TK's Emisar D4 review

Any blip, blink, flash,? to denote the max setting of 70°c has been reached so no further ’holding in button is needed in a no protection mode. Or do you mean one cant even hold the light to even get to the 70°c max set point…?

Not trying to be contrary, just trying to give feedback on your excellent D4 UI, Let me know if its not what you want and I’ll stop.

There is no blip or anything to indicate that it is at or above 70 C in calibration mode.

On a newer firmware, I used a totally different way to set the temperature limit — go to calibration mode, then click N times to set a limit of 30 C + N. I’m not sure which method is better, really — hold until hot, or click a bunch of times. Clicking is more precise, holding is probably more intuitive.

Looks like D1 is on the market now in China, international purchase should come soon.
Someone posted their newly arrived D1 【图片】d1到了【手电吧】_百度贴吧

Hm, everything is posted before.

  • You can set the the brightness of strobe: Ramp to a desired level and than use strobe.
    But I can be wrong, I have at the time to many UIs in my head: NarsilM, D4, Skilhunt H03, Spaghetti Monster and shitty S42.
    I definitely read to much about UIs.

- TK lists a few changes which are not in the diagram here: FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public - #1205 by ToyKeeper

More UI help please?

I repeatedly get the thing stuck in “Tactical” (button hold for full brightness) and can’t figure out how to make it quit doing that.

nevermind

Four Clicks faster, that’s the ticket.

so,which to choose? xpl is hot not so fast…faster is the nichia version…iam right?whats the runtime for xpl turbo mod?sorry,so many posts here…dont see it.

How’s this cheatsheet looking?

More questions Re: the UI…

I had asked a question that was answered with the above chart. So if the actual voltage is displayed in flashes, is the actual temp displayed in flashes as well? What I mean, 2 flashes then 7 flashes means 27°C?

The flicker at transition from regulated to hybrid, if we get off the button immediately are we still in regulated mode, or should we back it down a hair to get back into that?

Just an observation, this light will drain a cell pretty quickly when playing with it when testing/learning it. I suspect charge life will be much better in actual use.

Thanks!

Can’t tell you the aggregate runtime for the XPL, but the light gets too hot for my tender hands in maybe 15 seconds, but that’s configurable.

Maybe that’s what you meant? It does use up a cell pretty quickly in turbo.

I asked for current draw at lowest output and turbo awhile back just to get a rough idea, and I don’t know that anyone knows. No one got back to me anyway. But clearly you won’t be running this light very long in turbo and the light simply isn’t designed for it.

CRX, the beacon mode uses the last-memorized ramp level, not necessarily 30%.

in fact i still dont understand how many modes this light has…and whats the lower mode after the turbo…:slight_smile:

Cool, missed that.

it does not have modes you can choose… it has a RAMPING brightness…

it acts like a dimmer switch you might have on a wall at home

you can turn it up, or down, or leave it somewhere in-between, but you can’t choose any specific number of lumens, and there are no specific Low, Medium, High, Turbo mode steps you can repeat by clicking one, two, three times…

turbo lasts about 30 seconds, if you don’t turn it off it gets hot and turns itself down
it looks like this on a chart: (data thanks to @CRX)

this will give you some idea what happens if you start the light on turbo and just let it manage itself (based on heat)

the above examples are all about what happens if you turn on at 1000 lumens or more, and just leave it there

you do not have to do that
you could turn it on at the lowest mode, turn it up a little, and just leave it there for a much longer time

it also remembers where you turned it off, so next time you can just click to get the same brightness…

The current draw varies from about 7mA at the lowest level to 20+ amps on turbo. The upper end varies quite a bit depending on your emitter type and battery type and battery health. It basically just pulls as much power as possible.

The green is paint, not hard anodization, right?
I tried using a Convoy deep carry clip, which positions the light perfectly (emitter up) on the belt,
but grips not quite well enough and its prongs scraped off the green in the groove when I pulled
the light into my hand quickly at a bad angle and the clip slipped off the tube.

Good, now I can quit worrying about scratching it.

The green is anodizing with dye.

However, clip-on clips are generally going to scratch almost anything they’re used on. That’s mostly just normal. :frowning:

I expanded the hole in one of my SolarForce L2 clips so my D4 would be able to clip onto things. It’s not ideal, but I like it better than clip-on clips. Also, I had to put a bit of wire (a paperclip) in the tailcap so it would make contact again with the clip installed, and I think it reduced the maximum amps a bit. Paperclips aren’t great conductors for high power.

Thanks. Yes, I figured the upper limit would vary quite a bit, but that’s more than I guesstimated that the current draw would be.

Using a 30Q (@3.0a), if I did the math right something over 400 hours at lowest and maybe 10 minutes of turbo?

Here’s a cult product Hank should produce: Beryllium Copper paperclip. :smiley:

I apologize for not understanding that it appears the answers to my questions were already there. Believe it or not, I had read the entire thread….I just didn’t put 2 and 2 together to understand that raising the thermal limit with the 10 clicks would allow it to NOT ramp down so much. I just took that as a ceiling that caused initial ramp down…and didn’t understand that it would continue ramping gradually until it reached the set temp.

Regarding the 2 blinks….I had read it…but after I got it in my hand…didn’t realize that’s what they were talking about.

Thank you all for your help. Now…just waiting for MTN to get the Convoy clip back in. :+1:

I apologize for not understanding that it appears the answers to my questions were already there. Believe it or not, I had read the entire thread….I just didn’t put 2 and 2 together to understand that raising the thermal limit with the 10 clicks would allow it to NOT ramp down so much. I just took that as a ceiling that caused initial ramp down…and didn’t understand that it would continue ramping gradually until it reached the set temp.

Regarding the 2 blinks….I had read it…but after I got it in my hand…didn’t realize that’s what they were talking about.

Thank you all for your help. Now…just waiting for MTN to get the Convoy clip back in. :+1: