Lumintop’s factory for a while to deal with the BLF GT project, so he wasn’t at his office and wasn’t able to do some of his usual business tasks. And now he’s getting married and won’t be back for almost a week. After that though, he should be back to business as usual.
I’m not sure the XD series will matter for flashlight purposes. Cree makes regular, HD, HI, and now XD…
regular: normal density
HD: High Density
XD: Extreme Density
HI: High Intensity
The density indicates a ratio between the die size and the package size — how much bigger is the package? Regular XM-L2 gets an L-sized emitter onto a XM-sized package. The XP-L HD series puts the same “L” emitter onto a smaller XP-sized package. And the “XD” version would fit it onto a “L”-sized package (package and emitter are the same size). This doesn’t otherwise change the lighting capabilities of the emitter though; it only changes how closely they can be packed together.
The intensity indicates the surface brightness of the emitter, which is what matters in a throwy flashlight. The “HI” high-intensity series has the same emitter size as “HD” or regular emitters, but produces higher lux in a flashlight. What would be really exciting is if Cree made a “XI” emitter, or extreme intensity. But that doesn’t exist yet.
I don’t know, I’m only speculating, but I noticed that several companies started using what appears to be exactly the same clip around the same time. I’m guessing someone made too many and then sold them off cheap, and companies have been looking for ways to use them. But it’s not what I’d call a good clip. Too stiff, unfortunate shape, length doesn’t fit well, awkward appearance, … I don’t know what kind of light it was originally intended for, but the Emisar lights seem to work better with third-party clips.
Lumintop tried to use the same clip on the FW3A, and the idea was rejected. It looked bad and landed right where it would be hardest to actually clip on to anything.
As a general rule, never buy batteries unless they:
Are a widely trusted battery brand like Sanyo or Panasonic, or
Have good reviews from trusted reviewers (like the Windyfire 14500 cell, or Aspire 18350)
Pretty much everything else is either crap, or just a rewrapped major brand.
Even with good cells, it’s still important to make sure they match the device they’re intended for. Like, Panasonic makes some very good 18650 cells which physically fit into the Emisar D4 but aren’t really compatible and may even be damaged by the D4’s turbo mode. They’re meant for a different purpose. High-amp cells for high-amp devices, high-capacity cells for low-amp devices.
One thing I noticed with my d4, is that it’s flickering when ramping up or down, but it seems like it’s only flickering in certain places and always the same place(s), not all the time.
The battery wasn’t fully charged when I tried it. Just under 4.0v. I will try with the second battery I bought when it’s fully charged.
Please see post #2:
“blink when passing the 100% 7135 level, for reference”
The other blinks you find them while ramping up and down, one when reaching the top and the other reaching the botton of the ramp! :+1:
It doesn’t have to do with the batteries levels! When it starts blinking and stepping down by itself on luminosity, there you have to recharge the batteries :sunglasses:
As I mentioned above the “blink when passing the 100% 7135 level, for reference” is the “middle” blink you mentioned, that is not actually on the middle. The flicker on the middle and the blinks on bottom and top levels are all supposed to happen.
Just for curiosity and as example, when my D4 (XPG2 S4 3D) blinks in the middle, after that the tint seems to change a bit turning more rosy/white than the yellowish/white before the blink.
Toykeeper gave me some explanations about passing the regulation and the tint change somewhere over here.
Ok, i think i understand what you mean, and i Will read the post you linked.
Sorry for the confusion, im having a hard time understanding from time to time. Even though i can read what it says. My brain wont work with me.
Thanks !
No problem mate
It took me a while to understand the ramps, the blinks, all the stuff this light does/ can do
I suggested the post #2 (#1) so that you can see the general overview! Some answers are there, others are not
Above all the things, let’s enjoy this light :sunglasses:
It could be the normal blinks, or it could be something else. It should blink at the bottom, the top, and once in the middle. The two ends are there to make it clear that you’ve hit the end and can let go of the button. The one in the middle is more like passing a mile marker, to give an idea how far you’ve gone.
Any other blips in the ramp are not supposed to be there, and could indicate a weak ground connection or something.
:person_facepalming: I think from now on I will stick to Panasonic, LG Samsung , Sony, Sanyo and Keeppower. Can’t go wrong with these cells :