I’m guessing it was the Convoy holster. I’ve got a couple, they fit my S2+ and various other 18650 tube lights.
Same beamshots, now with XP-G2 NW emitters…
Yup, thats it, thanks Lazy-R-us. :+1:
Finishing up a order now with Convoy store. Will the s2+ pocket clips fit the D4 ok, or is the Armytek Wizard v3 clip a better choice for d4…?
Well I’ve been playing with my new Nichia D4 for the past day and am enjoying it a lot. It’s a whole lot of light for a heck of a deal…
I have a bunch of Zebras to park it next to, but I just have one question:
Will the thermal protection really keep this thing from hurting itself? (I’d like to leave the programming as it is but man!)
I’ll normally run the 18650GA in it and sometimes the Efest Purple IMR 18350.
I kinda want to stress test it because I’d rather discover any issues up front but won’t if it will likely get damaged…
Any feedback is appreciated!
Definitely like this XP-G2 NW better when comparing the fireplace pics. Thanks!
Keeping in mind I’m using a 20700 cell size…
D4 with 219C
Sanyo A 21.14A for 4391.85 lumens
Sanyo B 17.60A for 3915.75 lumens
D4 with 319AT
Sanyo A 20.22A for 3677.7 lumens
Sanyo B 13.85A for 3015.3 lumens
D4 with XP-G2 NW
Sanyo A 13.77A for 2987.70 lumens
Sanyo B 10.21A for 2176.95 lumens
Edit: D4 with XP-L dedomed
Sanyo A 16.75A for 3657 lumens
Sanyo B 12.42A for 3243 lumens
Edit II: D4 with XP-G2 S4 2B on Dsche mcpcb
Sanyo A 11.63A for 2259.75 lumens
Sanyo B 9.47A for 1738.8 lumens
These last 4 are on a TPAD, so there are Noctigon, MTN and TPAD board represented here. The beam on this is squared off, like the Noctigon. I will probably put my last 4 XP-G2 S2 2B on the Russian quad board and leave it like that. Still thinking about the green XP-E2’s for a short tube… money money money, where does it stop? lol
* Just to add that I’ve now tested all 4 quad mcpcb’s that I know of, with everything from XP-G2 to Nichia 319 emitters. Several comparison shots that you should be able to click on and compare in a new window side by side for a better idea of the variation induced.
Lol Dale, I bet watching you tinker with flashlights is like watching a beaver furiously working to get his dam/sanctuary built before winter comes. I wish I had your skills when it comes to being able to alter or change absolutely everything in a flashlight to something different and still have it work.
I’m rusty, the neck aches and my arm is almost useless. But it’s still fun to mess with em. 
1,217 posts since I last checked TK’s thread here and just got the new and massively improved TK tweaked UI after having bought 3 of the first pre-order batch that had no working thermal and caused me to have one seriously hot pocket at a stop light early on and I can say that these improvements are spectacular but honestly I can’t go back and read 1217 posts to find the answers to my questions, and they’re simple so all of you will know right off the top.
First question is the thermal reg. toggling, 10 clicks and hold one second, I get 4 blinks followed by 5 blinks so that is great, now I go again with the 10 clicks and a one second hold and I get exactly the same blinks.
So besides the fact that I now can actually watch the light as it steps down where before there was no such think as thermal regulation at all and if it’s in shorty mode and in your front pocket and your stopped at a stop light and suddenly things are getting very uncomfortable and then an all out emergency bail out of the vehicle due to severe heat in my right pocket, this improvement is wonderful, but shouldn’t one, or couldn’t one of the toggle sequences be perhaps something like 4 & 4 blinks indicate On, and then 4 & 5 blinks for toggle thermal Off…?
Or, is it really that way and again I just have messed up UI maybe… it works though regardless and that’s what’s important and I can see the step down so it’s only a question, seeing thermal management makes me darn happy believe me.
2nd question is temperature reading off of bat check, am I correct to understand while reading the blinks if I’m seeing say 3 blink then 9 blinks that the reading is 39 Celsius or 102 or so Fahrenheit.
That’s it all my questions, and REALLY such a Great job TK, now this is a really great light and my right front pocket and all the surrounding hardware in that vicinity thanks you as well, that doesn’t sound quit right, oh well, you’ll know what I mean, I love lights but not that much, really.
@toykeeper Thank you so much for this fantastic review (and also for your Bistro Firmware) :+1:
That sounds great. Can you say an approximately date for release this light?
Regarding temperature setting, click it ten times then after the 10th hold it down in it will blink a bunch of times. Keep on holding and the light will turn on period after the light gets to a temperature that is desirable to your hand let go of the button and it will blink a bunch more times and shut off.
As far as I understand you let go of the button once the heat is at a point that you are happy with.
But you do have to just keep on holding the button after the 10th click for quite a bit for it to turn on and kick in.
I hope that helps. If someone can explain it anymore concise way please do.
If Dale keeps posting pics I’m going to have to get one of these. Not good, as I’m trying to limit myself to either this or the FW3A, and I’m definitely getting the FW3A…
@T18
Toykeeper edited all changes in the first post. And she wrote in #158
- Fast-click 10+ times, then click&HOLD
- Light blinks out the current temperature limit in degree Celsius.
- Let go of the button, if you want to exit now with no changes. Otherwise KEEP HOLDING.
- Light ‘buzzes’ for two seconds. Let go during this time to set limit to the maximum (~70°C). Otherwise KEEP HOLDING.
- Light goes up to turbo.
- Hold until you feel it’s too hot, then let go
The light then blinks out the new temperature limit in °C, and shuts off.
Your 4 + 4 blinks should be 44 degree Celsius. As I said it should be in the OP
Dale has been doing too much and is back in his collar. Perhaps there is one last trick for today, then it’s definitely time to take meds and chillax. 
Edit: Check post 1486 above for the XP-L dedomed numbers.
Good idea.
Joey, I bet it DOES look funny… me sitting at a table strewn with flashlight bits and pieces, collar tight, straining to look down at all the stuff in front of me, soldering iron and heat station hot and ready…… but you know, a guy’s gotta do what a guys gotta do, right?
I wear one of these…
Figured y’all would rather see this pretty lady than my ugly mug. 
Edit: I also wear bifocals. Not a very accompanying companionship, I can assure you!
Ok, so my green D4 is now in a place it can stay and I’ll be happy, for a while… it has XP-G2 S4 2B emitters on the Dsche quad star. (last one of those I had, last of those emitters as well)
As can be expected, lumens and amperage numbers vary considerably among all those I tested here…
D4 with XP-G2 S4 2B on Dsche quad star
Sanyo “A” 11.63A for 2259.75 lumens
Sanyo “B” 9.47A for 1738.8 lumens
So, in terms of heat… I’ve gone from 21.14A draw to 9.47A draw, obviously one’s much hotter than the other.
And in terms of output, I’ve gone from 4391.85 lumens to 1738.8 lumens, again a massive margin for the same light, just changing out emitters and with the same 2 cells tested.
I have plenty of full blown hot rods, this one can live for a while at 9.47A and we’ll see what I think of it long term. 
NOW, I’m calling it quits for the day. hahahahaha
Yea good call Dale, we would not want to scare anyone’s children that might be peaking at the screen!
In the first post TK says that the driver does PWM in 2 stages, one for the low modes with pulses of 350mA and the other for the high modes with FET. However there is a 7135 regulator which is a constant current regulator. How can there be a regulator and PWM for all modes? Does it just limit the pulse to 350mA?
My interest in the question is that a 7135 just converts to heat the power that doesn’t reach the LED, increasing inefficiency, so I’d like to understand when it operates and when there’s just PWM with FET.