TK's Emisar D4V2 review

The button release timeout was changed from 24 frames to 18 frames, where each frame is 16 ms. So, from 384 ms to 288 ms.

The hold timeout remains the same though, at 24 frames.

Ok. So some other good firmwares are like this:

GuppyDrv - 8 clicks to config - Great!
H17F - 8 clicks to config - Great!
Guppy3Drv - 10 clicks to config - Even Better!
Emisar D4 - 10H to config mode - Great
Biscotti - 10+ clicks to config - Great!
LD-4 drivers - 10+ clicks & password option to config - Superb!

Anduril, RIOS - 4 clicks to config - Too easy to access and change the levels/ modes.
Then you either hit the button again once in config or have to wait for the sequence to finish if you realize.
Most annoying.

I’ve asked you why but you’ve given no logical reasoning why you’re so adamant to have it set up like that in Anduril.
I could be wrong, I know I don’t think like most other folks here but it makes no sense to me.
Personally I would have ramp config set to 10H clicks, keep it out of the way and use the 4 clicks from off for something used more often.
It’s your puppy and I won’t say any more on the subject but thought you would be open to sensible suggestions on improvement.

I’m not sure why it should be harder to configure.

For the most part, I’ve avoided requiring menus at all. Most configurable settings are done by going to a mode and then holding the button or maybe doing a short click sequence. The idea is to make things as easy as possible to access. A few settings weren’t easily handled that way though, like the ramp details, the beacon timing, and the temperature limit. So those things went into menus, and the menus were mapped last after all the other functions.

With some new functions added lately, I think it might make sense to push the menus back another step or two, so the easier functions can have shorter shortcuts. But I’m not sure why it would be desirable to push them away farther than necessary. Long click sequences are kind of obnoxious, and it seems like a good idea to avoid them when possible.

On clicky-switch lights like Guppy, H17F, Bistro, and Biscotti… there is no “hold” input, and quick taps change the brightness level. On those, it is common to navigate through many levels quickly while cycling to the one needed for the current situation. So the config mapping gets pushed back to “maximum number of levels” clicks, at minimum… and that’s usually 8 or higher. It’s unfortunate, but there isn’t a workable way to reduce it. It is inconvenient out of necessity.

Another good reason to make an input sequence long is to hide it or make it difficult to do by accident. For example, 13H for factory reset is something which takes a pretty deliberate choice to activate. It’s inconvenient on purpose to keep people out. The config menus aren’t meant to be hidden though; they’re meant to invite people to change things.

Some config should be protected with a double sequences with an Hold at the end of both.
First sequence with an H, then buzzing. The fast flickering should make a muggle to stop clicking, “what is happening, what did I do wrong ?” but someone who’s willing to change the config settings purposely will perform the second sequence during the buzzing to enter the config menu.

Any time some muggle grab my anduril light they enter in ramp config within 20 seconds accidentally. I think Aux led control can be replace with the ramp config . like 4C and 4H to set aux leds and 7C to ramp config, beacon config…etc.

Aux LEDs could be used to help make configuration changes, and to help know the current setting. Would be better than tap-dancing on the button or waiting for 42 blinks

Thanks for your answer. I can understand your reasoning too.

It’s just in the case of the mode settings/ output levels, I usually set a light up to my liking then that’s it.
Very seldom is the configuration changed and if I do want to change things around it is no big deal entering an extended deliberate sequence to do so.

As ZozzV6 also said, giving an Anduril light to an unfamiliar will usually end up in the settings being messed up on return as they just keep on a clickin’ away. 10H or so would take them much longer to figure out :smiley:

I think it is more confusing to learn colors but in battery check mode it could be useful to blink Volts and tenths with different color. Like 4.2V is 4 blinks green and 2 blinks blue.

that's why the optic nerve would be great

choosing settings on app

one command on flashlight to make it listen

then the phone screen blinks the values.

not possible to mess with the settings without app

one procedure for everything

We’ve been working every hour except sleeping since last week to build the flashling kits.
Hopefully, the reflashing kits can be for sale without too much waiting.

I am in contact with Hank in the last two days to help him with flashing kits also :wink:

What will be included in the kit? All parts? Or just the pogo key?
Looks good!

The programmer, cable, and pins are all included in the kits, all you need you to
do is to take the kits out from the box, connect it with you PC, install the software, reflash ,done.

Yes, thank you very much.

Everything for better lights :innocent:

Thank you for your quick and detailed reply!

Hopefully, the reflashing kits can be for sale in a week time.

Now, I would like to write an instruction to explain the steps on how to reflash,
a video would even be better, but I’m afraid my English is not good enough for the instruction video,
I hope some native English speakers could help to shoot the video.

Perhaps a lock on configuration mode so when we get it set up like we like it it could then be locked to prevent accidental entry? 22 clicks to lock out Configuration. (Ok, so I Love Titanium! [and have always been a Bob Hayes fan])

Ti is a little excessive, Neon would do.

In the example above it was more to show how color auxs could improve a UI like NarsilM. The bad part of NarsilM is that you have to sit there counting blinks while holding the sheet … buzz 1 blink… buzz 2 blinks … etc. If you lose count you have to start again, plus if you change the wrong setting it is not always obvious.
(I do not say ‘bad’ as an insult, it is inevitable to have this type of configuration process when we have only one input and one output).

Arduril does not function exactly like this - however there are parts of the UI which require counting blinks and so forth, so I think something similar could apply.

4.2V being displayed as 4 blinks green, 2 blinks blue …. (or same for temperature) yes, I agree good idea.

With time I think UI designers will think up dozens of uses for colored aux lights.