Got my green xpl-hi 6500k. Got hot very fast on turbo with samsung 30Q. I’m impressed how bright this small light is. It has a mode memory which is a plus. Love it.
Got mine today too. My eyes cant tell a whole lot of difference between the 30q and the purple efest 18350 on high. 4 What kind of lumen loss are we talking here? Either way, this thing gets hot!
IIRC, those cells should produce very similar numbers. Not identical, but also not enough to be visually distinct.
Recieved my 3D over the weekend. Very nice, bright,and smaller than I expected.
So default Mem is 100% 7135, and I can access Turbo without changing that by double click on and double click off, correct? Is there any way to do that with moonlight?
From off, press and hold for moon. The “hold” portion of that is just an extra little bit of time after the press, it’ll probably start ramping if you continue holding… it’s just a way to get the light to come on in moon with some assurance, so it doesn’t blind you.
But Mem is now set at moon, correct? Was wondering if there was any way to back out to 100% 7135 without unscrewing batt cap.
Edit: I assume I just need to ramp or unscrew from there, but thought there might be a trick.
Finally my D4 is shipping, sorry for bothering you Mr Hank 
Now 2 weeks more to wait. Man you guys are Lucky!!
I should have ordered the XP-G2 i prefer a rosy tint rather than the pure white, but i never own a 219C before so let see if i like it or not.
Do you need different optics for the XPL swap?
Hey, thanks for this! I’m learning all kinds of things I didn’t know.
I just got the D4. I am using Sony’s Lifepo4 batteries = SE US18650FT. Sometimes the D4 flashes three times after a few seconds when I use the turbo / 100% output, and then it SUDDENLY drops to around 1xx lumens after the flashing. But sometimes it is normal when I use turbo, it steps down gradually, not a sudden drop of output. However when I use some cheap Chinese made Lifepo4 batteries, it is 100% flashing three times after a few seconds in the turbo mode and then suddenly drop to 1xx lumens.
Does anyone know why?
I know the light should have low voltage protection but it should not activate at around 3.2V? And very strange sometimes it works but sometimes it does not when I use the Sony Lifepo 4.
Welcome to BLF 
I’m not sure why you use a LiFePo battery in the D4, the D4 is designed for li-ion batteries that have a higher voltage. It is not surprising that you run in low voltage problems.
Thank you Djozz
It is because I have many of the Sony Lifepo4, I like these cells and I am still waiting for the VTC6…. :money_mouth_face: I just do not understand why sometimes it works but sometimes it doesn’t. I guess there is something to do with the temperature of the battery. Maybe when the battery is at lower temperature the voltage should be lower when the light is driven at more than 10 amps….
Yes! Got mine! I’m glad I ordered all three colours, as they are all equally beautiful. But yeah, I definitely go with the green one first. Built quality is very nice indeed. The writing on the tailcap is extra nice with the special font and how all the words are outlined. This light is pure quality that makes a whole bunch of other single 18650 lights redundant. 
(But I do know I’m just not a ramping guy)
menufunc, LiFePo4 typically has lower voltage than the batteries this light is designed for. It isn’t expected to work correctly with those. Try one of the cells listed for it at Mtn Electronics:
Highest Possible Output:
- Efest Purple 3000mAh - Flat Top | Button Top
- Efest Purple 2500mAh - Flat Top | Button Top
- LG HE4 2500mAh - Flat Top | Button Top
- LG HG2 3000mAh - Flat Top | Button Top
- Samsung 25R 2500mAh - Flat Top | Button Top
- Samsung 30Q 3000mAh - Flat Top | Button Top
- Sony VTC4 2100mAh - Flat Top | Button Top
- Sony VTC5 2600mAh - Flat Top | Button Top
- Sony VTC6 3000mAh - Flat Top | Button Top
Longer Runtime:
- LG MH1 3200mAh - Flat Top | Button Top
- Sanyo NCR18650GA 3500mAh - Flat Top | Button Top
HE2 should be there on the Highest possible output too, as they are the 25R counterpart from LG.
Still undecided here from Nichia or the XPL HI 3A. Afraid not from he temps, but from the disappointment someone spread all over about the nichia being very dim (perceived) and about 3A being a strange tint in all its spectrum rendition
I wonder what a user like djozz would buy if he had to left the light untouched/ unmodded
“perceived very dim”
this must be either an exaggeration or lack of understanding what very dim means.
As for 3A being strange, you want high cri from it, you wont get it. It is better than cool white and better than 3B and 3C (unless you like yellow-greenish tints), it’s a good tint.
I think I’ll slice the dome on my 4*219C when mine arrives.
I’ve made that in my triple 219C S2+ and the light does throw better than with dome on.
Slicing is not as efficient as dedoming but is far more easy on 219C
Received my grey D4 219c today( earlier than I actually expected ……only been around a week). WOW comes to mind , straight away nice ano/design with perfect clean optics. Luckily I had a vtc6 at hand to try. Really nice white beam as expected, heat…….geez hot hot hot super fast, maybe 15s or so(did not count). Then step down, heat building step down again. I am sure I counted 3 step downs within a minute(again not counting ) could have been 4 step downs. Either way ,what impressed me as much as the crazy bright compact light, how it mangaged to rain in this crazy output under control. Step downs are obvious, but at this output no wonder.
Ramping as been said, it’s just works beautifully………perfectly smooth ramping in a perfect amount of time. Early days (well hours to be exact) and there is nothing I don’t love already . Yes silly bright, but still a very useful tool on lower levels. When you get bored , whack up for grin mode. To nitpic, slippy body ,but still feels nice in hand. Kind of a can’t put down and play around with feel to it(yes the light). Also maybe a pocket clip, but not a fan of the clip on clips( just cheap and move about).
I need dark so I can properly check this little beast out.
@TheBo
Tint is a matter of taste, I for instance, love the 219c 4000k and 5000k and hate the rosy xp-g2 and greenish tints. As for output, I don’t know how perceivable the difference between emitters in this particular flashlight and performance level compare, but in a 7135*8 driver, a 219c is still mostly as useful as an xp-l hi
If anyone’s interested, I also swapped out my MCPCB with Richard’s quad board.There have already been quite a few posts and reviews of the Emisar D4, so I’m going to keep mine to things that people haven’t already covered extensively.
First of all, I purchased an Emisar D4 in Green with the XP-G2 in the 3D tint. I was told that the tint would be “rosy,” but to my eyes, it looked more pure white leaning slightly blue. There was definitely more color variation in the corona as compared to the 219C 4000k.
I did any emitter swap by swapping in Richard’s quad board (with the rotated LEDs). As promised, the board is a tiny bit shorter, so I had to add an extra o-ring to the lens in order to make everything sit snugly. Note that with Richard’s board, the optic actually sits flush with the front of the light (without the lens part) which make it a bit harder to remove than with the stock board, which causes the optic to stick out a bit.
The actualy swap was very easy to do. Wires fit through the middle hole without any issue. Thermal pasting looked good underneath the board.
As for a comparison of the two boards, Richard’s definitely produced a rounder corona, but it wasn’t completely round either. There are definitely still noticable artifacts, especially if you turn the light (see beamshot comparisons below). Installing the medium spot optic smoothed things out a bit more. It was tough to discern differences between the beam shapes of the two boards with the medium spot optic installed (Rotated 219C Stock XP-G2). As expected, the medium spot optic produces a frosted look out the front as compared to the small spot.
Comparing the 219C to the XP-G2, the XP-G2 has a slightly more pleasant tint, but is less consistent, casting a bluish corona. The 219C leaned a little bit greenish. This will vary from sample to sample as the 219C on my Manker E11 was very pure white. The 219C (obviously) renders colors much better, but also heats up ridiculously fast. Installing an Aspire 18350 (instead of a Samsung 30Q) actually helps a bit in this regard as the maximum number of amps the light can pull is reduced.
Here’s a few videos showing some beamshot comparisons:
XP-G2, Stock MCPCB, Stock (Carclo Small Spot) Optics:
XP-G2, Stock MCPCB, Carclo Medium Spot Optics:
Nichia 219C, Richard’s MCPCB, Stock (Carclo Small Spot) Optics:
Nichia 219C, Richard’s MCPCB, Carclo Medium Spot Optics:
Also, the weight for the Emisar in 18350 form is 50 grams. With an Aspire 18350, it’s 74 grams.
Please let me know if you have any questions!