Holy cow! I had no idea theres two different versions of the NCR18650B.Thats so confusing. How do you tell which one is which? The label description on the battery are the same in the photos. GB also dont have any descriptions under my orders. Do both versions have the same amp rating? If so, what is the point of making an unprotected version if it doesnt offer any performance benefits?
The protection circuit slightly reduces the voltage under load, which in turn slightly reduces the power available to the flashlight. In addition, the unprotected version is 65mm long, but protected versions can be up to 70mm long. Some flashlights don’t have enough space in the battery tube for a protected cell.
The choice is basically a bit more powerful and a bit more compact versus a lot safer.
In my opinion Emisar D4 is not a light for people who don’t (yet) know such basic things as “what is the point of a protected cell”, “how can I tell a protected cell” etc.
It’s an enthusiast flashlight and you are advised to know the basics of cell safety etc before buying it.
natural or black anodizing can be made much harder than colored anodizing. That is true for any anodized aluminum part. Colored is Type 2 max while black or natural can be type 3, only type 3 is hard anodized
I just confirmed that the NCR18650B that I’m using are the unprotected version using info on HKJ’s website. Still not sure why it is as bright as the VTC6 since the NCR18650B is rated at 5A. I will download a ceiling bounce lux meter tonight and test it to confirm.
Does anyone have any experience with the newer NCR18650BM protected cells that are rated at 10A? I couldn’t find any review on it. Gearbest sells it for far less than elsewhere. https://www.gearbest.com/batteries/pp_667269.html?wid=21
Hi, I have one Emisar D4 and several 18650’s:
8 Panasonic NCR18650B
4 Sony VTC5
2 Sony VTC6 from Gearbest (12:money_mouth_face:
I expected vtc6 would be the best…… but they last less than ncr and and get less lumen than vtc5.
Maybe VTC6 I bought are fakes. So I bought 4 VTC6 from Ilumn. When they arrive I’ll do some test to be sure what performance vtc6 have. I hope they are better than the 2 I have now.
D4 question: I’ve read somewhere that somebody removed the O-ring between the lens and optics and then placed it between the head and lens instead.
Is this done to improve the water resistance of the light? Is this a good idea or is it better to leave the light in the stock configuration?
If you’re using the D4 at full power regularly, that sounds about right. The NCR18650GA has both higher capacity and a lower sustained/peak output, which will cause it to last a fair bit longer at max, but with noticeably lower output on max. The VTC5A has a higher peak and sustained output, so it gives you more light on max, at the cost of shorter runtimes. The VTC6 is sort of a middle ground.
BLF A6: (edit 01/31/2018, it wasn’t on brightest setting the first time I tested hence not much difference between the two batteries)
US18650VTC6: 200 lux
NCR18650B unprotected: 165 lux
Got mine, Green with 90CRI 219Cs and 10623 floody optic. It’s my first e-switch ramping UI light and I can say, Toykeeper knocked it out of the park with the UI. It’s simple to use (no groups or group switching) yet very feature-complete, and even little things like the “quick flashing” when lockout mode and tactical modes activate show the care that has gone into it. I also like the very simple yet easy to remember shortcut to moonlight mode and the small flash when switching between the regulator and the FET. What can I say, I’m in love.
A frosted optic reduces output by only ~2-3/strike> 0.5, but it makes the beam look significantly dimmer by spreading the light across a wider area. Tiny change in lumens, large change in lux.
I don’t know how you arrived at that figure but choosing a raw Ti finish and a non-Nichia emitter will only cost about $98.00 which is still relatively expensive.
